The other day trying to go over 70 I was getting almost like a ticking noise under the hood, almost like it wasn't holding boost. Last night I had to get on the highway and a had trouble getting over 60 and the ticking was happening again. I just looked it over real good, and found a small puddle of like an oil/ diesel mixture behind the fuel bowl, Infront of the turbo. Any idea's what I might be looking at and if the could be the cause or something else? It won't fit in my garage so it's gonna have to wait to pull it in the shop at work. Just trying to figure out where to start.

Thanks, Dave

 

I have the same issue and I believe it's the drain valve is leaking that drains the fuel filter housing bowl

 

Before you open it up I suggest you get a drain valve o-ring kit and new fuel line for it. I had to search pretty hard to find one locally and it's pretty cheap to do

 

It is probably the fuel filter bowl restriction sensor, they're prone to leak. I just replaced mine a few months ago, here is a link to buy one at N.A.S Automotive.

FUEL FILTER RESTRICTION SENSOR

 

There's a few spots that commonly leak. One common is the seals on the fuel bowl drain as noted...

I ended up having to clean it up... Because if you just look at it after the fact, it looks like it's coming from everywhere... and that makes them hard to track down.

On my own truck, it would leak most just when I shut it down. So having a helper to start and shut it down for me helped me find my leaks.

Some people say the fuel filter restriction sensor was a weak spot... but servicing fleet trucks, the most common spots were the drain valve seals, other seals in the fuel bowl, the hoses and the banjo fittings. Most common problems with the seals were from either low-sulfur fuels or bio-fuel messing up the o-rings (replaced w/ vitron). I don't think "I" actually ever had to replace that sensor for a leak.

Most times, it will be a fuel leak, that dissolves any oil that has seeped over time up there and then it just looks like both... But sometimes there will be an oil leak. The most common oil leaks up there are from the seals in the high pressure oil lines where they connect to the HPOP. They are an easy fix if you can get your hands on the "right" tool to connect/disconnect the lines. Another spot is in the turbo housing, where the turbo mounts to the pedestal. There is a spot there where the TP38's tend to crack. That is not a good news thing if...

 

Hpop o rings

 

It's just been sitting for alittle while since I haven't been able to get it in the shop at work and it's been snowing non stop. I've driven it a couple times with no problem. But this morning I had a ticking that sounded like it was on the driver side of the motor and the truck won't go over 35. Can't get over 2k. Any ideas?

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And I don't think it's the drain valve because I'm not getting any fuel out of the hose, just on top of the motor

 

When the drain valve seals leak, it leaks where the shaft with the handle for it- to turn the valve to drain- where it comes out of the filter housing... So., it leaks out of the front passenger side of the fuel filter housing... It doesn't leak out of the drain hose like you thought.

Is for the ticking. I'm paranoid over those kinds of things. What kind of ticking? Can you describe it?

As for the not going over 35mph and over 2k in RPM... That would be normal if it was really cold, you started it up and didn't let it warm up before taking off. If the EOT is below 140*F, the EBP Valve is closed, shutting off the exhaust from the turbo. This is normal and is that way to help warm up faster. Of course there could be a problem with the EBPS or the tube for it being plugged if it's running really sucky during that time. The EBPS tube should be open (not plugged) to allow pressure to get to the EBPS to measure the exhaust back pressure, sends a sense voltage back to the PCM, hits the fuel tables and richens up the fuel mixture.

You could check the low-power condition next time it happens by disconnecting the plug to the EBP Regulator.

Me? I wired a circuit shutoff switch in mine. I have an LED in the feed, to show when there is voltage there. That tells me the EOT (Engine Oil Temp) is below 140*F. When I want to over-ride that, I open the switch. I have that same wire going back to the EBPV, wired through an Exhaust Brake circuit that includes a converter lockup circuit.