Turning Up A 12 Valve
 

Ok, ive searched though here figuring id find a thread on this but couldnt find one.

A buddy just bought a '98 12v and he wants to turn it up. I would like to find detailed instructions on how to turn up a p-pump. From turning the starwheel to grinding the fuel plate, everything. Pics would be great too.

Thanks in advance.

Take a look here:

https://www.dieselbombers.com/94-98-12v-cummins-5-9l-p7100-tech-talk/3730-adjusting-replacing-p7100-fuel-plate.html

https://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-12v-performance/103-cheap-mods-stock-truck-thread.html

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/power_p7100.htm


http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...teprofiles.jpg

hmmmmm there's too much to type.... i can walk you through it over the fone.... it's simpler said than typed...... i can get you a nice chunk for free..... pm me if'n noone else post up for my number....

When I ground my plate I used a 90* air powered die grinder with a cone shaped carbide bit. After I was done I used a wire wheel and sand paper to smooth it out perfectly. Alot of guys just use a grinding wheel. Use the chart above and make what you want. a 10 or 100 seem to be the most popular.

go 0 or go home.....lol get a pyro first.....

He wants to go all out. If he needs to buy a turbo to keep it cool he will. As for now, he wants fuel and lots of it.

lol lol yeah there's always that one too.

Wyo,

Get him to pinpoint a number first. 400, 500, 900? It's easier to tell you how to get there if we know the destination.

just take that plate out and through it away , thats about all the way u can go, some say its not good on the pump but wife had a 97 i had it out for 40k and buddy who bought it still has it out 2 years later:c:

Yea i agree thats the only way to go, then slide the AFC housing forward and take the spring out of the back of the housing

Thanks guys, we got her turned up, he just wanted to slide the plate up all the way for now. Way better power, barely any smoke. We'll probably be grinding the plate soon because he has the bug now lol.

I hope he has a pyro...

ya, but i got to thinkinhg the other day who actually watchtes it , im sure lots do wen towing but i really doubt any ever really watches it racing, lol i know i dont , i just always had them to be cool:c:

Well, we're ordering a pyro and clutch tomorrow. What is a good clutch that aint gonna kill the pocketbook?

I would just go ahead and get a south bend that way you wont have to worry.

I second that :U:

The steps for turning up a P7100 pump are:
1) Remove your AFC Housing
2) Mod Your Fuel Plate either slide it forward or purchase a cut one
3) Adjust the governor lever to contact the fuel plate
4) Crank the star Wheel Towards the motor
5) Slide The AFC housing all the way forward
Details Below......

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn01.gif First of all Know Your Pump
Only 1994-1998 trucks have the P7100 Pump
The Control Parts List number or CPL number is located on the engine data plate, which can be found on the drivers side of the timing gear cover. The engine data plate includes such information as the CPL number, engine serial number, and pump timing information.
AFC Removal


http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn02.gif If you do almost any pump work you have to take the AFC housing off.
Remove front passenger side AFC housing break off screw. NOTE: This screw is a factory break off screw with rounded head and no screw driver, allen head or TORX slot. Use a hand impact tool with a 6 inch long 1/4" extension and a T15 TORX bit to remove this screw. A center punch may be required to start a hole in the center of this screw. Set the hand impact tool in the removal position (counter clockwise) and use light hammer taps on the impact tool to loosen this screw. Tap progressively harder on the impact tool until the screw loosens. This method of removal forms a TORX shape into the screw allowing it to be reinstalled later with the T15 TORX bit. In some cases the hole in the top of this screw is too large for the T15 bit thus use the T20 TORX bit. There is usually a lock washer and flat washer under each of these screws. OPTIONAL: A sharp chisel can be used to remove the break off screw by making a notch in the outside diameter of the head, then applying a tangential force with light blows to the chisel counterclockwise to remove the screw.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn03.jpg AFC Cut Away

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn04.gif Fuel Plate


http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn05.gif With the AFC housing removed you can now see the fuel plate .
Sliding the stock plate will increase HP quite a bit. However, the stock plate profile is not designed for that so the result is usually EGT problems. Home ground plates are not a good idea either. Pump experts say to NEVER remove the plate completely. There is a pin in the pump that will eventually wear and break causeing very expensive damage. Slide the plate ATW Foward and if you still want more contact TST for a Cut Plate , they will recommend one for your truck

