Only one catch- parking brake.
The only alternative I see for the parking brake is a second caliper with an internal parking brake lever, then finding SEVERELY worn pads in an attempt to make it wide enough to clear the massive front rotor. |
1 Attachment(s)
Using similar mounts, Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers (with parking brake) work just fine.
Attachment 49966 |
Originally Posted by BC847
(Post 464203)
Using similar mounts, Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers (with parking brake) work just fine.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...Conversion.jpg |
Originally Posted by Uncle Bubba
(Post 464207)
Did ya build this mount or buy it pre-made someplace. Also curious as to what rotor you used for this. I'll take all the details you can give.
only down side about the caddy calipers is the core on them is outrageous. and make sure they come with the parking brake lever on them, because if they dont theyre very hard to come by ---AutoMerged DoublePost--- oh ya and as for the rotor, they used the standard chevy 73-87 k20 rotor |
Originally Posted by BC847
(Post 464203)
Using similar mounts, Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers (with parking brake) work just fine.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...Conversion.jpg |
Originally Posted by RSWORDS
(Post 464243)
Any more details?
its a pretty standard isntall, unbolt the drums, install the new caliper bracket into the old holes that the drums were bolted to (using spacers if necesary). then you pound the new rotor on the old hub like above, slide it back on the spindle, tighten all the spindle nuts, throw on the caliper and pads, and then rig up an e brake (if applicable). all you need is a pull style metal line that connects to that tab on the top of the caliper ---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Originally Posted by cummins_guy
(Post 464092)
I have some questions.
are those weld on brackets? why the k20 rotor, why not the use the front rotor? any vibrations (thinking that taking weight off the axel could cause vibrations) my rear has to be rebuilt this weekend and I,m really thinking hard on doing this. Thanks mike as for why k20 rotors, the size is good, theyre CHEAP and VERY easily to come by. any and every auto parts store normally has them in stock theyre not hard to come by at all. and as for vibrations, no, because even though it removes weight, it removes a balanced system and reinstalls a balanced system (I.E. the caliper is true just as a drum would be) |
What is the axle tube width on that 70?
I'm just trying to verify they are the same as a small tube D80, and see if the victim I deal with (1999 NV4500 SRW) has the small tubes. If it does, this could get interesting! Quoted from another site- At the moment, I'm only concerned with the axle tube size on the 2nd gens. I know the autos get the D70, while the manuals get the D80. The choice of third member flavors is: D70 (small tubes, 10.5" ring) D80 (small tubes, 11" ring) D80 (big tubes, 11" ring) |
how would it make it interesting with how big the tube is? it has nothing to do with a disc brake swap at all
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Were tryin to figure out what all trucks this conversion could be done on.
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Originally Posted by tltruckparts
(Post 464421)
how would it make it interesting with how big the tube is? it has nothing to do with a disc brake swap at all
Maybe I should also ask what the distance is from hole to hole on the flange ya'll are running and then compare it to the 80? ---AutoMerged DoublePost--- One last question for the day- How is the brake pedal travel with the disc brake swap? OEM puts a larger master cylinder on the 2001+ trucks then the older ones, and I assume that is because of the disc brake rear axle. Discs GENERALLY use more volume then drums (One large piston on each corner vs two small ones). |
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