Help with my audio setup
 

Ok so I am completely over hauling my audio. I have some stuff picked out I just want some input on the choices I've made. I don't want to go too crazy but I want it to sound nice.

Amp Installation Kit:American ACC Powerkit9 1800W AMP Hook-up Kit | Overstock.com
Receiver: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X895 CD receiver at Crutchfield Signature
Sub Box: Sound Ordnance™ Bass Bunker Sealed dual 12" subwoofer enclosure (Model BB122-125S) at Crutchfield Outlet
Subs that I have already:Infinity 1260w Reference Series 12" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
Amp that I have already: Rockford Fosgate® - T10001bd
Tweeters: ????
Front door speakers: ???? (I've heard round speakers are the way to go no 6x9? And I also want 3-way speakers?)
Back door speakers: ????

And anything else that someone might think of? My '02 Dodge has the infinity system in it currently but the door speakers are going out. I also want to patch the holes in the doors with some kind of dynamat or something 'cuz I've heard that helps a lot with sound quality.

Thanks guys! Some of these items are on sale till the end of the month so I'd like to order soon!

Equipment choices are subjective and based upon personal experiences,I have had excellent results from Rockford Fosgate,Kicker,Kenwood and CTD Audio.I believe Kenwood makes one of the best head units for longevity. and the Exelon is loaded with features.As my own preference of late,I have installed only 6.5 components in the doors and rear fill areas,but have had equal sound from quality 6x9's in the past. There are numerous products available to control sound and noise,my preference has been Dynamat Extreme,and I cover all metal surfaces that I can access inside the cab,and double it on the floor.Look around,it can be bought in the bulk packs for $150.00 or less. It's money very well spent.:tu:

You have chosen an excellent receiver. I have had several of the 895's, and wish they were still making them. If you found one, get it. The only down side to them is that they have a rotating face, and the ribbon that attaches it cracks and fails at the pin it has to rotate around. Every one I have had had that problem. Excellent receiver though. There are new models that have the same features that do not rotate. As for power amps, check out Hifonics, they always put out at least the power they say they will,and usually come with a birth certificate with test results.it is a brand that has been around for a long time, and are usually very affordable. In my opinion you get the most bang for your buck with hifonics. You will be happy with the infinity's.

If you are going to buy deadener look into Audio Technix. it is a newer deadener on the market, but is twice what dynamat is, and 1/3rd the price. I have the 80 mil, and would recommend it to anyone looking for deadening.

I'll look into that thanks!

Do I have to bypass the infinity amps for the speakers or can i just wire the speakers to them?

I am sure you have already thought of this, but if you are running 1800 watts of audio power from that amp at max, then you will be drawing 165 amps of DC electric from your batteries and alternator. Make sure that you have a fused link of some sort as clost to the battery as possible that is running the power for the amp. Maybe a 1 Farad Cap. in line with it as well so you don't draw all the power from you batteries at once when the bass hits. Just a thought:humm:

Thanks for the tip. I have thought about putting in a capacitor but I don't really think I need one? I don't run my setup at peak very often but if it will save my batteries and my alternator I would want to put one in. Think I should?

Using a cap is pointless. There are many theories on it. But in the end, you alternator still has recharge the batteries and the cap. I would recommend getting a better batteries (agm) or a high output alternator.

Also you won't be seeing 1800 watts all the time. I would approximate half that at best on normal music. So the draw won't be as much as you think.:c:

I just bought new batteries but I'm twiddling my thumbs waiting for the alternator to bite it and when it does I'll get a higher output unit.

I think i'll can it for now it's something I can add later if I find that it's struggling which I can't see it doing unless I'm blowing them up.

I disagree with you on the cap. Yes, ultimately the alternator has to charge it up. But the purpose of it is when the amp calls for more power than the alternator and the batteries can supply, it will get its energy from the cap that is charged. If your run those 12" subs off of that 1800 watt amp, I know this system is going to be turned up and thumping, otherwise there would be no need for the 12's. And if you like your headlights dimming and the RPM's of the vehicle coming down every time these things hit, then by all means hard wire it without the cap.

