adjustable clutch rod
#5
And it even works exactly as advertised. I only push my clutch a few inches to be fully disengaged. Don't have to push it with my toe no more just to have the other pedals at a comfortable setting.
#7
#9
you could make a new slave cylinder rod for about a 1$ and make it the length were you want your pedal to start disengaging
SBC take the rod and machines it and adds the heim joint on it for adjustment and disengagement.Also the SBC hydraulics have the upgraded slave cylinder for the bigger single disc's and big doubles and use a braided hose instead of the cheap plastic one Ma Mopar uses which is prone to expanding when you engage a heavy double or big single,thus it never disengaging the same way each time.Peter has done his homework on this and there is nothing out there that even comes close and it is one of the best mods a stick guy can do..
You can sit in the seat of my truck and start the truck then depress the big double disc Haisley unit I have and it will engage as smooth or smoother than a single with less pedal pressure.I have had many guys argue with me on this and they have lost when they sat down and tried it.I have sought for years a way to have even engagement with smooth operation as I have knees that are about destroyed and will need replaced and this has made life with a stick very bearable..........Andy
#10
i also have the upgraded heavy duty hydros from valair.
master cylinder, resevoir, slave cylinder. im talking about the metal rod that the slave cylinder push and moves the clutch fork. if you were to shorten it the clutch would engage sooner. thats what i did. my clutch wasnt engaging untill the pedal was almost all the way out. it was making me nervous that the clutch wasnt engaging all the way. i cut off 3/8 of an inch off the steel rod. re ground the edges and put the plastic end back on it. now my clutch engages and disegages with the pedal 3/4 of the way out. im happy about it now.
master cylinder, resevoir, slave cylinder. im talking about the metal rod that the slave cylinder push and moves the clutch fork. if you were to shorten it the clutch would engage sooner. thats what i did. my clutch wasnt engaging untill the pedal was almost all the way out. it was making me nervous that the clutch wasnt engaging all the way. i cut off 3/8 of an inch off the steel rod. re ground the edges and put the plastic end back on it. now my clutch engages and disegages with the pedal 3/4 of the way out. im happy about it now.