Head studs
 

im going to be getting an h2e soon and i was just wondering when i get this am i goin to be needing head studs or will i be ok i do mild towing and drag race the truck. also with this turbo what will my hp numbers be. thanks

you cant just give a hp number theres may too many variables to do that. head steads are recommended if you hit around 40 pounds of boost or more. id run it till i blew the headgasket, and if/when you do, do the studs when you have the head off that way you can bottom tap the block

is it hard to pull the head and do studs and a gasket? is that somethin i should have a shop do?

if you do it before you pop your head gasket then just pull one bolt in the torq sequence replace it with a stud and torq it down

you can do that with head BOLTS but not with STUDS. they require a 3 level torque sequence and all need to be done at the same time. head gaskets are easy to do if you know your way around engines. but if youve never done and dont have help, i wouldnt try doing it on your own. these motors are too expensive to want to mess something up

and you are also supposed to bottom tap the block with all studs to do it right, which is a pain when the head is on. and also the rocker pedastals require machine with head studs, therefore you will need to take all studs out around the rocker pedestals. and you cant just throw em back in and torque em down. unfortunately its just not that easy

my head bolts you can do 1 at a time. :tu:

doing them one at a time seems to work for everyone I know without failure, but to do it right you are correct.

You can change them out one at a time, and bottom tap them. you don't have to worry about the rocker pedestals with the 24valve. It's cheaper to change them out now then after you blow the gasket.

i forgot i was in the 24v forum:argh: that makes everything so much easier not having to mess with the pedastals

so to put studs in do i have to pull the head off or can i leave the head on and do it?

you can or grind one of the inside ribs of the all 6 of the 12v valve covers and they will fit

Leave the head on so you dont have to buy a head gasket. Take a stock stud out and replace with the new stud and torque it to 90 pounds. Then after you have changed all of them in sequence. You need to torque them to 110 then 125 or whatever htey say in the instructions. Then drive it around and get it hot pull the valve cover back off and retorque to specified

is that true with the arps as well? the arps require pedestal milling on all 12valves they say but i guess they dont have a problem with valve cover clearance. the a-1 studs dont require the pedestal milling but theyre the ones that supposedly have the valve cover clearance issue.

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very good explanation:tu:

Matt and i helped our buddy vinny do a set of arps on his 12 valve and we had to grind the webbing out of the vavle covers. To get them on. Thanks i tried to expain it as easy as possible

did you get the pedestals milled down as well? or is that just rumor?

I believe they updated the studs so you don't have to deal with that now, but I don't know for sure.

no milling required. you are correct about milling the pedestals being the correct way :tu: I have done this as well but you can get away with a little grinding and cleaning for someone withought a mill.:rocking: I havent tried a1 studs but might look into them now

A1 Tech. makes the stud but Haisley Machine sells them.

so head studs are easy to put in? i am looking into buying the head studs from diesel pap those are a easy install?

just follow torque specs thats the important thing. the wrong torque ratings or wrong torque pattern can cause a disaster. just follow the instructions and the torque sequence, and you should be ok

do any of you guys no where i could get a write up of this or maybe a video or pics thanks

You getting Head Studs or Head Bolts?

im not sure they are coming from diesel pap so whatever his are. his are head bolts. whats the difference?

he sells both. but if your talking about the cheaper ones (200 dollar range), theyre just head bolts. studs have a much stronger holding strength, the head bolts are kind of like a stronger version of the stock bolts.

if your really that unsure on doing it try and find someone to help you. because if you dont do it right you can mess up your headgasket, and replacing that is ALOT more work than replacing one bolt at a time

Headstuds arent bad but they are time consuming because there are 26 of them. And you need to have a real good torque wrench.

my allen head bolts tighten at 90lb and 90 degs. they are the middle of the road type of bolt. i run them in my puller. they were put in 1 at a time. my head has never been off.

arps are spec at 125. And on my truck and my buddy vinnies we went to 135 after we got the truck hot

allen bolts you tq and thats it. arp that is a different story.

You also have to remove the intake rocker on all 6, I believe it torques down to 27 ft lb. when you put it back on. I cant even retorque my studs w/o removing intake rocker, Does everybody have this issue or is mine a "special one"? I never hear any talk of that when guys are talking about installing studs?

I have never heard of that having to be done.

Me either that's why I was surprised to have to. I can't even get a socket on the nut to torque the one closest to the intake manifold without removing the intake rocker.

Have you talked to your local cummins dealer to see if there is a certain serial number group thats different from the rest? Thats the onlt thing i can think of. Maybe its since yours is the first year of the 24v. I dont know thats strange

So if I were to put a 62mm on my truck head bolts would work good and I wouldn't blow my head gasket

jake just save your cash for some arp studs, who was you gonna buy them from?

come on man this isnt the place for comments like this.

I was gunna get them from diesel pap

aight i'll behave.........even though i know him personally from another site

need the correct socket and extension I believe. But you should always re-adjust the valves if you re-torque