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn06.JPG This is what it looks like under the fuel plate
Governor Lever Adjustment


http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn07.jpg This is a cut away view of the governor of a P7100 pump. Notice how the lever hit the cam plate flush at the very bottom edge. To check your adjustment the throttle lever needs to be moved until the lever just touches the cam plate. With the AFC housing removed, look down through the opening behind the cam plate and see where the lever is striking the plate. This should be done with the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid in the run ( or pulled up ) position.
Where the lever strikes the cam plate will vary depending on the style and design of the cam plate you are using. For plates similar to the stock plate, like shown below, this lever is set correctly. It is adjusted so the lever is flush with the bottom edge of the plate, and does not ride under the plate.
(Picture Courtesy of BD Power)

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn08.jpg For cam plates, like a TST #6 for example, that have a taper at the very bottom of the plate, adjust the lever so the lever hits at the tip of the bottom nose on the plate. It is OK to be slightly below that. However too far down causes the lever to be held back as the RPM's rise. This causes the loss in bottom end power, with the sudden surge as the lever finally clears the nose and hits the main fueling curve.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn09.jpg

This is what the pump looks like from the back with the cover removed. Do not change the adjustment in the upper right hand corner. The adjustment in the lower left hand corner is the one to make. Loosen the locknut ( 10mm socket required ). Making very small adjustments to the screw, adjust the lever the proper height. Now tighten the locknut.
One thing to realize about the plate is that it is properly called a full load throttle stop. What this means is that if you are not running at WOT or close to it the plate is not doing anything. It's just taking up space in the pump.
Star Wheel Adjustment


http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn10.gif To adjust, remove the large plug on top of the AFC housing using an 8 mm allen wrench. Take care not to loose the sealing washer under the plug. Removing the plug exposes a star wheel which changes the quickness of fueling response to boost. If acceleration is weak with minimal smoke, rotate top of the star wheel toward the engine a few revolutions. If vehicle has heavy black smoke on initial acceleration, rotate top of star wheel away from engine a few revolutions. Reinstall large plug with sealing washer and test drive vehicle again. It may take repeated attempts to get this adjustment set. If heavy smoke is still encountered with star wheel moved completely to rear position, loosen AFC housing and slide it rearward a 1/16 inch, retighten and test again. Repeat unit desired results occur.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn11.jpg
http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn12.jpg

Great detailed explanation with pics DieselMinded.:U:

thanks a lot guys, everything i wanted to know.

deff gonna wanna buy a nice south bend clutch so your friend doesn't have to buy two clutches. grind a 0 plate and buy whatever the next step up from a con o is. and i would recommend buying isspro gauges a 0-60psi boost and pyrometer if possible get both of them from vulcan performance for 216 with a pillar. pretty damn cheap, i shopped around

Free power upgrades aside how about a 3000 rpm gsk? Pulls hard all the way to 3200 rpm and I love it.

Yank the plate completely, they are for pussies. Now that we have established that, yes definately have a pyro gauge installed asap and do not exceed whatever you consider a safe peak exhaust gas temperature. LOL... Then you'll wanna block off your wastegate control on your turbo... Not too hard on the turbo but gives ya extra wham for cheap :D A boost gauge is nice, but on a cheap budget not really needed its just nice to know what its doing. With stock injectors and turbo you're not going to blow anything up, or make a dangerous amount of boost. Please remove the turbo silencer ring so you can enjoy the beautiful sounds of the turbo and your newfound boost. Now that he has the bug, he's gonna want more and more, so AFE cold air intake is next, followed with 4" downpipe and exhaust, preferably exiting through twin 5"+ stacks :D Then he'll want more, so governor springs are in order, then injectors, delivery valves, bigger turbo, head studs, water/meth, propane, eventually FASS pump with BIG fuel lines, etc... you're gettin the picture :D :D :D

Its a horrible addiction!!! hahahaha......

