Soundproofing on the cheap
 

I want to do some sort of soundproofing to my cab. The dynamat and other similar products are out of my price range, so I am looking for other options on how to do it. I figured just some residential carpet padding glued to the floor, back wall of the cab and door outer/inner would help a lot. Good idea, bad idea, or other ideas?

save your money and do it right

Just a word of advice, dynamat does not have to be laid out in solid sheets and it doesn't take much to make a difference.

I bought 6 square feet, split 2 squares in 8 pieces and spread them out inside my quad cab door skins, 1.5 squares scattered in each front door and the extra .5 square scattered on the inside door frame underneath the door panel. Made a significant difference in the sound.

I remember reading (a while ago) that 1 square inch placed in the center will 1/2 the resonation on a 10"x10" area.

Save your money and do it right the first time.

I'll have to try that sometime!

Our member Kazirl mentioned Lowe's peal and seal- I checked it, and he is absolutely right! :tu:

It is a cheap alternative to those expensive Dynamats and it is used often in the audio world for that purpose.
I wouldn't wonder if it is the same base material, just another brand name...

keep an eye on craigslist.
i recently picked up 16 sheets of dynamat for $100.

also check:
Sound Deadening Materials for Noise Reduction from Second Skin
They are always sending out email discounts for 30% off.

I have used that rubberized under coating aerosal. works pretty good. not as good as the dyno mat or peal and seal but for $10 you can spray the underside of the cab

I picked that tip up from another forum. I've never used any Dynamat or anything like that but it seems to be made out of a similiar material.

Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information

This website mentions that 25% is the most effective. Any more dampening you gain by adding more isn't worth the added cost. Also only flat sections of metal need the dampening. Curved or bent/shaped sections are stronger and don't vibrate as much.

I picked up a roll of peel and seal from Lowe's, and I am going back to pick up some of this water heater insulation stuff for the head liner and door inners. This website has some good info. Hotrodders.com -- the net's largest hot rod site

Sound Deadener Fatmat 100 sq ft Bulk Pal here is stuff called FATMAT, you can get two rolls, each is 33 feet by 18 inches for $130, sounds like a damn good deal to me, im gonna do as much of my cab as possible to knock down the drone of the stacks i will be installing

I have used fatmat for the past 5 years and my buddy used it on the trunk of his 300. works excellent for a fraction of what dynamat costs.

thats very interesting! Keep the tips coming.
To supress road noise which is amplified by chambers or wheel houses, I use that self expanding foam.
But knowing that you never will get it out again, and it is a moisture trap.
To avoid these disadvantages I use plastic (freezer)bags, which are thicker than the average bags. You can fill them and adapt the form to the inner sheet metal, avoiding the mess and keep them off attracting moisture.
Road noise from the rear wheel housings is greatly reduced.

I did both front doors, the inners and outers with the peel and seal. Then I moved to the back wall of the cab. Both of those surfaces made a big improvement. It dropped the db in the cab 3 points. Back doors and roof are next.

I put the stuff from lowe's everywhere but the firewall and it made a difference. They also had a sheet of green egg carton like insulation and I put some of that between the roof and the headliner. My next project is to put as much deadener on the firewall without having to pull the dash.

[QUOTE=Deezel Stink3r;585571]Our member Kazirl mentioned Lowe's peal and seal- I checked it, and he is absolutely right! :tu:

where do you find that at lowe's?which department i went talked to 3 different people 2 never heard of it,1 did'nt know where it was,all department heads :dang:

roofing.

http://www.lowes.com/pl_Peel+%26+Sea...4294963790_44_

thanks,i'll go check it out.

does it have a smell/odor?i know some of these type products are asphalt based and have a asphalt/tar type smell to them.how well does the adhesive work for staying applied to surface?i'm in florida and heat and humidity are high on a regular basis

It doesn't smell once its applied and we have 100f+ during the summer months and it doesn't affect it any. I put two layers down and it stays cold in the cab 30 minutes after the a/c is turned off. It's well worth the money and work imo.:tu:

I've had it installed on the back wall of my cab for almost 2 years now. Never smelt any asphalt and it has not slipped any. We also get lots of high 90s low 100 degree temps during the summer. Pretty dry though.

I believe it is a butyl rubber. Not Asphalt. No smell at all, and it has been near 100 here for about 6 weeks straight.

thanks the weather there is very close to ours

thanks good to know

thanks good if its butyl thats great,i am gonna try to go by lowes this weekend and check it out

Its asphalt.

Using this material for roof repair - Peel and Seal™ Factory Recommendations

I found a place that has it in wider widths but it is closer to $1.75 a SQ FT. I've been trying to find some with a Butyl based adhesive but all the stuff I have found so far is either 2-4" wide and close to $2 SQ FT or so.

Peel and Seal Click Here | Roof Repair | Mobile Home Parts - Magic Mobile Home Supply, Inc.


Heres some links to some Butyl based stuff
http://www.findtape.com/product565/N...yl+Rubber+Tape

http://www.findtape.com/shop/product...h=991&height=0

if anyone removes the headliner please take a picture or two.

i understand how to remove the blots/screws/clips, but removing the headliner is a different story.

:c:

its pretty easy, ill be installing the fatmat coundproofing material this weekend, so some time next week i will try to get pictures up!

3 ways to nullify sound.
1- add mass
2- block sound
3- absorb sound

1- Use a heavy material to change the resonance of the metal (Dynomat and Peel/seal have are weak.) Use MASS LOADED VINYL with FOAM,The ONLY thing better is sheet lead. Did my whole cab took everything out except the dash.

2- Foam will absorb some sound and help insulate the cab from heat. Don't use bubble wrap stuff, Neoprene is great but its expensive. Its light... they use it on hot rods where they want some sound and insulation, but they need to keep it light. a 7000lb truck is not going to notice 100-200lbs of deadening.

3- LEAD and MLV actually block a portion of the sound by changing the soundwave into heat.

Address voids, Get an extra set of seals from the front cowl/hood and use it to block sound from engine compartment. Put a muffler on (towards the rear):tu:

And he is indeed right.
Combine the CLD tiles with the MLV (or any other diy barrier, as long as it's dense and pliable) and you will be way better of than covering the whole car in layers of deadener and/or foam. I'm still looking for alternatives to MLV to do the Jeep..old diesels aren't exactly quiet.

Mass by itself will be useful in the barrier (MLV) . You need to apply CLD to metal, to transform vibrations into heat. Barrier comes ontop of that :)

I have been looking into lizard skin. It's a sprayable coating. They have a ceramic heat barrier and a sound deadening as well. They can be used in conjunction. Haven't tried it yet but when I put my alarm and redo my stereo I am doing some kind of sound deadening.

IMO don't waste time with the liquid stuff. Lots and lots of work when you can easily apply some tiles.