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-   -   6.5 turbo diesel shutting off (https://www.dieselbombers.com/chevy-gmc-6-2l-6-5l/106574-6-5-turbo-diesel-shutting-off.html)

6.5dieselman 12-13-2012 12:15 PM

6.5 turbo diesel shutting off
 
If anyone can help it would be great. I was driving truck shut off it crank back up then shut off again now it's really hard starting it and it shuts off after a while sometimes it won't crank at all pmd?? I also checked beside the turbo where the small can is followed that vacum line and its ok but the other vacum line that runs with that one is broke any ideas what that line does?

racer55 12-13-2012 02:00 PM

Would help a lot if you included some vehicle specific information,like the year?

If the vac lines you refer to originate at the turbo wastegate actuator and trvels to the drivers side valve cover to the wastegate solenoid and then forward to the vacuum pump,then it is the main vacuum supply line and needs repaired.

With the main (orange) line broken you will have no turbo boost and will smoke black badly under load causing high EGT's and possible engine meltdown.

Stalling could be PMD?
Could be many other things also,more info on what you have tried is helpfull.

Please copy and paste this diagnostic check list to your next reply and edit in the answers to the questions and the results of the tests linked in blue:
Diagnostic Checklist version 2.0 [10-2009] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

racer55 12-13-2012 02:03 PM

1 Attachment(s)
F vin vacuum map

racer55 12-13-2012 02:04 PM

1 Attachment(s)
S vin Vacuum map

6.5dieselman 12-14-2012 10:32 AM

1996 gmc 1500 turbo diesel
 
Where does the orange vacum line go

racer55 12-14-2012 02:38 PM

To the vacuum pump.

6.5dieselman 12-16-2012 11:59 AM

1996 6.5 turbo diesel
 
Thanks been a lot of help one more question I had was what's the valve that sits right above the belt tensioner one hose runs what looks like to the motor and the other hose is just hanging down should it be connected to anything?

racer55 12-16-2012 12:05 PM

That brass valve is the water in fuel drain valve.
The hose that just drops is where the drained fluid escapes to the ground.

The other hose is connected to the bottom of the filter housing where water would collect and that allows you to drain the water with the engine running.

6.5dieselman 12-17-2012 03:39 PM

1996 gmc 6.5 turbo diesel
 
Ok so my vacum pump was bad and I had a few vacum leaks I fixed all of that stuff. Truck turned over fine. I let the truck idle then I opened up the bleeder valve to make sure I was getting fuel also backed the cap on top of the fuel filter housing getting fuel there. The truck at an idle runs fine when I bring the throttle up slow to about 4000 Rpms sounds normal. Now when I hit the gas hard in a fast motion the truck spits and sputters then comes back to an idle that sounds normal again. And seems to stay running fine. One other thing that I have also noticed for some reason the oil gauge has dropped past zero which would mean the oil sending unit could be bad or the oil pump could be bad is there any other quick way to make sure I'm getting oil pressure? The truck has about 320,000 miles on it before I put the new vacum pump etc the truck would just stall out while driving it I'm lost here.

racer55 12-17-2012 04:36 PM

Best to remove the OPS and use a mechanical gauge to check oil pressure at the OPS location to be sure.

6.5dieselman 12-17-2012 05:18 PM

What's is the ops and where is it located?

racer55 12-17-2012 05:36 PM

The OPS is the Oil Pressure Switch/Sensor
It is located in the engine valley just in front of the fuel filter housing below the glow plug relay.

6.5dieselman 12-19-2012 12:03 PM

6.5 turbo diesel
 
So I replaced my ops I figured out my needle was bad on the gauge.. Turned over the truck and it keeps stalling it runs then stalls I just don't understand what's going on. I'm putting a new fuel filter on it now it was really dirty see what happens if it doesn't work what my next step pmd? How do you check to see if they are working properly

racer55 12-19-2012 02:11 PM

Since you never included the diagnostic checklist I asked you to do,I can only guess that the PMD is the problem.

The only way to test for PMD failure is replacement.

This diagnostic has helped some though:
www.AccurateDiesel.com - PMD Installation Instructions - Accurate Technical Services, LLC

JorgeNY 12-21-2012 09:51 AM

I agree with the PMD being the possible culprit to your issues. what is the current state of the PMD? Location? age? miles?

