What is your preferred oil brand and weight for the 6.5? How about filter? Gasket?
 

So in the midst of trying to get my new clutch figured out I thought I would get in a oil change on my 96 6.5 with 198K miles. Here in AL we are looking at temps in the low 40s and highs right around 75-85. Truck runs temps between 200 - 220 degrees when warmed up.

I last ran with a Mobil 1 - Extended Performance filter Part #M1-302 and for oil I used 2 quarts of Lucas Oil Stablizer and 5 quarts of Rotella. To be honest I do not remember what weight I ran (it is written down in the trucks log book). Pretty sad that I can not remember huh?


So I do not wish to start a war with this question - but what kind of oil do you run and what weight for the temps I am seeing?

Also what filter do you like?

I have access to NAPPA, AutoZone and Advance as well as Westwood.

Do you ever replace the gasket on the drain plug for the oil pan? If so do you use plastic or copper gasket? If copper what part# please.

Thank you and have a great weekend!

~GOD BLESS~

john

15-40 Rotell T and I go to my Napa on half price filter Fridays Napa=Wix my 93 has a plastic washer I replace only when it leaks,And have you looked at the actual temp with a scan tool?? might have some variation with the gauge and actual operating temp??

Thank you for the info - so think I might be runnning a little hot?
 

I appreciate the info on the oil, filter and washer for the pan bolt.

With regards to the temp I am just going off what the dash guage reads. What kind of scan tool do I need to get the actual temp? I assume it is a plug in type.

I do have the laser pointer temp guage - but I do not thnki that is what you are referring to..

Thank you

~GOD BLESS~

john

A good OBD II scan tool will plug under the dash a code reader will not do this I have a actron that will do OBD I and II, I have a 97 gas burner that shows warmer on the dash than my tool don't know if this is happening in your case but it may give you a place to start.

Excellent! Sounds like my next investment...
 

That sounds like it would be good to have. I need to get one for sure.

Thank you!

Have a great weekend - drive safe.

~GOD BLESS~

john

2 qts of Lucas Oil stabilizer will make your oil really thick. If you use Synthetic Diesel Engine Oil, you dont need to add any oil additive(s). You will likely increase fuel mileage, and alittle HP & TQ to boot! Your engine temp will probably also go down a few degrees as well. Your engine will love you for it.

Update post-oil change...
 

Thank you for the advice to not add 2 qrts of Lucas. I went with Rotella T 15W40 6 qrts and 1 qrt of Lucas. Used a Napa/Wix Oil Filter and a new plastic gasket for the drain pan plug.

The truck runs nice and after a good 45 minute drive the temp is hanging on the line between 160 and the 210 mark on the dash guage. Since it is in the middle of those two numbers I guess that would be 185 degrees?

Oil pressure, again based on the dash guage, is right past 40 psi @ idle.

Still need to look into a good scan tool for temp and to have for "when needed" times...

Thanks for the help. I appreciate it very much.

~GOD BLESS~

john

Just keep in mind, the thicker the oil, the longer it takes for it to get to vital engine parts, ie: rod bearings, crank bearings, cam bearings, rocker arms, rocker shaft etc..... You never want these parts to starve for oil. A thinner oil or synthetic oil will get to these parts much faster. If you feel you need to run Lucas oil stabilizer, try the Lucas "Pure Synthetic" stabilizer. This is good stuff and very slick. Less friction for your engine, essentially turning dino oil into a synthetic blend oil. Colder weather will cause your oil to thicken as well.
I only use Lucas "Pure Synthetic" in the summer when towing my 9800 lb travel trailer, while vacationing. Texas gets damned hot in the summer. I use Mobil 1 5w-40 Synthetic oil , Rotella T6 5w-40 Synthetic oil, and sometimes Chevron Delo 400 5w-40 Synthetic oil. Whatever is available, but only those three brands of Synthetic (just preference). In the winter, the thinner 5w-40 Synthetic will travel faster through the engine, decreasing the chance of oil starvation. Most engine wear occurs during cold start-ups.

Make good sense...
 

I run Lucas in all my gas burners - and I do run the synthetic Lucas in my wifes car that gets full synthetic oil only. I noticed while picking out the Lucas that it said on the Synthetic bottle "Reccomended for Powerstroke (Ford) engines" and I thought about getting it. But I did not since at that time I was planning on running two quarts of the regular Lucas...

You are spot on about wear occuring during start up and dry starts are the worst on any type of motor. I noticed the oil got pretty dark pretty fast (after this mornings change) - so I think I will shorten the change interval on this run to about 2,000 miles. Then I can run some partial or full synthetic oil and the full synthetic Lucas.

