Governor Spring
 

how hard is it to replace the stock governor spring with the 4Gsk

It's not hard. I can change the springs and adjust the idle in 30-45 minutes. The worst part is removing the plug on the pump. It can be tricky sometimes.

With 4k gsk, would you need to put in some 60lb valve springs?

We recommend 60 lb. valve springs for anything over 3250 rpm.

ya its not required but you should just dont excede the rpm rating with out them so how do you install them and whay are there so many

CAUTION:If you intend to operate the engine over 3200 rpm, you should replace the engine valve springs with a heavy-duty type.

Estimated completion time: (First time installer) 1.5 hours

Things you will need to complete this project:
1. 7/16" deep socket
2. 3/8" drive and ratchet
3. 10mm six point socket, 3/8" drive w/extensions
4. 8mm, 6-point 1/4" or 3/8" drive socket
5. Pliers and Pencil magnet (A magnet is VERY helpful!!)
6. Medium to large flat-blade screwdriver
7. Slim, long, flat-blade screwdriver
8. Vernier Calipers
9. 8mm Allen wrench
10. 7/8" Socket
11. Tape or clean towel to block openings
12. Fender covers (optional)

Cleanliness counts! Clean engine to keep debris and foreign objects from entering engine.

1. READ all the directions before beginning the installation.

2. Set parking brake. Automatic transmissions must be in park, manual transmissions must be in neutral.

3. Protect paint and batteries with covering

4. Using a 7/16" deep socket, loosen lower clamp on upper intake connection hose and slide lower clamp off of hose and down the steel tube out of the way.

5. Remove the six bolts holding the air intake connection and dipstick tube in place using a 10mm 6-point socket. The bolts are different lengths. They must be replaced in the correct position.

6. Remove intake manifold connection and hose as a unit. The gasket must not be damaged in this process. It can be reused but must be replaced if damaged.

7. Cover the air tube and manifold openings to keep foreign objects from falling into them.

8. There are three bolts holding the fuel shutoff solenoid & bracket to the injection pump, two on top of the AFC housing & one at the back of the pump. Remove these three bolts & the hairpin that holds the solenoid rod to the pump linkage.

9. After removing solenoid you will see a plug nut, using a 7/8" socket, loosen this plug nut. You will have to hold the linkage over to one side so you can get enough clearance to totally remove plug nut.

10. Bar (roll) the engine over until the governor spring adjusting nut comes into view, center it in the hole. Note the position and mark it.

11. Using the Vernier calipers, measure the distance from the top of the governor stud to the top of the governor spring adjusting nut. Record this measurement for the reassembling.

12. Remove the spring retainer and all inner springs (leave large spring in place). Remove inner spring seat assembly at the bottom of the bore and remove any shims that are installed. Check for shims stuck to the springs or seats. Do not reinstall shims as are they are no longer required. Use only the springs contained in your new kit. Do not reuse any of your original springs other than the large spring left in place at the beginning of this step.

13. Install new lower spring seat and springs. Install upper spring seat and adjusting nut. Adjust to the measurement noted at disassembly.

14. Bar engine over until opposite governor spring set is in position. Repeat steps 12-13.

15. Reinstall plugnut, fuel solenoid and bracket.

16. Remove air tube and manifold coverings.

17. Reinstall intake manifold connection and hose.

18. Start engine and check idle speed. A variation of plus or minus 50-60 RPM is normal and we recommend that this be adjusted using the idle screw.


Who put in the 4k's listed in your signature???

i put it in my sig because i have the set its just not in yet

Oh ok!!

Well, enjoy your springs! They will make your truck even more fun to drive!!

thats what i want that and the power

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

ok the kit i have came with six springs and 2 plate looking things, i know that you place the medium sized one inside the big one and the small one in the medium one and then you place that washer hing on the base but what i dont get is why there are two sets do you place the other set the same way just on top or what?

Do you have stock springs in there now or do you have a 3k kit in??

the springs are stock now

Ya your Signature is very confusing lol

why is my sig confusing

Usually what people list in there Signature is what they have on there truck already. It helps us know what ya got so we can help ya better. I mean if you need help and I read you got a Industrial Injection Turbo and a 4GKS and you dont have them it can really change how we would try and help ya.

i have the governor spring but its not in yet and the turbo i got rid of

Remove the stock springs only. Leave everything else in the pump but the top "nut".

Insert the base on the stud and let it drop down on the shaft of the threaded rod.

Next, insert the smallest spring, then the medium spring, & finally the largest spring. Be sure they seat correctly and install the large flat (stock) washer on top and tighten the nut to the same tension as the stock springs.

That should do it!

so then why did it come with two sets

I think you need to post a pic of what you are working with. Who makes the set you bought??

everything ended up comming directly from industrial injection here are some pics

Put the part that you are holding in the picture on the stud wide side down, then put in your springs.

the small in the medeum and then big over that? do i install both sets or just one

Put the base (part you are holding in the pics) on the stud. Then put in the small spring, followed by the medium spring, and finally the largest spring. Put the stock top washer nut on to the same tension as stock, usually 2 "clicks".

Then bar the engine over (it's best to have a buddy help you so you can watch inside the pump) until you see the other stud come around, remove the stock stuff, install the base, springs and top washer. Replace the plug on the pump, start the truck, and adjust the idle.

"Then bar the engine over (it's best to have a buddy help you so you can watch inside the pump) until you see the other stud come around, remove the stock stuff, install the base, springs and top washer. Replace the plug on the pump, start the truck, and adjust the idle."


what do you mean by bar the engine over
soory ive never doen this before

Rotate the engine over.. Or crank it over, by hand, not with the starter.
A 15mm works well on the vibration dampner bolts.

oh ok so thats why it came with two sets of springs

Right! There are 2 studs in the pump and each of them need the springs on them. Good Luck!!

thanyou for explaining it to me i let you know the outcome of it

ok guys i got the springs put in today and started up and dies. i know you have to adjust the idal but cant figure out how. any info would be awsome and pictures would be even better.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

any information would be great right now

The idle screw is on the back end of the pump it takes a 10mm. the bolt runs up and down you should be able to see how the linkage rides on the bolt. I'll see if I can find ya a pict..

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

here ya go..

Ram Diesel Problems

ok got everything diled in after i put the large springs back in the pump and it runs top notch now

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

one last question is the truck suposed to buck at all leaving gears because she does and on dirt roads with alot of pot holes. it never did it befor i put the springs in

It will be touchy the problem is your foot..

benjamin or hotmopar you got anything

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

well touchy is definatly the word for it, you hit a bump and the damn thing is like a bull at the rodeo

You can try loosening them one click.

would that make a difference i dont remember how many i went if i remomber right i went 4 clicks. whn you go by clicks is when you feel any click or are the first soft clicks all you tighten them

how about a 1/2 turn..

you mean back it off half a turn its such a pain in the ass to have to pull all that stuff off again

What did you have to pull off? Yes backed off. Or just drive it for awhile and see if you get used to it. thats what I did..

i had to pull the intake off and the fuel shutdown selinoid its not that bad but its a pain in the ass, and to have to bar the engine by yourself

Nice Tuck
 

Your truck sounds good, I drive a 97 cummins and she has #5 Fuel Plate, 475 injectors, 4 inch turbo-back side dump exhaust, aurora 4000 turbo, k&n intake, ats manifold, and a lil tweaks to the pump. And what kind of intake manifold would recommend for cooling the truck?

ats arc flow or the s&b intake. i would go with s&b personally