6.5dieselman 12-24-2012 11:44 AM

1996 k1500 6.5 turbo diesel 323,000 miles
 
1.truck is hard starting
2.once started truck hesitates at times then clears back up to and idle.
3.once driving the truck runs smooth but once holding at lets just say 40 it kind of jumps lightly.

Parts ive changed out after the symptoms
1.vacum pump all and new vac lines
2.belt tensoner & belt
3.new air filter new fuel filter
4.oil change and cleaned motor new oil pump and gasket
5.oil sending unit

Codes my truck read

1.po216- injection timing control circuit

2.po406- egr sensor A circuit high

3.p1656 wasteate solenoid control circuit


can anyone explain the codes and what parts that would be associated with the codes so i can get the parts and get this fixed thanks..

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

The current location of the pmd is original never been changed the truck has 323,000 miles on it.

racer55 12-24-2012 02:37 PM

P0216 is for the stepper motor on the IP which controls timing.
P1656 is for the wastegate solenoid
P0406 is for the baro sensor I believe?

With those codes you may have a faulty ground connection at the rear of the intake at the common ground stud,at least that is where I would start looking.

6.5dieselman 12-24-2012 05:47 PM

1996 k1500 6.5 turbo diesel 323,000 miles
 
whats the stepper motor?
I just bought a turbo boost gauge today and was looking around to hook it up didnt really have any ideas i done some researching do i have a vacum line on the intake anywhere to put a why i kinda looked around didnt see anything if not i assume ill have to tap in somewhere. If i do need to tap in somewhere wheres a good location or a few different locations? thanks youve been a really big help thanks

racer55 12-24-2012 10:53 PM

the steppeer motor is an appliance on the passenger side of the IP that conrtols the timing when commanded by the ECM.

To install a boost gauge you must drill and tap the upper intake to accommodate a barb fitting or buy a boost bolt from leroy diesel to take the place of one of the center upper intake bolts.

6.5dieselman 12-24-2012 11:27 PM

So do you recommend I replace that part? So if I buy the boost bolt I wouldn't have to tap into the intake? If I did tap into intake to you recommend I remove the intake? A picture of locations that would be safe to do so would be helpful

racer55 12-25-2012 09:52 AM

There are links to gauge install in this thread:
https://www.dieselbombers.com/chevy-...uum-lines.html

I would say that you are going to need a quality scanner to first diagnose the stepper motor.

6.5dieselman 12-27-2012 08:13 PM

1996 k1500 6.5 turbo diesel 323,000 miles
 
trucks been running pretty good ive been driving it while the truck is warm it cranks right up no problem but when it sits over night and i try to crank it in the am its really hard to get it going.. any ideas of what i can do. and im going to go ahead and buy a pmd anyways wheres a good place to buy it from? or website

racer55 12-27-2012 09:23 PM

I think you might be the victim of leaking filter manager O rings.
The fuel heater in the bottom and the water in fuel sensor in the side could be letting fuel leak out overnight causing air intrusion and hard starting.

That or you may not have properly working glow plugs?

There are a great many PMD purchasing optionsdo some searching and then report what you find-then better advice can be given on each vendor.

6.5dieselman 12-30-2012 12:50 PM

thanks.. ok i put a new battery in the truck now the truck wont crank at all it would always crank before i put the battery in. now my glow plug light when i turn the key over blinks and the glow plug relay clicks open n closed open and closed about 5 times then the glow plug light shuts off is the relay no good... i have no idea on this one i'm a little puzzled any help would be appreciated

racer55 12-31-2012 09:32 AM

Bad battery cables with corrosion or a bad connection,it also requires 2 batteries to get these trucks to run.

6.5dieselman 12-31-2012 05:24 PM

1996 gmc k1500 turbo diesel
 
I have two batteries they were both side post and the new battery was top post so i cut the exsisting cable and bought top post ends tightend everything. Up and i put a brand new glow plug relay and replaced a bad glow plug and still no start it turns over but wont crank up the glow plug light comes on as a solid light then blinks 5 times or so never done that before i also checked all glow plug wires to make sure i had power and i did also had power at relay i just dont understand could my pmd just finally died?

racer55 01-01-2013 09:30 AM

Crack an injector line loose and see if any fuel is making it's way to the injectors-if no-PMD
if yes pmd is ok likely

Be sure to try starting after the glow plug light goes out the first time.

