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Originally Posted by white93
(Post 600563)
It doesn't smell once its applied and we have 100f+ during the summer months and it doesn't affect it any. I put two layers down and it stays cold in the cab 30 minutes after the a/c is turned off. It's well worth the money and work imo.:tu:
Originally Posted by kazairl
(Post 600613)
I've had it installed on the back wall of my cab for almost 2 years now. Never smelt any asphalt and it has not slipped any. We also get lots of high 90s low 100 degree temps during the summer. Pretty dry though.
Originally Posted by JSPulliam21
(Post 600617)
I believe it is a butyl rubber. Not Asphalt. No smell at all, and it has been near 100 here for about 6 weeks straight.
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Its asphalt.
Using this material for roof repair - Peel and Seal™ Factory Recommendations I found a place that has it in wider widths but it is closer to $1.75 a SQ FT. I've been trying to find some with a Butyl based adhesive but all the stuff I have found so far is either 2-4" wide and close to $2 SQ FT or so. Peel and Seal Click Here | Roof Repair | Mobile Home Parts - Magic Mobile Home Supply, Inc. Heres some links to some Butyl based stuff http://www.findtape.com/product565/N...yl+Rubber+Tape http://www.findtape.com/shop/product...h=991&height=0 |
if anyone removes the headliner please take a picture or two.
i understand how to remove the blots/screws/clips, but removing the headliner is a different story. :c: |
its pretty easy, ill be installing the fatmat coundproofing material this weekend, so some time next week i will try to get pictures up!
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3 ways to nullify sound.
1- add mass 2- block sound 3- absorb sound 1- Use a heavy material to change the resonance of the metal (Dynomat and Peel/seal have are weak.) Use MASS LOADED VINYL with FOAM,The ONLY thing better is sheet lead. Did my whole cab took everything out except the dash. 2- Foam will absorb some sound and help insulate the cab from heat. Don't use bubble wrap stuff, Neoprene is great but its expensive. Its light... they use it on hot rods where they want some sound and insulation, but they need to keep it light. a 7000lb truck is not going to notice 100-200lbs of deadening. 3- LEAD and MLV actually block a portion of the sound by changing the soundwave into heat. Address voids, Get an extra set of seals from the front cowl/hood and use it to block sound from engine compartment. Put a muffler on (towards the rear):tu: |
Originally Posted by kazairl
(Post 586495)
I picked that tip up from another forum. I've never used any Dynamat or anything like that but it seems to be made out of a similiar material.
Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information This website mentions that 25% is the most effective. Any more dampening you gain by adding more isn't worth the added cost. Also only flat sections of metal need the dampening. Curved or bent/shaped sections are stronger and don't vibrate as much. And he is indeed right. Combine the CLD tiles with the MLV (or any other diy barrier, as long as it's dense and pliable) and you will be way better of than covering the whole car in layers of deadener and/or foam. I'm still looking for alternatives to MLV to do the Jeep..old diesels aren't exactly quiet.
Originally Posted by jkidd
(Post 611224)
3 ways to nullify sound.
1- add mass 2- block sound 3- absorb sound 1- Use a heavy material to change the resonance of the metal (Dynomat and Peel/seal have are weak.) Use MASS LOADED VINYL with FOAM,The ONLY thing better is sheet lead. Did my whole cab took everything out except the dash. 2- Foam will absorb some sound and help insulate the cab from heat. Don't use bubble wrap stuff, Neoprene is great but its expensive. Its light... they use it on hot rods where they want some sound and insulation, but they need to keep it light. a 7000lb truck is not going to notice 100-200lbs of deadening. 3- LEAD and MLV actually block a portion of the sound by changing the soundwave into heat. Address voids, Get an extra set of seals from the front cowl/hood and use it to block sound from engine compartment. Put a muffler on (towards the rear):tu: |
I have been looking into lizard skin. It's a sprayable coating. They have a ceramic heat barrier and a sound deadening as well. They can be used in conjunction. Haven't tried it yet but when I put my alarm and redo my stereo I am doing some kind of sound deadening.
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IMO don't waste time with the liquid stuff. Lots and lots of work when you can easily apply some tiles.
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