P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
 

Today while driving got engine light come on. Checked it with Smarty. I got P0106 which is Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor .

Anyone else got this code? I guess I got to get a new sensor. Tried to get the damn thing out, but there is not enough room for my fingers to get there and get the elctrical wire disconnected. Any one got any tricks how to disconnect the wire?

Thanks
MR

when mine did it, i just shut off the truck and disconnected the battery and it reset itself. havent had the problem since

Thanks for the info
I will give it a shot.

Now the exhaust break comes on as soon as the light comes on.

is it the actual exhaust brake, or does it sound more like a chug/spool down after a truck finishes a truck pull?

i looked around online, and found that if you still have your egr, or had it for awhile, it can cause soot build up on the sensor. im not sure how to get to it, im currently in bum f**k New Mexico, headed to bum f**k Arizona, so i havent looked at it at all. but you may not have to replace it, just clean it off a bit. i dont know if you can even go WOT, cause my truck was pissed when i tried. but the boost might help dislodge some soot :argh:

sorry if thats not much help, im not really awake yet:madd:

I took the sensor out Sunday mornring. therewas about 1/8 of an inch black crap around it. Cleaned it good and put it back on. Took her for test drive, all was real good. So I goosed it, she took out real nicely and then the light came on when I hit 95, with the P0106 code read by Smarty.

And yes, it is axhaust break, because when I turn the button on and then turn it off, it goes away and after driving a little it comes back on, without having the exhaust break key turned on.

My EGR tube has been gone for the last 4 months now.

When I started using the smartyME my exhaust brake started doing the samething but at the sametime the engine would rev up and the egts would climb to over 500 when im parked. The rpm gauge however would not move. I learned this met the truck was trying to go into regen but cant since I turned off the 4th injection with the programmer. My egt sensors are tied to the frame rail like the directions stated can be done. Now people (not Mads) are telling me to try putting sims in place of the sensors and that should fix the regen problem. Maybe this will help you into the right direction. So far the few trucks I know that have had this issue have not worked it out yet. I have been in touch with Marco and they are working on it as well. Im going to give the sims a shot since. I have not seen a truck using sims have this issue yet. The sims that have been recommended to me are 330 ohms resistors.

Hopefully Smarty can provide a fix for this.

This happens to me every 75 to 85 miles of driving and lasts about 8 to 15 miles and evrything goes back to normal. I just have to put the shifter to nutral and back to drive again to get control of the accelerator back and get going.

What is sims and where do you install it?
Thanks

MRowsh,
I installed the sims into my truck last week and put 220 miles on it the past few days. They seemed to have fixed the problem. Mine would not turn off like yours on its own till I reprogrammed the truck.

Sims are just resistors you pick up from radioshack. Some companys sale some already fabbed to plug in. Basicly you replace each one of the three egt sensors you have in your exhaust pipe with a 330 ohms resistor. There is three ways I know of to do it.
1. buy the resistors from radio shack and jam them into the factory harness.

2. buy the resistors, cut the factory egt sensors off from there plug and put the resistors in there palce.

3. buy a premade kit and just plug it in.

Hope this helps

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Are you running the dpf or is it off? If your truck still has your emmisions (dpf) you should not use the sims. Leaves the oem egt sensors in place.

DAMNIT CLINT WHEN DID YOU GET SO SMART:moon: NO MAN REALLY GOOD INFO TOO BAD MY 5.9 DOESNT NEED THAT CRAP :tttt:

not smart, had some problems I had to work through