i will ask him if he can do it thanks.
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you could helicoil the holes too then you wouldnt have to drill starter oversize. helicoil is a threaded insert to repair damaged threads. theyre strong too if im not mistaken gm helicoils the headbolt holes in the block on the northstar engines when the crappy headgaskets puke
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what do you think it would cost to do this and how many hours of work./ thanks!!
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Big block and small block chevs in some cases had a bracket on the end of the starter to combat flexing and stop breakage of the nose cone. You need to check the depth of engagement of the starter pinion gear in the flywheel teeth I believe you should have about an 1/8th inch between the top of the starter pinion gear to the valley of the flywheel teeth when engaged.easiest way is to disconnect batteries and remove the starter solenoid so you can manually engage the gears. If the gear is too far out shims could be added to the outboard side of the starter. If it is too deep shims can be used as normal to move out the starter. In some cases I have had to file the mounting face of the starter to move in the pinion gear could also have it machined.
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There been time that had to cut shims in half and just put it one one side of the just get little turn to make mash right and that would out side bolt
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Originally Posted by mrmarkman
(Post 847921)
what do you think it would cost to do this and how many hours of work./ thanks!!
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these jobs will make starter tighter? and not eat more starters up?
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if the bolt holes being sloppy and not having a bracket attached are the cause then it should
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OK THANKYOU
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