I'd get 200hp injectors, most guys running 64mm turbos go with 7x.012 (200hp) injectors. Buy whole bodies, not nozzles. Luke (Diesel Dawgs) sells a damn good injector at a good price.

Tranny should be triple disc converter, billet input shaft, flexplate, all the little stuff you can get billet like servo, accumulator, actuator, hd band, anchor, etc... No point in skimping on the tranny if you have the money because any corners you cut may cost you bigtime later on.

165 will be more then enough, but in this situation more is better. "Less is more" doesn't apply. You don't want pressure to below 10 psi ever. Personally, I like it in the 18 to 20 psi range at idle/cruising. The overflow is set to open at 18psi. The VP44 uses fuel to cool and lubricate. If you can keep the pressure higher then the overflow relief, more fuel will pass through the VP44 to cool it better.

Injectors and nozzles are commonly misunderstood. Every injector has a nozzle. The nozzle is what is changed to add more flow, equaling more power. You can buy nozzles, and have a diesel shop swap them from your existing injectors, or buy complete injectors.

As for that last sentence, I may have had a feeling this was the first time. :D I hope my comments above don't seem rash, they are only to help you build a truck properly. As always, everything I post is in my own opinion. :c:

okay right on guys thank you for all the help!!!! :jump: i will post pictures etc. when i start everything :tu:

Oh look, a FASS95 for sale:
https://www.dieselbombers.com/sale/9...ins-parts.html
:humm:

honestly for daily driving etc a 62mm turbo would be much easier to street drive etc. it also works as a great top turbo in a compound setup later on down the road

you do have a bit of money but for the injectors, i would get injector nozzles. they will be much cheaper than complete injectors and work just the same. just make sure you have them pop tested and mach flowed