After spending Tons of $$$ on isolators , 4 Cly. styles and 2 Pan Cake Styles i finally said screw it and went electronic

Yes the ~$215 Price tag on an Electronic FP gauge is enough to make anyone go Mechanical ,

Trust me this is 1 thing your better off Biting the bullet on and getting the electronic one .

Ive installed a bunch of each and the electronic one is better all the way around

DM

 

More stable, more accurate, and doest have live fuel running to the cab.

 

Mechanical with proper isolator and 50/50 mix in the line to the gauge always works for me. nothing to drain the battery or short out or whatever else a gizmo like that could do.
just a different opinion i guess.

 

mech with needle valve and s/s braided line, no problems at all, find the sweet spot on the needle valve opening and no noise or psi fluxuation at all, works for me for 50,000 miles.

 

Nothin but a braided line coming out of the fuel filter and my guage is outside the truck on my hood where I can watch it all the time. I won't run fuel inside my cab. No isolators, no needle valves, no vibrations and only the second guage since 1999 and 200,000 miles at $20 a piece.

 

Im different - I run fuel into the cab. Im using 1/4" Parker Paraflex tubing and Swagelok S.S. fittings.

My oil pressure is plumbed in with 1/2" S.S. braided hose.

Had it this way for quite some time - havent had a lick of trouble.

 

on the 12 or the 24v?

 

Is that to say that with an electric gauge, you don't need an isolator?

 

both