Edge comp on and now my truck stays at full throttle
 

i just installed an edge comp box and it drove fine at first i drove it about ten miles and my rpms started jumping then ten more miles the truck stays at full open throttle. any ideas?:argh:

Try removing the Edge Comp and see what happens. Determine if it is an Edge issue, or a truck issue. Any codes?

its not the edge. i disconnected it fully and it still did it i pull off the plastic cover off of the throttle cable assembly area and the top cable on the engine side is slack. no tension whats so ever. i traced it back to an assembly on the front underside of the driver side battery.

reset the APPS

turn key on but dont start
slowly fush throttle pedle to floor
slowly release throttle pedle up
turn key off
start truck and see what happens

also there was i think a small vacuum hose that came off of the assembly at the front underside of the drive battery that i broke messing around with trying to see what was happening. will the apps reset put tension back on the cable?

No, thats your cruise control vacuum pot.

no this is the electrical end only

ok so there is only tension on that cable when cruise is on. what about the vacuum hose that i broke playing with it. what does that do?

also the pedal isnt sticking and seems to be working fine. so would the edge have messed up the volts going through the apps?

the edge will have no relation at all to the APPS

ok so when we removed the whole triangle shaped throttle assembly (the black box on top of the vp) to get the wires on the pump to tap it for the edge, could we have stretched a cable or messed up the apps? or is that a fairly tough system

Very possible. Try the APPS reset as it is very easy and free. You can also remove 3 ( i believe) plastic rivets from the cover of the APPS assembly. Once off, try rotating the linkage by hand. Maybe something is stuck in there.

Good point Ryan:humm:

it rotates fine i pulled all that off and thats when i noticed the slack in the now known cruise control cable. so should i do the apps re calibrate if the reset doesnt work? ive checked all the linkage and it appears to work fine. so to do the reset i remove both battery cables for 30 minutes then i connect them back turn the key to the on position but dont start it and slowly push the pedal to the floor and then slowly release it?

dont disconnect batteries just do like I said in the post above

oh ok sorry my mind is racing a hundred miles an hour trying to think and focus. problem with only having one vehicle and having to go places. im going to go try the apps reset ill see what happens there.

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ok so ressetting the apps didnt help at first i had a dead pedal. just idled at a normal rpm. did that twice then was back to full open throttle and i dont have a code reader and the only one i have is at work. which i cant get to if my truck is at full open. could it be a sign of the pump going out?

Pump usually does the opposite of fueling to WOT. Search for APPS adjust on here, and try that procedure as well. It's more in depth, but may work for you.

It doesn't sound like APPS to me. No matter how far out of adjustment it is or could be I don't see that making the truck run wide open. I'm thinking it may be something with the injection pump going. Like RAWilliams said usually it won't run full throttle but the dead pedal is very common. Do you or did you ever have a fuel pressure gauge on the truck?

You could try unplugging the APPS and see how it reacts. This should tell you if it is an APPS issue, or a harness issue.

ok so i had a diesel mechanic come look at it. we disconnected the edge and the batteries let it reset. no more open throttle but rpms still bounce. i hooked the chip back up and it added power but the rpms bounced and at 2300 rpms and above it would lose power and and the rpms really jumped. at least at this point i got the truck drivable. i guess at this point i should contact edge and see what they have to say. i guess the owner before me had a chip on it but im not sure which. if the ecu was reflashed and set totally back to stock. im thinking this might fix the problem. as far as the apps it seems to be working fine.

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and yes i do have a fuel pressure gauge it runs at 13 psi at idle and drops to 8.5-9 psi at open throttle. so i dont think lift pump.

Ok so now I have a completely dead pedal idles fine but won't rev at all. On a scan tool it pulls up the code for low apps voltage and an idle validation code. Would this be an apps adjustment or a new apps?

time for a new APPS

Dang there's 350$ I didn't want to spend. I also pulled an engine fault code but I think that's from the boost fooler. :argh::scare2:

More cost efficient:
Timbo APPS

So these are good? No problems good customer service?

yes very good...never heard a complaint

Well it's definitely cheaper then mopar and a quick google search shows good things

If mine ever goes, I will most likely order one of these.

Alright I'll give it a try

I have never heard a bad thing myself. I will also order one when the time comes:tu:
Give us some feedback if and when you do get it:c:

No worries I'll keep you guys posted. I just developed a leak at the top of the fuel filter cannister. So I guess if its not one thing it's another. Time to swap it out for an air dog.

So I got the timbo apps took longer to put the truck back together then to install it. Even had the foresight to include Phillips head bolts instead of torque bolts. All problems are gone drives great. We shall see how it hold up but wow I'm impressed so far. Hooked the chip back on and it runs beautifully. Only issue is now the stupid sticky stuff that came with comp lost adhesive and so the box is just set in my cup holder at the moment. But the truck runs great with the new apps.

lol You aren't going to believe this but that's great to hear. My truck started acting up yesterday pulling a trailer and I scanned it and said low voltage apps.:humm: So I tried to adjust as I have before but, no longer any adjustment:argh: Looks like I'll be getting one sooner than I thought.:s:

Hmmm, maybe I should get one to keep in the glove box. Diesel Bombers group buy? :humm:

Haha I'd say if you have a high mileage 24 valve for that price it's worth keeping one handy. All it takes is a good set of sockets and a T20 torx and your set. I didn't even Adjust my idle like he recommends and my pedal has no free play before my rpms increase. So far I'm a fan. I am guessing that was an oem sensor and I just rolled 250 thousand miles on my truck. So I'm hoping the timbo one lasts just as long or longer. :tu: