Intake horns?
 

Who's running one, which one and what are the benifits if any? I'm considering one for my 2011 dualley but want more info first. Thanks guys.:humm:

im running h&s intake and boost tube. it seemes to spool quite a bit faster. im sure the egt's are also a lil lower. but i cant say they are cause my pyro hasnt been working. i got mine from mighty diesel.

Your talking about the Maxx Flow intake? Do you know anybody running the S&B or the Blade Runner? It seems to me that it only makes sense to change the intake when your doing the deletes and avoid the egr delete cost. That way the costs are reduced and you get more bang for the buck.

The intake heater grid is the biggest restriction.

Have you ever seen it proven on a dyno I bet it wont even gain you 5 hp

yes the max flow is what im running. my truck seems to spool quite abit faster with the intake after the install. it also is pre tapped for boost gauge, nitrous, water meth or what ever.

Ditto with air filters and intake horns.

What where the results with grid in and grid deleted with nothing else changed

Hell the grid heater is just for emissions any way remove it according too whargoul :humm:y

Wow!!! Besides you drive A 6.5 :argh:

thats funny

Grid heater not for emissions. It's dodges version of glow plugs. I live in a colder climate so when I deleted mine I installed an after market throttle body with it in there. I am also running 4" boost tubes, h&s intake horn and s$b CAI. Egt dropped with install of horn, then I installed the tubes and saw the spool time decrease. The tb I installed also made a huge difference. More comparable to a cable throttle.

whose heater did you use im intrested. but whargoul said it was for emissions so he must be right :argh:

Ditto with air filters and intake horns.

You think the 6.5 is my only vehicle?

That is false information.

From your comments it sounds like. Owning a 6.5 is just as dumb as the theories you have.

If it was for emissions then why does a first gen dodge have them:moon:

if they was there for the emissions wouldnt they have just put the egr on all the engines like the california model 12v?? :humm:

I'm sorry that you don't understand how engines work, thats not my fault. No need to act like a child just because you can't back up your point.

How did you back up your point????

The grid heater is simply there to heat the air charge. If the temperature is lower than 60 F WITHIN the engine, the thermostat will sense it and apply heat to the air. That's what that little coil light means on your display. It has not a single thing to do with emissions:se:

You cant fix stupid:wave:

I'm gonna leave the rest of my comments to myself. Last time I got into this, I got my peepee slapped by the moderators:police::lol:

:c:

You haven't posted any data to back it up.

False.
Thats the entire point of using it, reducing cold engine emissions.

I can't fix him, but I can help people that are actually capable of and willing to learn.

So your saying aftermarket company's who make grid heater relocation kits. Make them cause they worried about emissions. Or do they not know what they are for either? If that was true they would be making high flow egr kits and dpfkits. But no they remove them. Sure you can remove the grid with no probs except effect your cold start abbility.

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At the time you turn the ignition key to the ON position the PCM/ECM looks at the IAT temperature and determiunes if the manifold is cold enough to needpre-heating. Typically this occurs when temperatures are below 55-65*F. You'll notice that the battery voltage will fall slightly more than normal during this time that the WAIT TO START light is lit. Once started the grid heater will continue to cycle on and off to maintain proper manifold temperature. There are 2 grid heater elements. The PCM/ECMwill determine if one or both elements will be used. Here are the times and temperatures you should see.

Intake Manifold Temperature Key ON position

Pre-Heat Cycle Time Ignition ON, Engine NOT Running

Post-Heat Cycle Ignition ON Engine Running Above 59F (15C) 0 Seconds No 15F to 59F (-10C to 15C) 10 Seconds Yes 0F to 15F (-18C to -10C) 15 Seconds Yes Below 0F (-18C) 30 Seconds Yes

When temperatures are below 0*F it’s suggested to cyclethegrid heater twice to help aid in starting. Block Heater use can offset intake temperatures, since the block will warm incoming air.

Didn't you understand that you can't fix yourself

I know how the grid heaters work and what they are for, I don't think it has anything to do with the intake horn replacement unless you want to delete it but I live in Chicago and I need the cold start help in winter. Yes, I know it's located under the air horn but like I say I need it.
Back to the reason for this post, I think that I can save some dollars if I change the intake horn when I do the deletes because I don't need to buy the EGR blocks, correct?

The grid heater in the intake is to heat the incoming air to help the engine warm up. I don't live in an emissions testing state, but I know well enough that you aren't going to test emissions on a cold engine so what difference would it make? Manufacturers aren't worried about meeting emissions in the first 5 minutes that the cold engine is running.

you will not need block off plates for the intake. but you will for the exhaust manifold which can easily be made and save your $$. very simple if you have a cutting torch or just a a grinder and a drill. 3/8 plate would good

Clearly you don't.

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It hasn't stopped you from trying!

Thus reducing cold engine emissions.

They must meet emissions limits during the entire cycle of the engine, including cold starting.
Why do you think gas engines used to have air pumps (and now use lean burning)? To warm up the cat quicker so it will reduce emissions sooner.

Not really sure how the whole grid heater discussion got started but it's not the topic here. Thanks for the info on the intake it was helpful. Oddly enough you were the only person to accually answer the post with information requested. Matbe sone one else will see it and comment on the intakes. Thanks again

The hole point of the extra discussion was that the emissions grid causes the second most restriction in the intake system, first being the EGR butterfly.

Get rid of everything EGR related. The grid can be deleted by simply unbolting the elements from the housing.

Good to see forced induction whargoul still trying even though he's been banned from many diesel sites. On subject I run the Lazarsmith ir intake advantages where getting rid of the bathtub on the side of the head and better airflow

Thanks for the info. Is any one else running something besides the H&S or the IR from Lazarsmith?

There is no benefit to an aftermarket horn on a 6.7 if the grid is deleted. The 5.9 only had benefit because the bolt tubes obstructed airflow.

im still running my grid. but i did the h&s intake horn and it made a noticeable difference in spool time. just sayin

i have a cfm on my 12v im not sure how cfm is with the 6.7 but my egt's never really come above 1200 romping on it and it spools up quite quickly really nice i think!

I took my stock horn off and removed ALOT of excess casting material, if i remember correctly about 1/2" head side, and 3/4" fender side, i also smoothed out casting lines inside and tried to make it as free flowing as possible. The only difference i noticed was the boost read-out on my blackmaxx claims 0 psi at idle now, used to say 4 psi. I believe this means it helped reduce back pressure, But not enough to "feel" anything. ( I'm too cheap to buy an intake horn)

93/250, the reason I'm interested in the air horn is it removes the EGR when you replace it and you save money on the delete with a small benefit or at least I believe there is some benefit.

Very true, if i would have known more about "deleting" a 6.7 when i ordered all my delete stuff i would have gone the same route as you are intending to do.