Question For Any Plumbers Out There
 

ok ive ripped apart the bathroon in the downstairs, had a black mold problem. I took out all the old gype rock and wood that was affected, replaced the walls with wood and painted etc.. now comes the time to install the sink. But the line is still leaking. how do i get this line to stop leaking?

Also installing the sink , i think i have the doughnut in upside down?
Another question is when you silicon the sink do you silicon under the metal piece or under the rubber piece. my first plumbing job. the ol man is NO help. hes too busy doing his thing, i dont ask him to help. stubborn a bit i guess. but i do want to do this right so any advice will help me out. ill take some pics and get them on here. show you what im talkin about.

Which line is leaking? If it is leaking around a fitting some teflon tape should take care of it. All the sinks I've installed are ceramic into marble tops so we used a special sealent.

heres some photos. the line without the shut off has the leak.

the silicone i picked up is called kitchen and bath by ge 100% silicone rubber. does this go all around the underside of the faucets between the sink and rubber? and do i have the drain in right?

You dont need that stuff between the sink and the faucet that is why the rubber gasket is there. The drain appears right in the pics. The silicone goes between the sink and the cabinet. Were is the line hooking into the wall or the faucet?

Ahh ok thats why i checked the guy at home depot said you did. so all around the sinkand cabinet cause its all one piece. and what about the drain hole between the metel and ceramic? you know the metal piece on the top side of the side or under it?
that line in the pic is comeing from the wall. I will need another line to go to the faucets. Is it better to replace that whole line with one solid one that comes from the wall? or just get another piece to fit from the center of the cabinet to the faucets.

You really only need to caulk anywhere you have the sink countertop touching the wall. The wood cabinet won't need to be sealed.

I can't say as I understand the rest of your question enough to comment.

I just wanted to know, if I should replace the lines right from the wall with one line directly to the faucets. or do it in two , using the lines that leaks .or how to fix the fitting? turn off water, then that should shut the whole water off right.take the top of the fitting and replace the nozzel, turn water back on and add the other lines, and vola done... I think i solved this one:) thanks..lol:U:

use KILZ for a primer then paint over top of that, it will help the mold from coming back, also if you drywall use "green" board, its "waterproof" drywall, notice that was in quotations....

Good advic. The green board is water resistent though not water proof. I know I'm being nit picky but use to always get yelled at about that.

I did paint over with some mold restistance water proof paint. Cant remember the brand. but i just put 3/4" plywood there just for a quick fix. No gype rock. the Wall board you see is just plywood painted black and yea thanks for the advise on the green board, I remember redoing around a bath tub once we used that stuff.
ill go get this done.
i think my only other issue will be with the down pipe the old one i want to reuse is alot bigger then the new one.
But i think i can get a peice that goes from one size to the other.

Yeah you should be able to get any size reducer that you need.

this sucks. i cant shut that particular line off, the whole house shuts off except that one? wierd eh. and the shut off valve doesnt fit proper the line ,:booo: the line is too small? and the down pipe is missing a middle piece. so now what.........:argh: I just seen your post , is that what its called a reducer?

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in the fitting there a bunch a parts. that piece it together,, first theres a sleeve that goes inside the line. then a widget ( a round piece that goes into the nut that goes on the end of the line.) that piece is just loose inside the nut. thats where the fitting it too big.....??????? my batteries just died in the cam, or id take a shot for you......its the same as whats on the other line. ...... do u understand what im talking about?
I do really appreciate your imput..:) BTW

You have me confused. You have two water lines coming out of the wall correct? One should be hot and the other cold. Which line is leaking? As for the middle pipe you are talking about the drain correct. Pics are worth a thousand words right now.

correct and the cold is leaking.drain pipe is right. going to home depot will buy batteries for camera and see what i can get for proper lines. fittings..etc.. the middle pipe goes from a 11/4 to ? mabye a 3/4 i should go measure before i go. ill get back at ya, after i come back......... ttyl

Ok

yea , I got back and the whole downstairs was flooded. :argh::sos::(omg. I go to home depot and they insist i need a whole new elbow. bring it all back and nope was just the one screw clamp thingy that i needed. from the tube down under the sink is good now, just the leak...which is still leaking.... and its hot water to btw. not cold like i thought,

ummmm at this point i know it'll be hard for you to live down but you would be money, time, and headache ahead to call a plumber if you haven't already fixed it..... sorry i had to say it but that's what i would have done.... if caulk, plumbers putty, and expanda foam won't fix it then that's all i got.....