My last clutch was a South Bend CON FE, it was a great clutch, very grabby but very strong. A CON OFE is supposed to drive a lot nicer, smoother engagement. Also they are supposed to hold up well from everyone i know that has them... IDK never tried one, i always try to go for overkill which is why i now have a dual disc attached to my 1 3/8" input shaft that hasn't been hooked to a sled yet and probably won't for a while, and then only very occasionally.. its just a daily driver that tows sometimes and plays in mud and goes fast... lol

i'm agreeing to dissagree.... on my truck w/o a plate and stock everything else except the GSK i could peg a 1600* pyro pre-turbo before i got out of second good and was running 45-48# of boost on the stock turbo..... i'd say at extended intervals that could blow up something..... just saying.....

yea u could possibly blow your turbo with just the plate out but it would be hard, but if you had the afc turned wide open an slid forward an no plate with the wastegate blocked, it could happen easier than you think :w2:

turning up the p1700
 

I was wondering how you turn up the AFC, i have a stock fuel plate and moved it forward,maxed the star wheel but my boost guage is only maxing at 17 how can i get more boost, i am soon to ad a set of stage 2 injectors from industrial injection, also have a #5 fuel plate on the way and a 4000 RPM GSK my number is 208-651-2377 (Brandon)

When ya get your #5 plate it should come with alil brass elbow with a set screw in it. That will take care of your boost issues.

so after i put that in i will be able to get 35 psi out of my turbo, also how do you turn up the AFC, all i am really trying to do is get 35psi right now with stock everything i herd it could be done

Should get close anyway, don't remember what mine did when it was stock. You most likely also have the older version turbo (unless it's been updated) so it aint going to do quite as good as a HX35. 94s, 95s, and some 96s came with the older WH1C turbos which were carried over from the 1st gen. trucks just with smaller exhaust housings.

Not much to mess with on the AFC other than swapping out springs, tuning the starwheel, or just gutting it completely. To adjust the starwheel check out the posts above.

ya i maxed my starwheel out but i still dont get how to turn up the AFC, there is a t fitting that comes out of it, one goes to the wastegate and the other goes to the inake manifold aLL I DID WAS move my fuel plat forward and max the star wheel what do you sujest on criping the wasetgate line whout that help?

You don't "turn" the AFC up. You either do two things, fool the boost pressure it sees (w/ the brass elbow) or ya change out a spring inside to a softer one. Course theres always gutting it completely but then it is rather tempermental to drive as your right foot then becomes the air/fuel control.

ok that makes sencnow that elbow will it conect right out of the AFC inplace of that tee fitting or will it go right infront of the wastegate, also if i crimp that hose going to the wastegate will that help or make it worse?

Don't crimp the line, just use the boost elbow that comes with the plate.

well for now i just crimped the line and she is up to 25PSI but my buddie might be getting rid of his turbo pushing 60PSI so i dont know if i will buy the elbow yet or not

i have a 95 dodge cummins and i want to turn up the injector pump how do i go about it

All you have to do is go back to page 1 of this thread and read - theres lots of info there to get you started...


But, before you do that - do you have a pyrometer and boost guage installed?

Hey, you said that you could throw away the fuel plate and the spring and not hurt the fuel pump? I got a 95 3500,5spd and the plate is all the way forward and the spring is all the way forward and black smokes ok,but not as good as some trucks ive seen. I want to do what u were talking about but im not sure how great of condition the pump is in.the truck has 206 on it and im pretty sure its the stock pump. need more :madd:smoke

you can take the plate out, BUT there is a chance that the rack can get stuck in the pump and make your truck run off and go BOOM:argh:. Is it just a stock plate??

I dont like the idea of running without a plate. Go with a 100 or a zero (if you do make sure you tweak your governor arm).

If you have the AFC tuned right, the profile of the plate eventually doesn't even matter because the foot of the AFC lever will pass it and push the gov. arm clear of the plate, and it will no longer be reading the face of the plate. Ultimately running without a plate isn't necessarily a bad thing. Yes the AFC can be tuned, not just gutted. The spring tension (which the start wheel adjusts) determines when fueling comes on. You can tune it for more pre/low boost fuel or less. If you are running big injectors and DVS and holders, you will want a stiffer spring, so you don't dump too much fuel down low. And I would recommend running the AFC, however, switching the washers around on the diaphragm can help achieve more Rack travel as well as grinding the foot on the AFC lever. This will allow the fuel rack to travel further and open up the spill ports more. On the older trucks not running a 215 pump, the addition of a 2095 Rack plug is also a good mod.
Sean

grind the stock plate:argh::argh::argh: free mod and you dont run the risk of it sticking but if you do not run a plate make sure you have an air shut off valve