Used motor oil
 

im getting ready to start running used motor oil but i have a few questions before i do so.

What would be the max % of used oil i could run?

would filtering to 2 micron be good enough?

i did some more looking and found the answers to my questions

What did you find out?

Found that some people run up to 90% oil in the summer months, and filtering down to 2m should be good enough if it is filter several times.

I wouldn't run used motor oil or tranny fluid in these newer diesels. In the older ones I wouldn't be afraid to run used motor oil in the tank.

Let me ask you a simple question. Why do you have a two micron limit? It is known by fact that particles around 1 micron do the most harm.
This size rips out other particles and is called the Avalanche effect. You will find this information from the Mann+ Hummel filter company.

By the way: 2 micron is also the measuring limit. You get difficulties to measure smaller than two microns.
Do a search and inform yourself about tolerances in an IP or Injector. You will be amazed how tight they are.

Thanks for the info, i have a supply of 2m filters is why i asked about it. also im running this in the 12 valve

motor oil in fuel
 

I have not run motor oil in my fuel.
But a friend of mine has been doing it for 2 years now in his 96 12v cummins. He runs a 50/50 mix. He has not had any issues other than the smell of exhaust is not pleasant. I do not know details about his filtering system.
My brother has also run a small amoount in his 92 on occasion.

thanks for all the info guys i bought some 1m filters for the final stage:tu:

update
 

Spoke with my friend Sunday who runs the motor oil. He said #1 make sure you give your oil a chance to settle out. This will eliminate most of the problems he has had. The raw motor oil should settle in a tank, then draw the best off the top portion to use for your mix.

Good luck...:tu:

Let us know if you have good or bad results....:pca1:

wmo watf
 

I've run both,for performance I love waft.WMO is embrassing to drive around.Smell like you never a overhaul.You can blend 10% and not stink up the world.I also don't use used diesel oils because of black carbon.This carbon will act like lapping compound in your IP.I've used gasser oil up to 50%.
WATF though is rocket fuel for a diesel just filter and use.WMO is better for waste oil heaters,and Tugboats.

I think it is depends on the quality of the oil and oils ability to keep engine clean, i think 3 microns could be better enough to keep engine clean and run smoothly.
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from what I have been reading here and on other posts there seems to be a consensus that .5 microns is the standard because of the tolerances in the injectors and the ip I am personally going to filter at .5 twice before I blend and if you use a dual tank with a heated system you can run up 90% if it is heated to 180 degrees if any one is doing this I would be intrigued on how you do your settling system and filtering and when I get mine set up I will do the same I also found this on ebay for the water

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I like his dewatering socks and they are resueable

I bought his book on used oil good read

Dennis

Do you use pressurized filter, or just let it drain through?

to all,

fwiw, i have a 1991 F-250, 7.3L IDI, with NO turbocharger.

is anyone here running such a IH-engined rig on STRAIGHT/filtered WMO
&
if so how many THOUSAND miles have you done so?

yours, tn46

My 15 micron is a gravity flow,next 5 micron,then final stock 10 micron..5 would be good for a bag filter,but one on vehicle would starve the IP.

I can't use motor oil on my 2008 6.4 POWERSTROKE DIESEL for fuel, I think modern diesel engine with DPF will have problems:s:

Thanks OS111. My son works at a parts store, so I can get a little extra sometimes. Just wanna know how to filter it.

I ussally run gasser oils,as the keep my fuel where I can see through it.
I,m going to experiment on used diesel oil and see if I can water wash it.:c:

oldsinner111,

please let us/me know how that works out & how you did it. - at the current price of "pump diesel", i'm thinking seriously about using WMO, suitably filtered, for fuel for my 1991 Ford F-250 IDI.

yours, tn46

Here's what happens when you don't filter WMO and it has a little water in it. The pic is blurry but that is baked on carbon covering all but one hole on these two. These clogged up in less than 200 miles. All six were like this and it still ran but it smoked a lot and every color.

Are those injector nozzles,or glow plugs?

Those are injectors out of my 1st gen 12 valve. I think the lower pop pressure has something do do with them plugging up. I've never had problems running bad oil in the p-pump engines.

i have never heard of this do you have to modify the truck to do this i run a 93 12 v

filter it make sure you run the oil across magnets get your viscosity right and run it winter you will want a 2 tank sys

i ran a FULL TANK (99-100%) of WMO and it ran just fine.... smelt bad.... but it ran fine and power was decent....