6.5dieselman 01-01-2013 06:45 PM

ok i will try that tomorrow. thanks ill let you know what happends is their any more info that would help you out a little more on diagnosing the problem? its just really weird i drove it home from the auto part store parked it. while i was changing the battery then it wouldnt crank up anymore so weird but thanks for the info. i dont want to sound like a complete idiot but where exactly is the injector line?

6.5dieselman 01-11-2013 06:16 PM

okay i got the truck to start finally but the starter silonoid started smoking really bad i opened it up the ground wire was melted the inside of it smelled like an electrical fire is it possible that starter wasent getting the correct voltage because the siloniod was going out maybe thats why it was taking so long to start and wouldnt that also give me a faulty ground if it was severly melted??:argh:

racer55 01-12-2013 08:48 AM

You may have just had too low a cranking speed from a burnt out starter?

acesneights1 01-12-2013 07:15 PM

Slow cranking speed=no start.

6.5dieselman 01-23-2013 11:40 AM

Ok I put the new starter on I cleaned all the grounds on the truck the truck turned over it kind of hesitated but it did turn over it stayed on I let it run for an hour or so shut it off turned it back over fired right up went out the next morning it wouldn't crank I've replaced all battery cables with #2wire so all the wires good whats the next step..

racer55 01-23-2013 12:45 PM

Does it smoke when it turns over?

Also folks from the south make this confusing,up north cranking is what the starter does-running is when it runs.

When you say it won't crank do you mean the starter won't turn the engine over,or it won't run?

6.5dieselman 01-23-2013 12:59 PM

No it doesn't smoke at all never has the starter is really strong turning the motor over but it won't actually crank up.. Then sometimes it will sputter while trying to crank it up then it will crank up. I bought a brand new starter not a reman just to make that clear I took the hose off the ip or intake can't really see what it goes to it comes out of one side of the fuel filter housing I think it says outlet but anyways when I turned the key over fuel shot out good so I'm kind of puzzled I thought pmd but I'm tired of guessing I've wasted a lot of money guessing I mean what else could it be all glow plugs and wires are good my lift pimp checked out good. I put a new glow plug relay in it all fuses are good new oil sending unit I'm running out of ideas.

racer55 01-23-2013 03:08 PM

It still sounds like you have a fuel leak from the filter housing that is letting air in the system when it sits overnight.

Crack an injector line loose,the crank the starter over for no more than 15 seconds with a 1 minute starter cooldown.
After up to 3 sessions of that the truck should be running if it had sucked air and neded bleeding-tighten the injector line once the engine is running.

If by 3-4 cranking sessions it is still not running and no visible fuel from the loose injector line go through this checklist:
www.AccurateDiesel.com - PMD Installation Instructions - Accurate Technical Services, LLC

6.5dieselman 01-26-2013 01:18 PM

Ok I cracked the injection line did exactly what you said no fuel was coming out of the injector line is that normal and if not what should be wrong with it?

racer55 01-26-2013 11:27 PM

Fuel should come out the injector line,go through the accurate diesel checklist linked above.

6.5dieselman 01-27-2013 01:47 AM

I did but I got stumped on one thing it said to take the hose off the top of the injector and put another hose on it put that hose in a bucket start the truck and if it cranked up then the return line was clogged. The problem is I'm not getting any fuel coming out of the top of th ip at all could a bad pmd keep the ip from working. I'm getting fuel to the ip but everything after that is bone dry no fuel in none of the injection lines nothing.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

I meant the hose of the ip sorry

racer55 01-27-2013 08:43 AM

Could be a bad PMD is the problem?

Doing the complete diagnostics of the no start guide should have led you to an answer about that?

The return line at the front of the IP is what you were supposed to extend to a bucket,not an injector line .

6.5dieselman 01-27-2013 12:45 PM

That's what I did I might if confused you the way I wrote it I'm buying the pmd kit from accurate diesel Friday ill install it and let you know sometime during the weekend thanks for the help man.


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