okay, so i just bought a 1995 K2500 VIN F

it would not start at all, so i charged the batteries and it finally cranked good.
it is getting fuel, (cracked the bleeder on fuel filter), and it has pressure.
cracked the injector line, and its getting a little fuel.
my first thought was the PMD, so i took the one from my RUNNING truck and plugged it in.
took about 2 mins with fully charged batteries, and i finally got it to kick over.
it was running very very rough (pop fart and spit every 5 secs) and then i kept it at about 2 grand and it would run fine.

so now i figured that hey, this runs let me take it down the street. drove it for about 2 miles, and sure enough it dies. would not start, cranked and cranked.
HOWEVER, i cracked the bleeder again, and air bubbles, but the fuel pump works.
so i cranked and cranked with the system bled, still nothing.
when i got it back home, i plugged it into the charger, and sure enough, started it up to put it away.

so with the good PMD, it still is having PMD related issues.

im guessing that the PMD was fryed because it was in the hot spot (manifold), so i used mine like a said.

the fuel shut off solenoid was replaced, along with the fuel pump relay, PMD (mine), and the OPS.

im thinking about trying the lift pump, the brain, and i dont belive its the sending unit if its getting clean fuel.

any help with this would be great i appriciate so much

 

Old fuel maybe

Check around fuel housing they are know to leak and can't see it with out removing lot time O-ring and seal for heater and water senter leaks suck air fast into the system

try unpluging the OS harness filter and just plug harness wires right bad in the IP

Other thing try is unplug the ECT start it see how idles

Check all the grounds

 

another update...

i jump the relay, and the fuel pump works. i put a brand new regular relay and i got under the truck and the lift pump has no power unless i have the jumper relay in.

 

OPS on 95 tell the LP to work and it will only do this when you have key in the run pos.

 

thanks crazy, i appiciate the knowledge

but what i ended up doing was running a jump wire from the radio to the lift pump, so this way it will run whenever the key is on, like an OBD II.

it does run now,

however, when i mash down on it it still feels like it is intermitting power, so im not sure if the lift pump is just not running to full potential, or the fuel filter is dirty, etc ill have to look today

any input would be great

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

So I drove it down the street today and it died again..
Thats with the hot wired pump..
So im thinkin about buying a new pump and another ops.

 

Did you try swapping the PMD. It starting to sound more like PMD if you hot wir the pump OSP won't shut down now


Call me if you want to

 

i did try that before i hot wired the pump. the only thing is, every time i crack the bleeder on the fuel filter, air shoots out then fuel.

 

look around fuel housing they like to leak around the fuel heater the O-ring goes bad check fuel lines right there also they get dry rotting over the yrs from heat

How the return lines look could be sucking air

It could be weak LP the only way for sure is to put fuel pressure gauge on it see what read at idle and under a load

 

where do i hook it up? the T valve right?

 

yes hook up on the T-Valve just take the drain line off and hook up there open the T-Valve and take for ride see what the PSI are under normal driving and with foot to the floor and at idle

at idle should be around 9 to 12 psi

normal driving 7 to 9 psi

foot to the floor 3.5 to 6 psi