Here's what happens when you don't filter WMO and it has a little water in it. The pic is blurry but that is baked on carbon covering all but one hole on these two. These clogged up in less than 200 miles. All six were like this and it still ran but it smoked a lot and every color.

Are those injector nozzles,or glow plugs?

Those are injectors out of my 1st gen 12 valve. I think the lower pop pressure has something do do with them plugging up. I've never had problems running bad oil in the p-pump engines.

i have never heard of this do you have to modify the truck to do this i run a 93 12 v

filter it make sure you run the oil across magnets get your viscosity right and run it winter you will want a 2 tank sys

i ran a FULL TANK (99-100%) of WMO and it ran just fine.... smelt bad.... but it ran fine and power was decent....

I have been running waste oil mix for a year now in my 6liter powerstrokes. I run anywhere from 50/50 to 75/25 and filter to 2 microns. I have found that I can cure a bad injector by switching to biofuel. The trucks run way better and much quieter on the waste oil. I live in Alaska and used the fuel 100% through the winter, down to -40 below with no problems. I have recently learned that my 03 and 05 6liters are euipped with fuel heaters and a recirculation module that redirects the warmed return fuel back to the engine when it is cold out. I am looking for a way to keep the fuel heater on all the time as well as keeping the recirculation valve open all the time. If anyone has any experience with altering an existing HFCM, please let me know. I will post another reply when I figure out how to improve the HFCM for any other biofuel people.

hey guys. where can i get filters to make my own set up...i haven't been able to locate any or i'm not looking in the right spots

Hears the easiest way, get some 10" whole house water filter housings, put them in a series of 2 or 3...

this is what i built.....
I have mine setup with 3 and one by itself before the pump. 20-30 micron filter before the pump then 5 mic spun to a 3 mic carbon to 1 micron wound filter...
Before it goes through the final 3 it gets heated in a 55 gal drum for a few hours by a water heater element that is wired into a temp control, i welded near the bottom to help settle the water out and it does a good job of blending.. at the same time its being heated i also run it threw my centrifudge. i use a soda pump to supply the 90psi and loop the bypass back into the pre filter that way it all goes threw the centrifudge. i do this for a could of hours 2-3 times in a week period. I also bowed out the bottom of the drum so i has a low point where i welded on a valve to drain off water and the junk in the bottom. My pickup or suction side of the pump is 5 inches off the bottom to...
so all i have to do is pour in my oil and whatever additive (kero or diesel and a few ounces of acetone) into the drum. let it sit for a day or 2 drain out any water. plug it in to warm it up, come back in an hour, kick on the pump and run the centrifudge for a few hours. the oil draws from the lower part of the drum, threw the pre-filter, then the pump, then up into the centrifudge and back into the drum... once i have done this a few times over a couple of days, i close the valve to the centifudge and open the vavle to my final filters( 5-3-1 micron) then it goes into a storage tank for use. this is all on a cart so its portable. I also have a second tank on the cart tied into the system i can pump into and pull from if i need to for doing 2 seperate batches. I am going to add a cheap metal bodied oil filter in the system so i can cover it with magnets to catch metal fragments and just take the magnets of and throw the filter away ever 200-300 gallons. I also want to try and throw a coeleser filter in the system to see if it helps with water although im not having much trouble with that.

So far this setup works pretty damn good and it needs to because im building a 2 tank heated WMO setup for my cummins CRD. I also have a 2 micron fleet gaurd filter after my stock filter to help even further. my experiment fuel mixer is going to be 15 gal of WMO 20 gal of WATF and 5 gallons of Kero to help thin and then 5-8 ounches of acetone to lower the flash point. should have a decent viscosity, good cleaning agents and good lubricating factors.

My friend has been running his 99 Cummins on 100% with a 2 tank system with no issues so far... but he does have a P7100 on his 24v :choochoo: almost cant tell a difference besides the smell.

and ofcourse everyone knows this is for off road use only........:w2:

ill see if i can get some pics of my processor up here

I just started running WMO in my truck. 02 CTD. I store it in a 60 gallon tank, (old air compressor tank) use air pressure to push it out the bottom where the drain for the water is, through a 15 micron Goldenrod water block filter, from there is goes into my 55 gallon drum where I will heat it for a few days to get any stray water out of the mix. Once this is heated it really holds heat for a while, like at least 30 hours it will stay over 120*. Once it cools to room temp, I mix in Diesel Kleen and it depends on what I am using for my other mixer. If mostly WMO I will mix in Unleaded gas at a 20% mix. If using ATF I mix in 20% gas and 30% #2. Then I will centrifuge it for about a total of 10 hours. With it mixed it is thin enough that it doesn't have to be heated again. I have about 1000 miles doing this so far, the only thing I notice is a little more smoke while cold in the morning, and my fuel pressure will stay between 10-15 psi. Once it warms up everything seems fine, maybe the Diesel Kleen is a little overkill but I figure it can't hurt. I am by no means an expert, just a hobbyist, but it took a big set of attachments for the first guy to say...you see that there propane tank...I bet I can run my truck on it.