If it is the hot water side leaking you can shut off water going into the water heater for now to stop the leak if you haven't already. I would buy a new shutoff valve and replace it at the wall. This usually mean soudering(sp) though and dont know how comfortable you are with that. If it is leaking at the fitting buy a new hose and teflon tape both threaded ends you will be attaching it to. Like I said before though without a pic of the leak it is hard to give advice like this. Do they both have shutoff valves that you hook your hose to? Is it just leaking were the hose connects is stuff I would need to know to help you out. Leaking at the valve or the faucet?

Andy

well i got it fixed. after all that, the widget I referred to (made up that name ) is really a ferrow(SP?) and that wasnt put over the pex line very well. once I got that clamped on there proper, ta-da the leak stopped. I counldnt sodder anything cause its all plastic.. that wouldnt help..but thanks for the advice guys.. now all i have to do is drill a bunch of holes in the side of the cabinet and feed the lines through. caulk the counter and hook everything up, then it should be ready to use.. Now I have another leak from the dishwasher........................should i tackel that too...........:)
btw i really dont like plumbing..

Its not that bad, only one water line and a drain on the dishwasher.

yea....................
I have to finish the bathroom before i start on that one....... maybe next week.
So far i have the cabinet in, holes drilled, everythings hooked up , had a few leaks but just tightened them up. finger xed.. I wont leave today with out checking first.;)
next is the med cabinet and more paint. the shower needs a bit of finishing, i think that might be leaking too......the floor.. maybe in a few weeks......I might just tile it.
beside the leak from the dishwasher leakes through the floor from the top. I think, its covered with a board, on the roof. might just be easy too. I can get to it from downstairs... what else are you good at..:)

Suprized no one has said it yet, but that drain isn't on there right.

To seal up the drain to the sink you have to have a seal(the doughnut). The way it looks in the pics is that you have a brass washer against porcelain, then rubber then a nut. Shoud be rubber (tapered side up) into the drain hole, then brass washer, then brass nut.

It was leaking there the way i had it.. but i have tighten it up and it stopped.
ill go check again and switch it, thanks Rolloffhill......pics s attached i took pics of the other way around,

Good catch, thats what i get for not paying attention and posting while playing with my daughter.

I worked as a general contractor for a while, I know how to do alot of the stuff around houses.

Andy

why does that not look right to me, the rubber should be stuffed up there with the flat washer against the fat part on the rubber....?

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Good ......:U:

The first pic in that last post is correct, just crank it down tight. My little girl will be 2 in December and is into everything.lol

alexis is two in may...... I know excatly how you feeling.. best tip. dont clean till the last minute, preferrably napping...... now i re did this pipe and this is what it looks like, just one last leak in the drain pipe. then I quit...... going to get some paint, also the drain pipe is too long so it wont fit into the wal proper, i ll go get a smaller one i think and it should work................

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heres last pic

If it start to leak around the top of that drain pipe take the washer out from between the sink and rubber.

Hard to tell in the pictures, but the rubber is tapered. The washer should be touching the rubber that is the same size, the smaller part of the rubber goes up and gets forced into the sink drain.

heres the last pic. I redid it so the little (tappered end) went up into the drain and the washer squished it flat. looks good. :) thanks for noticing, that was my very first question.:)


One project completed.. another started.......that pipe is glued shut , the big black drain pipe that goes to the wall. see in pic.. theres no way to get it off without getting out a hack saw....:( the only thing i can do is leave the counter where it is. and build shelves along the side between the wall and cabinent. theres about a 6 " gap or so..

Did someone say i should call a plumber............lol........... way too stubborn to just give up:hammer::up2:....why let someone else do what you can yourself.

You could always cut it and use some slip joint fittings. Not sure about code up in BC but that is usually the easiest to use as you can take them apart to clean out P traps and fix other problems in the future.

then just cement it together? where they join, ? like one that comes down to another elbow? is that what you mean with the trap on the bottom?