Too late on replacing the head bolts. I now have exhaust pushing coolant out of my overflow.

I need input as to the best head gasket, copper sprayed or not, head studs, and any other ideas out there from keeping this from happening again.

EGR is bypassed, 5" straight exhaust, AFE cold air, H&S program on hot. This is as far as I am going. Do I really need the 625 studs?

Have read a lot about several re-torques after install of new gasket. What is the straight scoop.

I don't want to be here again................................

 

new cummins gasket no spray copper standard arps and yes at least three retorques after some heat cycles. Any plans for a different turbo in the future?

 

Get rid of your stock turbo! Your drive pressures are thru the roof. Get a 66mm on her and just by chance I have one for sell im goin bigger! The 6.7 will spool a 66 like a stock turbo

 

If you wanna lose the engine brake sure? How much boost are you seeing? Can't see them being that outa hand being that it's vgt

 

If he wants to keep blowing hg then sure keep the vgt pos. With 30 psi you will see 70 drive pressure and thats on the wild tune he is running the hot. 625 will not save you till you get rid of the stocker

 

you verified this with a drive pressure gauge? Just askin

didnt think itd be that far away from 1:1 ratio

just thinking out loud, what abt a external wastegate using the egr port on the manifold and dumping into the dp? Cheaper than a turbo if thats outa the question and want some peace of mind?

 

Drive pressure doesnt blow the headgaskets cylinder pressure does even the Egw(external waste gates) are just a band aid. And even after I put studs and ewg, and a silverbullet turbo I blew a headgasket.

 

drive pressure realates to cylinder pressure some, cant get it out fast enough

 

drive pressure is a "sign" of high cylinder pressure but not the cause of high cylinder pressure another words just relieving the pressure in the manifold will not fix the problem the amount of cylinder pressure the 6.7l makes is incredable. theres only so much air thats going to go out the exhaust valves however making the exhaust valves a little larger or having them open a little longer can make a difference on cylinder pressures.

 

what are "ARPS"

on re-torques, complete unload of each stud before going to 90 ftlbs?

anybody going slightly higher in torque?

why no copper?