6.5 turbo diesel shutting off
 

If anyone can help it would be great. I was driving truck shut off it crank back up then shut off again now it's really hard starting it and it shuts off after a while sometimes it won't crank at all pmd?? I also checked beside the turbo where the small can is followed that vacum line and its ok but the other vacum line that runs with that one is broke any ideas what that line does?

Would help a lot if you included some vehicle specific information,like the year?

If the vac lines you refer to originate at the turbo wastegate actuator and trvels to the drivers side valve cover to the wastegate solenoid and then forward to the vacuum pump,then it is the main vacuum supply line and needs repaired.

With the main (orange) line broken you will have no turbo boost and will smoke black badly under load causing high EGT's and possible engine meltdown.

Stalling could be PMD?
Could be many other things also,more info on what you have tried is helpfull.

Please copy and paste this diagnostic check list to your next reply and edit in the answers to the questions and the results of the tests linked in blue:
Diagnostic Checklist version 2.0 [10-2009] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

F vin vacuum map

S vin Vacuum map

1996 gmc 1500 turbo diesel
 

Where does the orange vacum line go

To the vacuum pump.

1996 6.5 turbo diesel
 

Thanks been a lot of help one more question I had was what's the valve that sits right above the belt tensioner one hose runs what looks like to the motor and the other hose is just hanging down should it be connected to anything?

That brass valve is the water in fuel drain valve.
The hose that just drops is where the drained fluid escapes to the ground.

The other hose is connected to the bottom of the filter housing where water would collect and that allows you to drain the water with the engine running.

1996 gmc 6.5 turbo diesel
 

Ok so my vacum pump was bad and I had a few vacum leaks I fixed all of that stuff. Truck turned over fine. I let the truck idle then I opened up the bleeder valve to make sure I was getting fuel also backed the cap on top of the fuel filter housing getting fuel there. The truck at an idle runs fine when I bring the throttle up slow to about 4000 Rpms sounds normal. Now when I hit the gas hard in a fast motion the truck spits and sputters then comes back to an idle that sounds normal again. And seems to stay running fine. One other thing that I have also noticed for some reason the oil gauge has dropped past zero which would mean the oil sending unit could be bad or the oil pump could be bad is there any other quick way to make sure I'm getting oil pressure? The truck has about 320,000 miles on it before I put the new vacum pump etc the truck would just stall out while driving it I'm lost here.

Best to remove the OPS and use a mechanical gauge to check oil pressure at the OPS location to be sure.