advice on 50k-100k LMM's...
 

I thinking about purchasing a good used 2500HD with 50-100K miles on it. Is there anything in particular I should be concerned with when purchasing with this type of mileage on it? Any particular maintenance items I should be concerned with? Andy advice would be greatly appreciated.

(PS - I have been going back and forth between purchasing used LMM or Cummins 6.7)


Thanks,
Clint

what are your plans for the truck? the LMM can be pretty much stone dead reliable if you leave it stock(deleting the DPF helps with reliability as well)

Mostly just a good reliable driving truck that will get decent mpg and will do the occasional pull (boat, hay, cattle) when needed. I'm wanting to find a good used 2008-2010 2500HD as to avoid the "new" vehicle price premiums.

So I've read a little on DPF deleting with the LMM's. This is what I have gathered thus far:

- get some sort of exhaust bypass
- get a tuner to kill the ReGen process. (EFI Live?)
- Unplug the EGR or use tuner?

I'm a n00b on this stuff so still learning. Please feel free to correct and steer me in the right direction. :)

Is it possible to put things back to stock if a warranty claim is needed?

XRT Pro and DPF Delete pipe is a great way to go for the price.

Luke

H&S makes some pretty good DPF delete kits, that remove the stock exhaust and replace it with a free-flowing 4" unit, and also fool the ECM into thinking there is nothing wrong with the DPF operation

You can block the EGR with a Blocker plate, but you need to eliminate the EGR code the ecm will throw, which can be done with some tuners


EFI live is awesome if you know how to use it, but it takes some skill and patience to get it right

What is your budget for mods?

I would like to keep mods under $1500.

Is there any difference other than sound between the 4in and 5in exhausts?

So with the tuners, can you have a tune for maximizing mpg and one for performance?

the only difference in sound with a 5" is that it is a little deeper, but for the price premium you gain no extra power, its only worth it if you plan on going big for power

heres what my plan is for you to keep around your budget

pre-tuned DSP5 ECM from duramaxtuner.com(has five on the fly selectable tunes from stock maximized for mileage to a 417hp race tune) these are the tunes I run and I love them, and if you want to return it to stock at some point you can keep your stock ECM and swap it back in and the dealership would be no wiser
Stock Trans - Stock Turbo DSP5 ECM | DURAMAXTUNER.COM

4" magnaflow exhaust

and autometer boost and EGT gauges and A-pillar

that should work perfectly for you, and be around your budget

Hope that helps:rocking:

Thank you for the info BriteWhiteRam! I will for sure be looking into the Stock Trans - Stock Turbo DSP5 ECM.

So with the more expensive tuners you can read check engine codes correct?

What about EGR deleting/blocking?

if you looked at that page on duramaxtuner there is an option for egr blocking:tu:

you can do a lot with efi live, however you can also buy a cheap code reader from most auto parts stores

IF ITS A 4X4 , CHECK CONDITION OF BALL JOINTS. I JUST DID MINE AND IT WAS $750 WITH THE FRONT END ALIGNMENT! THE TOP A FRAMES GET REPLACED BECAUSE YOU CAN'T POP OUT THE BALL JOINTS. THAT WAS AT 100K MILES .