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-   Chevy/GMC Duramax 01-04 LB7 (https://www.dieselbombers.com/chevy-gmc-duramax-01-04-lb7/)
-   -   LB7 DIY, Maintenence, Codes, and TSB's. (https://www.dieselbombers.com/chevy-gmc-duramax-01-04-lb7/38420-lb7-diy-maintenence-codes-tsbs.html)

2500HeavyDuty 12-14-2009 11:37 PM

LB7 DIY, Maintenence, Codes, and TSB's.
 
Here is a list of a few DIY's, maintenance, codes, and TSB's that are posted on this site. The links are here to help the members find and answer frequently asked questions that are often posted in this section of the site. If they are anymore important ones that you think should be added please send a PM or shout out.

Computers and Control Systems Locations: https://www.dieselbombers.com/chevy-...locations.html

Fuel System Diagnosis - High Pressure Side: https://www.dieselbombers.com/chevy-...ssure-side.htm

LB7 Water Pump replacement: https://www.dieselbombers.com/chevy-...ement-diy.html

Cabin Air Filter: https://www.dieselbombers.com/chevy-...ir-filter.html

2500HeavyDuty 12-16-2009 12:29 PM

/me opens

jdcanvas 01-03-2011 12:00 PM

have 01 with code p0089 fule preasure regulater performance .? also p0234 overboost ? help

41merrell 11-25-2011 01:30 PM

I have a code p0087 fuel rail pressure, and p0234 overboost.
It wont start without start fluid, starting to believe its the injection pump.:scare2::scare2::scare2:

shaggy77 10-11-2013 07:45 AM

anybody know the back lash setting an sequence to adjust them by on 2003 chevy dmax

diesel_2121 04-01-2015 06:30 PM

I have a 2002 gmc duramax, it'll try and fire up, but just won't. Replaced everything on the motor. I heard it could be the TCM, but don't want to spend the money and it not be that. The Injectors are aftermarket and are just fine. Had them checked, everything on the engine has been checked. Need help please

LB72004 01-19-2016 05:10 PM

LB7 2004 Has hardly no heat
 
When driving down the road, plenty of time for truck to warm, it is putting out luke warm heat, control set on 90...no leaks, fluid is full,had radiator replaced about 4 months ago, havent tried flushing heater core yet but will try if you guys think it will help, also thought maybe the thermostats, just seeing what you guys think maybe a cause, new to the site and thanks in advance for any help, temp here in Georgia high 20's to mid 30's if that helps any on the heating end of it.

qgcrim01 02-10-2016 05:44 PM

my heat wasnt working right and I got tired of it. It was 20 degrees where I live in TN and decided it was the Tstats. Drained some coolant, took old out and replaced and works great now. Takes me long enough to get from home to work (which is about 5 minutes) for it to heat up.

LB72004 02-10-2016 09:40 PM

Thanks
 

Originally Posted by qgcrim01 (Post 1108235)
my heat wasnt working right and I got tired of it. It was 20 degrees where I live in TN and decided it was the Tstats. Drained some coolant, took old out and replaced and works great now. Takes me long enough to get from home to work (which is about 5 minutes) for it to heat up.

So both therms and it works perfect, is that what ur saying? Mine fluctuates with engine revs, on the hey and give it throttle and it warms up, stopped or at a light, goes back to Luke warm or hardly anything. I guess it wouldn't hurt to just change them anyways, did you use aftermarket or genuine, I'm not to good for aftermarket so I might just give it a run, what temps did u get?

qgcrim01 02-10-2016 09:45 PM


Originally Posted by LB72004 (Post 1108263)
So both therms and it works perfect, is that what ur saying? Mine fluctuates with engine revs, on the hey and give it throttle and it warms up, stopped or at a light, goes back to Luke warm or hardly anything. I guess it wouldn't hurt to just change them anyways, did you use aftermarket or genuine, I'm not to good for aftermarket so I might just give it a run, what temps did u get?

