I know the BD is a Cummins gasket 94 up any way.

just a thought, but i was always told the dowel pin was for aligning the gear case to the block, if thats so wouldnt it make more sense to buy a case gasket, crank seal get a pair of side cutters pull the pin out, seal'er up and not spend 100 plus dollers on a kit?

Well , The case supports your pump. In this location without the pin prevents movement that would allow the cast al. case to fracture or break. Some have taken it out without issue, but I prefer to keep it in there just in case. There's a jig kit that allows you to drill and tap a bolt in to keep it from coming out. You can also make your own tab and just buy the gaskets!

ok i can understand supporting the pump but wouldnt the bolts holding the case to the block bolts serve that purpose? granted ive never pulled a 1st gen cover but it cant be much different from a 3rd 0r 4th gen and ive pulled gobs of them and didnt know about the kdp till a few years ago and the 24s and cr cummins dont have the kdp or at least none of the covers ive pulled. also could you just pull the pin out and tap the hole the bolt came out of the loctite or safety wire a bolt in its place? just a thought

You could use safety wire or locktite, the last one i did didnt have one. Every single bolt in the case was loose!

ouch... that's just a problem waiting to happen... could red loctite the dowel in there... but that doesnt garuntee none is going to get on the case and cause the case to be permanently attatched too... i beleive i'd just get the seal and a new gasket and make a tab myself... i'm sure it'd be much cheaper. just some people dont have the necessary tools to grind and cut their own tab.

we are talking about loctite on a bolt and threading it in the hole not loctite the pin. and loctite aint like liquid concrete and its there permanently, it just keeps bolt from working loose. it aint gonna liquid weld the case to the block

ever used red loctite? its about permanent... i believe the directions say you have to heat it (beyond what engine temps run) and yes i know it isnt liquid cement... you could get the pin loose... but it'd be alot more effort than it'd be worth to try and get away with just loc-tite... and i do believe i would tab it to start with. they do design it with the tab for a reason and i understand that

I like the idea of tapping the KDP hole and loctiting a bolt in there. I would make it an allen head so it can be run all the way in and peened as well. That would be much more secure than just a fixed KDP, whether it was tabbed. peened, loctited or anything else. I would use regular blue loctite to make it easier to remove in case I ever needed to get timing case off.

The problem with the timing case alignment is the bolts come loose as well. They don't have tight enough fit to maintain the case alignment and will fall out and cause the same or more damage as when the KDP falls out. Sooner or later it's all coming apart one way or the other and then you may also have related injection pump issues as well at some point depending on what style of automatic dissassembly it happens to take.

I'm saying put locktite green penetrating locktite on the outer edge of the pin, One little dab. It's just to make sure you dont have issues with anything working loose.