I do need to run an oil analysis on this motor. It runs like a champ so I am expecting good things.

Thanks again for your advice and for the detail of what you do when you know you are going to be towing etc... I do appreciate it very much.

~GOD BLESS~

john

My job here is done............go forth and burn rubber grasshopper. :c:

Yes - I will follow the narrow (synthetic) path ; )

~GOD BLESS~

john

I've always run Amsoil 5W30 diesel engine oil in my 6.5 diesels. I also use a bypass filter - either Amsoil or FS2500 - and run extended oil changes.
I change the oil every 20,000 miles.

I install a T in the engine oil cooler return line to supply the bypass filter and return to the fill neck.
I bought a bunch of 5W40 Mobile 1 when it was on sale cheap. I am only going to run that 10,000 miles and test it as Mobile does not recommend running their oil for extended oil changes.
After I run out of the Mobile I will go back to Amsoil

bypass filter...
 

I would love to know more about your bypass set up. Do you remove from the block the existing filter mount and then install the T fitting into that and run the lines as you suggetsed?

Is it available in a kit somewhere with alll the parts included?

I would love to have the extra oil capacity and extra filtration from that type of set up.

Thank you for your input!

~GOD BLESS~

john

I leave the OEM filter alone.

I install a T into the return line from the engine oil cooler. It's easiest to do when you are changing the engine oil cooler lines anyway.

I have mounted the bypass filters a few different ways. On the 1994 there was plenty of room to mount on the drivers side fender well behind the battery. On one I mounted the filter to the right side of the drivers side battery box. On the 98 Suburban I mounted the filter horizontally on the inner fender by the anti-lock brake controller. I made it so the whole thing could be taken out to change the filter

I weld a nipple in the engine oil fil;l neck to attach the return line

Most excellent...
 

I was trying to figure out how you did it - now it makes sense. I will look around and scope out for some good mounting places and then put the extra filters down as a future project.

Thank you!

~GOD BLESS~

john

You have a 1996. I'll try to remember to get pictures of how I mounted the bypass, the T and the return.

If I do not get back to you, message me and remind me.

Diesel oil will be black the second you start the engine. Changing it sooner won't change the color. Just so your aware

You are right... the oil will be black...
 

Especially since some hangs around in the cooler lines etc... I was just thinking about changing it at a decent interval so I could take a sample and run an oil analysis. I went , in my opinion, too long on the last change.

Thank you!

~GOD BLESS~

john

I use Rotella 15w-40. I use a larger capacity filter (Purolator, I believe the L40048). It's the NAPA 1794 crossover to Purolator. Now my system holds 8 quarts of oil. This oil filter cannot be used on 4wd applications.

With the bypass filters you will notice a lightening in color of the oil about 500 miles after you change it.

i have a 98, i would also like to see pics of how this is done

Going to be busy again today. Private message me and keep reminding me to get pictures. I only have 3 vehicles here. The 1996 Suburban is in Tennessee right now. I'll try to remember to put this on my "to do" list.
If I do not write it down, I forget it in mili-seconds.

Sounds like you have an interest in your project....
 

I'll send you a PM and if you get a chance in your busy day to day post it here in this thread.
Thank you!

~GOD BLESS~

john

6 pics in this post from the 1994 K3500. The 1989 C2500 was the exact same More to come from this truck. I didn't know how many pics I could attach per post.

Can somebody message me that info? Could I attach them all at once?

more of the 1994 K3500 FS2500 bypass

the engine oil cooler lines for the 1994 K3500 6.5 TD. I need a T placed in one of the lines to feed my FS2500 bypass filter. The middle can be 1/4" NPT. The present T I have in another vehicle is 1/2x3/8x1/2 and the 3/8 hole is bushed down to 1/4"m NPT.

Let me know if these measurements sound good to you.

I have written down from the last time I did this to install the T in the shorter of the 2 lines

engine oil cooler T. Short line 16" to center line of T from end of fitting. These would match the measurements to Lubrication Specialist or Leroydiesel.com's kits.

I've been wanting to find time to have inlinetube.com make me some OEM style lines to the T.
Ending up with the fitting to the block that Lubrication Specialist or Leroydiesel.com use
33" to the other end
52 1/4" from end to end
1/4" NPT for T

I have a few more pictures from the 1994 K3500, 1998 K2500 Suburban and the 1995 Tahoe. Pictures of the T's were hard to get.

Sorry for the pictures. I can't see what I'm taking pictures of and can't see the pictures on the camera. Didn't have time to proof them blown up.

more pics

All my mounts were made out of scrap I had around. Note the aluminum diamond plate. LOL