I have been running waste oil mix for a year now in my 6liter powerstrokes. I run anywhere from 50/50 to 75/25 and filter to 2 microns. I have found that I can cure a bad injector by switching to biofuel. The trucks run way better and much quieter on the waste oil. I live in Alaska and used the fuel 100% through the winter, down to -40 below with no problems. I have recently learned that my 03 and 05 6liters are euipped with fuel heaters and a recirculation module that redirects the warmed return fuel back to the engine when it is cold out. I am looking for a way to keep the fuel heater on all the time as well as keeping the recirculation valve open all the time. If anyone has any experience with altering an existing HFCM, please let me know. I will post another reply when I figure out how to improve the HFCM for any other biofuel people.

hey guys. where can i get filters to make my own set up...i haven't been able to locate any or i'm not looking in the right spots

Hears the easiest way, get some 10" whole house water filter housings, put them in a series of 2 or 3...

this is what i built.....
I have mine setup with 3 and one by itself before the pump. 20-30 micron filter before the pump then 5 mic spun to a 3 mic carbon to 1 micron wound filter...
Before it goes through the final 3 it gets heated in a 55 gal drum for a few hours by a water heater element that is wired into a temp control, i welded near the bottom to help settle the water out and it does a good job of blending.. at the same time its being heated i also run it threw my centrifudge. i use a soda pump to supply the 90psi and loop the bypass back into the pre filter that way it all goes threw the centrifudge. i do this for a could of hours 2-3 times in a week period. I also bowed out the bottom of the drum so i has a low point where i welded on a valve to drain off water and the junk in the bottom. My pickup or suction side of the pump is 5 inches off the bottom to...
so all i have to do is pour in my oil and whatever additive (kero or diesel and a few ounces of acetone) into the drum. let it sit for a day or 2 drain out any water. plug it in to warm it up, come back in an hour, kick on the pump and run the centrifudge for a few hours. the oil draws from the lower part of the drum, threw the pre-filter, then the pump, then up into the centrifudge and back into the drum... once i have done this a few times over a couple of days, i close the valve to the centifudge and open the vavle to my final filters( 5-3-1 micron) then it goes into a storage tank for use. this is all on a cart so its portable. I also have a second tank on the cart tied into the system i can pump into and pull from if i need to for doing 2 seperate batches. I am going to add a cheap metal bodied oil filter in the system so i can cover it with magnets to catch metal fragments and just take the magnets of and throw the filter away ever 200-300 gallons. I also want to try and throw a coeleser filter in the system to see if it helps with water although im not having much trouble with that.

So far this setup works pretty damn good and it needs to because im building a 2 tank heated WMO setup for my cummins CRD. I also have a 2 micron fleet gaurd filter after my stock filter to help even further. my experiment fuel mixer is going to be 15 gal of WMO 20 gal of WATF and 5 gallons of Kero to help thin and then 5-8 ounches of acetone to lower the flash point. should have a decent viscosity, good cleaning agents and good lubricating factors.

My friend has been running his 99 Cummins on 100% with a 2 tank system with no issues so far... but he does have a P7100 on his 24v :choochoo: almost cant tell a difference besides the smell.

and ofcourse everyone knows this is for off road use only........:w2:

ill see if i can get some pics of my processor up here

I just started running WMO in my truck. 02 CTD. I store it in a 60 gallon tank, (old air compressor tank) use air pressure to push it out the bottom where the drain for the water is, through a 15 micron Goldenrod water block filter, from there is goes into my 55 gallon drum where I will heat it for a few days to get any stray water out of the mix. Once this is heated it really holds heat for a while, like at least 30 hours it will stay over 120*. Once it cools to room temp, I mix in Diesel Kleen and it depends on what I am using for my other mixer. If mostly WMO I will mix in Unleaded gas at a 20% mix. If using ATF I mix in 20% gas and 30% #2. Then I will centrifuge it for about a total of 10 hours. With it mixed it is thin enough that it doesn't have to be heated again. I have about 1000 miles doing this so far, the only thing I notice is a little more smoke while cold in the morning, and my fuel pressure will stay between 10-15 psi. Once it warms up everything seems fine, maybe the Diesel Kleen is a little overkill but I figure it can't hurt. I am by no means an expert, just a hobbyist, but it took a big set of attachments for the first guy to say...you see that there propane tank...I bet I can run my truck on it.

that sounds pretty good, i'd still take it down alittle lower micron with your filter to be safe.... your fuel filter might last longer... thats a pretty strong mix with unleaded.. might try kero, thins really good and helps settle sediment faster. from what i've read gas lowers the cetane rating especially the higher octane you go. but if your not having any troubles then it must be working!!!!

Used motor oil
 

I been running W_O in both my trucks at about a 60-1 ratio for between 3-4 years now. I use it as a fuel additive, not fuel. The most important filter is a 2mic filter thats been in service on the truck for over a year. That's the one that really gets the small stuff before your engine sees it. My fuel filters run a 3 year cycle.

Im still learning and gathering as much info that I can get. I feel safe with a 50/50 mix of WMO to #2. I have read on some other fourms that most people are running W85. 85% oil and 15% RUG. I just haven't worked up to that, I like the idea of using K1 for a thinner. I just picked up 60 gallons of ATF that I'm still figuring out what to cut it with. It's alot thinner then WMO to begin with so I was thinking K1 or #2 for that.

