My nephew is serving in the USCG and next time he goes out to sea I am going to try and fix his '06. It is dumping oil from what almost looks like whee the timing case cover meets the engine block. I know this was an issue with the earlier 8.3 Cummins and the Cam had to come out. It's not the balancer seal and I don't think it it's the timing case front cover. Someone told me there is a plug by the PS pump that leaks oil ? Otherwise does the Cam have to come out to pull the timing case on this motor ?
Is this a common thing to happen ? it's a bad leak.

 

Here's some pics.

 

Its hard to say from pictures. Might recommend a good wash up, then dye the oil. Ive had common rail head gaskets leak oil out the front, timing covers leak, cp3 oring leaking. Dye will allow you to find it with a uv light pretty easily.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

 

Start with what he said^^ Find the highest leak that's where it's coming from! If it is the back timing housing yes the cam has to come out! BUT I would look for loose bolts first! If that's not it then a cam swap would be a great reason to tear it down!

 

it could be the head gasket. Howmuch of a ***** is that to do on a CR ?

 

Thats a pie job make sure you have the head surfaced and use a cummins gasket in accordance with your machine work. Do you plan to build the truck? Might consider o-rings and studs.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

 

Thanks. No he is in the USCG and has no money. He has a tuner on it which I already ripped into him about. Not sure which one but the oil leak started before the tuner. How heavy is that head ? Would I need an engine hoist ? Also what about the valve train ? Is there lash that needs to be set ? What should I know ? I have worked on MAck, Cat Detroit(Old 2 strokes) Deutz and GM dinosaurs so I know my way around but with any new venture I'd rather know of any tricks ahead of time. I would probably Do the Studs. I was never a fan of TTY bolts. I have never messed with a CRD fuel system so I think that is where my caution lies.

 

For the fuel lines I would mark each line in order, and for the injector tubes they make a tool that threads on to the tube so you can use a screw driver to pop em out with out messing up anu threads on the tube. I know snap on makes one and some various diesel sites sell them also. I haven't had much expierence in this just know some general knowledge.

 

X2. The head is heavy but we usually lift them out by hand and set them by hand but we use 3 people. We've tried it both ways and I feel much more comfortable after doing a couple this way. If your by yourself you'll need hoist.
Use a cummins gasket and have a knowledgeable machine shop check the head, install valve stem seals while its off. Here's a article to help, if you know some basics it might help you decide if your machine shop is qualified.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...s__blocks.aspx

I do a leak down test after removing the pushrods, intake horn and exhaust. If you loose much air into the intake or exhaust valves you should ( or should have it done ) grind the valves. We also use 3m plastic rolock disc. They're Safe even on very thin aluminum when used correctly.
Be ready to replace some rockers. If the pivot it tight in the rocker or hard to turn they'll need to be repaired or replaced.
Required parts will be:
Oil change
Coolant (if you cant save it)
Brake clean
Exhaust gaskets
Valve stem seals
Plenum gasket
Intake horn gasket
Head gasket
Head bolts
Straight edge (to check block)


Hope this helps
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

 

Motor only has 80k miles on it. I was surprised to see a failure already.
What is the best thing to use for dye testing that won't hurt the motor ? I have dye tested a/c but never engine oil.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Are the inj cups like on a Dmax where it's a bitch to get them back in without leaking ?