My heater will run you out of the truck now. The rubber gaskets on the inside of both of mine that hold the coolant out were non existent anymore. I used some factory recommended ones from Oreilly's. If I'm thinking correct they were between $40 and $50 a piece.

qgcrim01 02-10-2016 09:47 PM


Originally Posted by qgcrim01 (Post 1108264)
My heater will run you out of the truck now. The rubber gaskets on the inside of both of mine that hold the coolant out were non existent anymore. I used some factory recommended ones from Oreilly's. If I'm thinking correct they were between $40 and $50 a piece.

Temperature wise I haven't seen more than 190 degrees. It takes 170 for my edge juice with attitude to come alive and I haven't seen much more over that. Last summer I could barely get it to 180 and I can hit that in no time now.

LB72004 02-10-2016 10:14 PM

Thermostats
 

Originally Posted by qgcrim01 (Post 1108264)
My heater will run you out of the truck now. The rubber gaskets on the inside of both of mine that hold the coolant out were non existent anymore. I used some factory recommended ones from Oreilly's. If I'm thinking correct they were between $40 and $50 a piece.

What are the chances you rem the part numbers, is yours an lb7, what year? Thanks for the info!!!

qgcrim01 02-11-2016 11:04 AM


Originally Posted by LB72004 (Post 1108266)
What are the chances you rem the part numbers, is yours an lb7, what year? Thanks for the info!!!

Don't remember the part number right off hand. You'd just have to call a parts store and find out. Mine is a 01 lb7. Took about 30 minutes to do the job. Just make sure you put coolant back in.

LB72004 02-11-2016 11:51 AM

Coolant
 

Originally Posted by qgcrim01 (Post 1108303)
Don't remember the part number right off hand. You'd just have to call a parts store and find out. Mine is a 01 lb7. Took about 30 minutes to do the job. Just make sure you put coolant back in.

Did you loose a lot or you drained it lower than therms so it didn't get everywhere....sorry to keep dragging this out!!!

qgcrim01 02-11-2016 02:25 PM


Originally Posted by LB72004 (Post 1108306)
Did you loose a lot or you drained it lower than therms so it didn't get everywhere....sorry to keep dragging this out!!!

No problem. Glad to help out. I just drained it out low enough so it was underneath the t stats so it wouldn't make to much of a mess. Loosen the bleeder screw on the top of the housing before you do anything to let the air out.

LB72004 02-11-2016 04:09 PM


Originally Posted by qgcrim01 (Post 1108315)
No problem. Glad to help out. I just drained it out low enough so it was underneath the t stats so it wouldn't make to much of a mess. Loosen the bleeder screw on the top of the housing before you do anything to let the air out.

Last question...where did u drain it from..bottom of radiator? And just collected to re use?

qgcrim01 02-11-2016 08:20 PM

Drained it from radiator drain plug. Put some new in when I got finished cause the only drain pan I had was for oil. And honestly I find most of my stuff out on YouTube. I'm sure there is a bunch of guys here that would crucify me for saying that but YouTube has been a life saver for me with my vehicles.

LB72004 02-11-2016 09:56 PM

It's hot now!!!
 

Originally Posted by qgcrim01 (Post 1108326)
Drained it from radiator drain plug. Put some new in when I got finished cause the only drain pan I had was for oil. And honestly I find most of my stuff out on YouTube. I'm sure there is a bunch of guys here that would crucify me for saying that but YouTube has been a life saver for me with my vehicles.

I love YouTube for that reason....swapped stats out and I could smoke a pig in there now....damn it's hot...15-20 min and it was done. Thanks for the help, I'm pretty mechanically inclined but diesels as much as I love mine scare the hell out of me!! Thanks again!!!

qgcrim01 02-11-2016 10:22 PM

No problem man. Maybe one of these days you can return the favor. Glad your heat is working good Now:tu:


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