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-   Chevy/GMC Duramax 01-04 LB7 (https://www.dieselbombers.com/chevy-gmc-duramax-01-04-lb7/)
-   -   Replacing Duramax LB7 Injectors 01-04 tips and hints (https://www.dieselbombers.com/chevy-gmc-duramax-01-04-lb7/25030-replacing-duramax-lb7-injectors-01-04-tips-hints.html)

durallymax 04-25-2011 07:43 AM


Originally Posted by 2500HeavyDuty (Post 738567)
no you dont need to, you can fit a pry bar under then to pry the injector out

i use a large punch stuck int he holddown bolt hole and pop the injector out that way. same way the factory tool does it

dakota33812 04-28-2011 05:57 PM

replacing the injector cups
 
was cking out what you did is there anythig i need to remove the cup or boots and how long did it take

thanks mark m

2500HeavyDuty 04-28-2011 06:34 PM

dont remove them if they dont pop out, it will make things easier

crstat2 06-14-2011 12:13 PM

Thanks for the great write up VERY helpful

darrelnott 07-14-2011 10:06 AM

Lb 7 Injector change
 
What an excellent write up with pictures. As I have an lb7 with 175,00 miles on it and it is ready to have another set of injectors installed, set 4, do you have this write up in a file I can download and print? Want this with me as I tackle the job. If so please email to me.

darrelnott@yahoo.com

2500HeavyDuty 07-14-2011 10:49 AM


Originally Posted by darrelnott (Post 773775)
What an excellent write up with pictures. As I have an lb7 with 175,00 miles on it and it is ready to have another set of injectors installed, set 4, do you have this write up in a file I can download and print? Want this with me as I tackle the job. If so please email to me.

darrelnott@yahoo.com


nope i do not, sorry

Midgard 12-01-2011 08:56 PM

Hello all newbie to the forums. Have to say great post and TY. After reading this thread 3 times I have afew questions. I have an 03 2500 HD that is getting lots of fuel in the oil. I had the injectors replaced 16 months and 20,000 miles ago by a local shop for almost 6000 (should have gone to chevy then) Now took it to chevy and they say I need injectors 5400 have no smoke no engine lite. Could it just be bad seals on the fuel rails? Can I change just the fuel lines and not the injectors? Could someone please explain to me how bad injectors will let fuel in your oil?

Thanks in advance
Mid

02DURAMAX 12-02-2011 01:29 AM

It seems like your injectors are still fine i havent really heard of anyones not smoking but still needing injectors. You could have someone check your injector balance rates and that would give you a better idea of what they are doing. When mine went out it would smoke alot at an idle and was blowing alot of smoke when i took of from a red light or anything. It was really bad before it started making oil. If it was me i would check the injector balance rates first and see if they are bad. If not then it is probably a seal some place. I hope this helps you good luck.:c:

2500HeavyDuty 12-04-2011 08:36 AM

You can check the balance rates and the return fuel rate to see if they meet specs. On the lb7's the torque spec on the injector line fitting going to the top of the injector can be iffy because if you tighten it too tight it can twist the injector even when its held down and cause q small rupture in the return line seal. And then you have a leak.

tatmetoo79 12-07-2011 11:17 AM

It's time
 
This is a great post, thank you for your time that you have put into this. My truck is an 04 with around 160k and to my knowledge the injectors have not been replaced. The truck had 50K when I got it and it started to smoke a about a year later. I took it to the dealer and they couldn't find a problem. Tonight at work I found a tread elsewhere that spoke about the 7/200,000 and I know I am outside that window now. I have the classic symptoms of bad fuel injectors i.e the blue smoke at idle and take off from a light. The truck runs great, and get 17 mpg in and around town on average and last trip I took I got 22 mpg and that was doing 80mph most of the way. Aside from the blue smoke I love the truck and it runs great. Other maintanence done has been front end work and I have a ball joint popping now that needs replaced. Other than that it is stock and used to go to work and pull a boat durning the summer. I haven't had any tests done but there is a good place here in Indianapolis that I can have them check the injectors and I can start saving for the purchase. I do now change my stock fuel filter every 10k with oil to keep it simple. FYI prises on fuel filters have gone through the roof. I baught some in bulk and got them for about 22 ea if I recall. They are WIX, the exact same as NAPA gold just not stamped as NAPA. Otherwise these filters run about 45 bucks at the parts store. Anyway, I read all the treads on this post and had to sign up to the site afterwards. I couldn't let this great information get away from me. It's late and I am rambling now, just feel much better about doing this myself. I have done much bigger jobs before but it's different when it's not your money when stuff breaks. Alright, I am gone. For now. Ahhh one last thought, what do you think about front end leveling kits?


Today I just adjusted my torsion bars and I think I raised it about 2 inches. From the ground to the fender lip, I have 39" and 38 in the rear however; I do have about 600lbs in the bed at the moment. I did NOT bottom out the adjustment bolts still have about 1/2 from bottom of bolt head to the frame area that it screws into. I am going to get an alignment done also mainly because I need to replace a tie rod. I guess my question is, did I lift it too much and should I get longer shocks. Sorry if I am posting this under the wrong area. I am new to the site and still trying to figure it all out.:humm:


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