I would try kero, i'm having good luck with it! you could also mix alittle WMO in with it too. If your heating it you could run that ATF straight no problem. if you went 75% ATF and 25% WMO and throw in 5 gallons of kero per 50 gallons it should be close to diesel for viscosity

I'm heating it so I can centrifuge it. I had about 25 gallons of WMO left in my processing tank that was already cleaned, so I took you advice and did 2.5 gallons of K1 and about 5 gallons of #2. I'm going to run the ATF through my system this weekend and preclean it. I don't like putting my thinner in while I heat it because I don't want it to evaporate out before I use it. Usually when I get to within a day of needing to fuel again I will add my thinner and recirc the oil in my process tank to mix it. Im filling up tonight so I will post back about how it runs. On a side note, I've read a couple forum post about people mixing RC car fuel. At a ratio of 1.5 oz per gallon. Once Im a little more comfortable with my WMO set up I will try this and post my results:humm:

RC fuel sounds interesting.... I found a source of mineral oil but not sure as to how it burns? As far as the thiners, i would def add the K1 in while ur processing, not omy does it thin and help speed the process of cleaning the oil and settling out the junk. take some K1 and put in a small container and put alittle coolant/dirt, ect... and see how fast it settles to the bottom and stays there. as long as you dont super heat it it shouldnt evaporate.

Second note, I got my common rail up and running on %75 WMO/ATF two tank system
:jump: running good so far

I installed rebuilt injectors in my 6.2 back in the fall and ran about 40 gallons of ~80/20 WMO/RUG. I have been doing some other work on the truck and have not driven it much. I made myself a pop tester and checked the injectors last week, as it has had a rough idle and miss. I do not remember exactly how it ran right after the injectors were installed. Anyway, one was definitely bad-- started peeing at ~1500, while all 7 others were a fairly nice spray at about 1900. However, all of them had the hole that is about 3/16 inch in the end almost completely carboned up with just a pinhole open. What is the best way to clean them first, and second, I expected them to carbon up, but maybe in 10K miles or so, not about 600. I am wondering about trying 80/20 and then mixing that with D2 at maybe 60/40 or so. (40%D2). Any suggestions or comments. I am going to try to make a mix with part WATF,but it is somewhat harder to come by than WMO right now, and I have a bunch of WMO that I need to use up. The truck is a N/A 6.2 so pulling the injectors out and cleaning them is not that big a deal, and I wouldn't mind doing so every 4-5K, considering the fuel savings, but having them carbon up before even using up using one full tank is a bit much.

Update to my 08/2011 post. After much experimenting......no more gas/RUG. I didn't like the way the truck ran on a RUG/WMO mix. Now my process uses either 5-8 gallons of D2 or K1. That goes into a 55 gallon drum then I run my used oil through a 10 micron filter and fill the drum. This makes the mix thin enough to centrifuge without using heat. I had some smoke issues this summer while running RUG mix. I found that when I was doing more city driving, and not using enough of the go pedal it would smoke like a freight train. I was out driving along a long straight country road, and just so happen to come up behind Ms. Daisy, when the traffic was clear I passed her going from about 25mph-65mph ( speed limit was 55) lots of smoke, lots of heat, egts were up around 1200*. After that...no more smoke. Now during the winter I only run about 5 gallons of homebrew at a time. Fill my tank up, drive about 100-120 miles then add my mix. This is just my experience, like they say on infomercials, you results my vary.

Are you running a 24valve Cummins? I would never run anyting but the best D2 I couild buy if I had one of those. I hear they are fantastic as to power and economy, but when it breaks----!! I recently put about 15 gal of 80/20 in another 6.2 I have and it smoked so bad I hated to drive, or even start, it. It had the power of a 4 cylinder-maybe. But it was that way before also. I got a set of used injectors off EBay for $15 including shipping.Put them in and the smoke pretty much went away and power increased a lot. The tips of the injectors I took out were nearly carboned completely over. I pop tested one or two and as I recall the pressure was ok and they didnt pee. The first truck I was talking about still has a lope at idle and a miss, after injectors, pump and timing chain. There is a tick/click that sound like it is coming from the top on the drivers side, but we are going to make sure with a stethascope, then pull the valve cover if that is indeed where it is coming from. I had them off not long ago-between the IP/injector replacement and the timing chain. I looked at the rocker arms. pushrods etc. but I guess not close enough. I'll give it another compression test also. Last Aug I started out on a trip in it runiing on 50/50 WMOandWATF/D2-- went about 300 miles running great. Stopped and had lunch, looked everything over and took off. Went about another hour and the trans started acting up. I was able to turn around and make it home at about 50mph and 3500rpm. It seemed to start the miss and also a vibration then. I was blaming the vibration on the trans, but the torque converter was replaced and the trans gone through several times and the vibration at higher rpm is still there. I'm thinking maybe a valve spring?? Opinion/suggestions welcome.If and when I get this thing running right I don't think I'm going to try anymore straight 80/20 in it. I am curious though, about how quickly carbon builds up on the injector tips on straight D2. Maybe the mix didnt carbon them up any or much faster than normal. I guess I'll find out in due time/

I'm really looking forward to pulling the head off one of my trucks one of these days for whatever reason just to see if the water/meth keeps the combustion chambers as clean as I believe it does.

But OTOH, nothing will overcome an excessive amount of crap being run through there and not completely burned, either.