94-98 12V Cummins 5.9L P7100 Tech Talk '94-'98 5.9L Cummins 12-Valve P-9100 Tech Articles

Installing Delivery Valves

 
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Old Sep 24, 2007 | 11:15 AM
  #1  
Whit's Avatar
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From: Why-homing
Default Installing Delivery Valves

Thanks to Piers

List of required tools:

1. ¾" open end wrench
2. 10mm socket
3. 7/16 deep socket
4. Delivery valve socket ( Special socket. Can be bought from PDR if needed. )
5. Torque wrench
6. Needle nose pliers
7. Dental pick ( for easier removal of gaskets-not required on most pumps )


Procedure:


1. Clean engine and pump area with cleaner and compressed air. Be sure to wear safety glasses. Cleanliness is very important.

2. Remove tin Valve cover and air intake horn and wires going to intake heater grid.

3. Remove injector lines. Keep lines together, unbolt clamps (two) where they connect to the cylinder head.


4. Do one barrel at a time. Use special socket to remove the barrel from the pump. Carefully lift out the barrel taking care not to drop spring and seat. See figure 2. Each seat is shimmed to that particular barrel. Do not mix up.






5. Use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull out the delivery valve.





6. Next pull out the delivery valve holder.





7. Some older 160hp pumps have copper gaskets under the delivery valve holder. See figure 5. Remove the gaskets. These are no longer used with your new delivery valves.

For most pumps which do not have gaskets,






8. Remove delivery valve from wax wrapping. Make sure its clean. Install the new valve into pump, as it was shipped. Install new o-ring from kit onto the barrel.


9. Now install your spring and seat assembly into the barrel, carefully install the barrel and spring and seat assembly back into the pump.


10. Tighten the barrel until it lightly seats in the pump.


11. With a torque wrench, in one smooth motion - torque to 85ft/lbs.


12. Repeat steps 4-11 on remaining barrels.


13. Reinstall injection lines, tighten lines on the pump, leaving the ones on the injectors finger tight


14. Replace wires to the grid heater.


15. Install air intake horn and tin valve cover


16. Attempt to start the engine. Do not crank engine for more than 20 seconds before allowing starter to cool for 2 minutes. Repeat this procedure once or twice more until you see some fuel at the injectors.


17. Tighten lines at the injectors. Go ahead and start the engine. Engine may run rough for a few seconds, then should smoothen out. Shut engine off, clean up any fuel leakage, restart engine and check for any leaks.


18. Go for a test drive and enjoy.
 
Old Mar 30, 2008 | 12:03 AM
  #2  
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Aaron
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From: nunya
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Nice write up Whit
 
Old Mar 30, 2008 | 12:27 AM
  #3  
Diesel Dawgs Performance's Avatar
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Thanks


Maybe we should have a How To Section
 
Old Mar 30, 2008 | 04:52 PM
  #4  
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ya that how to section ould be awsome
 
Old Mar 31, 2008 | 08:47 PM
  #5  
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Good writeup!
 
Old Mar 29, 2009 | 04:35 PM
  #6  
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From: greenbrier tn
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if i trade my factory dv's for some used cut dv's what all should i send him and get in return? such as washers and orings ect.
 
Old Mar 30, 2009 | 11:30 AM
  #7  
94 12valve's Avatar
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From: Pylesville, Maryland
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I use a magnet to get mine out
 
 
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