hey guys, bought a 97 4d sb. i just put 4tb for exhaust, sounds great, BUT, when its cold, that valve right after the turbo, its like a butterfly valve, opens and closes, sounds like a damn 6.0 whens its closing. it literally almost kills the engine, at idle or cruising down the road. my question is can that be taken out? or is there anything else that can be done???

 

my friends is doing the same thing right now. its runs like **** and almost seems like the motor is running without a turbo. he is wanting to know how to fix this problem also

 

well i wouldn't totally get rid of it. A: you can wire it to a switch and use it as an exhaust break. it works pretty good. B: when you are looking at the engine, to the right of the turbo almost under the compressor housing is a 2 wire plug. just unplug it.

 

It closes when it is cold to make the engine work harder. It does this to warm the engine faster. You will notice that if you floor it, the valve will open and you will go like normal. When the valve is closed, it is a good reminder to take it easy on your cold engine. I recommend leaving it alone and letting it do it's job.

 

I was having the same issue on my '96. Even after I was at normal operating temp. it would lose half the power while I was holding stead throttle, no matter what speed. My mechanic told me that it was a dirty valve not closing all the way when it should. He has unplugged all of his and recommended I do the same. I live in Alaska and it runs just fine in sub zero weather. The plug is located under the intake port of the turbo.

 

Steady throttle is when it is designed to CLOSE. At steady throttle, you apparently have enough power to do what you are trying to do, or you wouldn't be at steady throttle. It is designed to not rob power if you really need it (full throttle).

It is NOT intended to make it run better in sub zero weather. It is intended to make it warm up faster.

If it was not closing all the way when it should, you would not notice it as much. It should stay OPEN when at normal operating temperature. If it does not, Something else is probably wrong. You need to verify that you are actually at operating temperature with something other than the stock coolant gauge. That needs to be compared to the actual oil temp. If you are not up to operating temp, you are not getting everything out of your engine. If you have a faulty temp sensor (there are three that I know of), this may cause your valve to close when not warranted. The faulty sensor would also have other adverse affects on performance through the programming.

If your mechanic isn't any smarter than the stupid valve, maybe it's time for a new mechanic

 

stating the obvious here but if you do delete the valve you cant plug it back in for any reason, its gone. if youre having major issues just unplug it for a while then plug it back in, you can unplug it pulled over on the side of the road, it takes longer to lock in manual hubs then to unplug that ebpv. like fordornothing said, it can be made into an exhaust brake. idk if youve seen the price of those but they arent cheap, our trucks have one built in, just some wire and a switch and youre set.

 

I put mine on a manual switch. I can start the truck, switch it on, and let it idle a few minutes. Get in, switch it off, and forget about it. Or switch it back on as I desire for some exhaust braking.

On my van I disconnected the linkage and used mechanics wire to hold it open.

This valve uses the exhaust backpressure sensor for feedback under normal/automatic mode. The sensor sits up by your hpop reservoir and is plumbed into your exhaust manifold. This sensor can go bad and/or the tube can clog which apparently can make the valve over-act. Something else to check if you don't want to go manual.

 

just unplug it and be done with it