To bring some light into this discussion:

The working principle of a capacitor is its ability to charge and discharge extremly quick. The reason for that is the extremely low internal resistance.
Good batteries also have a very low internal resistance. It is in fact close to a electric short. For this reason good batteries are able to deliver an enormous amount of current for starting purposes.
An old batterie has a higher internal resistance, this leads to lower amperage during starting- resulting in that feeling for a bad batterie.

In fact capacitors are a good choice to deliver current in high power applications.

BUT they will not help if an audiosystem has already weaaknesses in current storage or supply. In fact they will cover up a bad battery for a while. Thats it. The need for battery replacement still exists.
Dimming headlights and varying rpms are an indicator for a badly worn out electrical supply.

new battery with new alternator. Did the same thing. Why? Cause ther person was drawing more power than the entire system could provide alone. If you have an 85 amp alternator, with 2 1000 watt amplifiers or 1 2000 watt amplifier and you have the system cranked 75% of what it is capable of, when the bass hits and draws 120 plus amps from the battery and alternator alone, your lights will dim....with 1 900 amp hour battery and an 85 amp alternator with the vehicle running... THis is not good on the entire electrical system. Therefore, how can you help it? By either adding a high output alternator, a couple more batteries, or a 1 farad capacitor that is made for high power audio systems. They charge slowly so that they wont draw excessive current from the alternator and over work it, yet the have the ability to discharge rapidly when the system calls for it, such as when the base hits so it doesn't keep the alternator fluctuating its output. That decreases the life of the alternator. anything over 900 watts of audio power and I am putting a cap in. Never had a problem in 20 years, and wont . Just my .02

Capacitor recharge is extremely quickly!:

Tau= R x C

usually they slowed down during first start to prevent excess current flow while start.

Do not forget the demand of current of the truck,e.g.: Fuel lift pump, ECM, PCM- these units draw a bunch of power. Add this to your current consumption and your alternator is maxed out very quickly.

I'm always surprised to see someone whopping in a big battery and still keeping the nearly stock alternator. 85 amps? Thats pretty nothing. Common cars nowdays play in the 130 up to 200 amp league. So after installing a bigger battery the second thing is a bigger alternator, followed by cables to decrease losses.
- Alternator
- Battery
- Cables
Follow the ABC to avoid problems.

Hmm good info thanks for the input guys. I got finished up last night running the wiring and what not. I started the truck. The truck is started up and running even before the amp turns on. The head unit delays it for about 10 seconds before kicking it on so I think I'm fine with the draw on startup. I hit the a/c, lights, wipers, anything I could turn on electrically and then cranked up the bass and I couldn't stand it and the gauge didn't even move.

I don't know if this was because of the new batteries I had installed, I did cut out the old battery terminals and replaced them with better - they were a little green but nothing bad. I had dreaded doing this because sometimes that green goes farther down the cable then anticipated leading to a new cable. But there was no dimming a/c kicked on as normal so hopefully I'm good to go. I'll have to do more research on that cap...maybe ask my dad about it he's an electrical engineer. See if he has any ideas.

Back to the subject, so in fine tuning the system can anyone tell me what you run for MHz when you tune? I still have the stock speakers and tweets but new ones are almost on the way :tu: I can control everything (this deck is amazing) from the MHz to each speaker to the Mhz it sends to the front or rear or subs or tweets. Right now it sounds like ass I won't lie... and I already lost the manual :argh:

65+ pages to print one off...:scare2:

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One other thing does anyone know what the size speakers are in my truck? I've heard a couple of different things and I'd kind of like to have the speakers and tweets all ready to go when I tear into it...

CHEMMINS: Thanks man I've heard nothing but good things from Audio Technix. Got my first role commin :rocking:

No prob on the AT. I have used a couple rolls of the 80 mil in my own truck, and need to order another roll actually. Way cheaper than Dynamat, proven better quality and test results as well.