To Buy or Not to Buy...
 

I'm looking at a 1994 Chevy Silverado 1500 Custom Straight Axle 6.5L Turbo Diesel. Its got 11" Suspension, 3" Body, 180k miles, 10k on trans, dana60 front, 14 bolt rear, 4.10 gears,
44" michelins on 20" thug teflon coated rims, max e-tork programmer, 2 new 1000cca batteries, alternator, starter and fuel pump

extras: line-x bottom half of truck including bumper, fender flares, mirrors, bedrails, westin brush guard, cb/whip, drop-in toolbox, custom steel rear bumper, kc reverse lights, roll cage w/4 kc lights, all rear lights are smoked

trucks also coming with a diesel motor (still trying to get what it is-has bad crank bearing) that will come with the truck. guy wants 7k for it. worth it or not?? i'd be selling my gasser for it...DD either way. any input?

DD with 11" lift and a solid axle swap Id pass

even tho i only live 5 minutes from work?? i was contemplating dropping to a 9 or 10" total lift. i shouldn't have to change too much should i? whats an average cost to drop a suspension for a smaller one?

Take the body lift off and run some 38's... 44's and 410's not a good combo, then maybe. Just gotta look and see how well its built and no cobbled together... Just cause u own a welder doesnt mean u can weld if u kno what I mean. If I lived 5 mins from work I'd walk :D

i could run the 38's and 4.88's and shouldnt have a problem right? why would you say drop the body lift and not the suspension? is body lift ineffective or just cheaper then dropping suspension?

think I would pass on it that kind hight on it sure there something on it bent, broken or out wack

anything over 6 inch lift for a dd would be a deal breaker for me

he said the only things wrong is it doesnt have a front drive shaft and he tried to recharge the A/C and didnt bleed the lines. said once the lines are bled itll be good. i dont use A/C much so if it doesnt work it isnt a big deal to me

i run 9" lift as it is on my k10

to me 11 inches is just to much bad on drive, front and rear ends trans and even motor but that just what i think

im up for criticisim by all means. i definitely want a lifted truck. i mean even parting this thing out would get me a lot of money. but if this ends up being a truck that is more hassle then its worth ill look for different stuff

The body lift is the easiest way to lower the truck some. To do suspension requires new springs and costs money. Id like to see pics so I can see how the lift was done. Sounds like a poser mobile since its lacking the driveshaft. Also theres no way to bleed the lines... Its a sealed system and my guess it theres a leak somewhere or the compressors shot. PICS! :pca1:

heres a couple pics of what he sent me. got a lot of different angles but i think these r the best to show the lift

Not a bad looking truck... Any of the front axle that's the important part

heres what i can find as far as the front axle

If u didnt already i would pass looks like stock rears not good , no driveshaft front rear prob already bad.Or bad transfor case!For that price everything should work!

44" tires and 4.10 gears aare a very bad combination for any transmission. That's a lot of work to move that truck (reason why the Tx was replaced 10k miles ago, I'll bet). I'd also wager that the front and rear axles aren't geared the same. 20" "thug" wheels make me think the PO/seller's intent with this truck was form without the slightest concern for function. I'd offer half if any of the asking price and work from there. He's not trying to sell you the truck, he's trying to sell you what he has invested into the truck. HE wanted a lifted 2wd sittin on 20's, YOU want a dependable TD DD that has an aggressive/capable appearance with matching performance. Make him feel like he NEEDS to sell it, not that you NEED to buy it. Control the sale. With every deal made, someone gets screwed. Don't let it be you.

are u a salesman? cuz that sure as shit sold me. on the edge of my seat by the time i finished reading ur post :tu:

Who, me? I used to be. I secured a 2,800 sq ft condo in hell with a ocean of fire side view while I was a salesman for ADT. I studied psychology and exploited it while talking people out of their money. Actually sold a security system to the wife of a Chief of Police in NC while her husband was at work. I was a bad, bad man back then. Now I'm a medic. Making things right, for really crappy pay. Being a former salesman has taught me a lot about how to buy stuff cheaper too. IF you decide to buy this truck, offer much less like I said, but hand over cash. If he said $7k, offer him $4k in cash. Let him hold it in his hand, feel it, flip though it, etc. It's really really hard to turn down money once it's in your hand. I bought my Crown Vic (since totaled) for $5k, they were asking $8,900. Handed over cash, when they declined it I held my hand open, but not out. I made the seller reach out to give the money back. Psychology took over as that cash got further and further away. Needless to say, I drove away in the car. Control the sale. Avoid the word "need" whenever you are buying something. Example: I 'm trying to find a Dana 60 front for my K5. When I call the yard I say I'm "looking around for an axle for a project." That conveys that I am hunting for the best deal and can wait to find it. If I were to tell them I "need to find an axle" it would sound like I'm trying to get my DD back and on the road so I can get to work. I can go on and on about how to save money making deals like this, but I don't want to hijack your thread.

Well said man!!!!!!!