I need to recheck the valve clearance on mine, I set it after I switched springs, but I think I have a couple that may have slipped. They're rattlin just a tad.
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SWEET yall have ALL the answers. I was beginning to panic I wouldn't know how to do this job! Thanks guys! Now If I could only get someone to do it for me while I make beer runs!:c::5:
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Tork Tech sells a tool too for the springs... i just took off my head to do my 150lb valve springs... its game time
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If you are going to do this and run more than 50lbs of boost and have a 4k GSK you need to upgrade to better keepers and retainers. 60lbs springs with stock retainers and keepers DO NOT prevent the keepers from being pulled THROUGH the retainers. We have had 2 engines do this and one was found after a catastrophic failure that beat the valves from being the cause of the failure. It is more money to go to the 150# springs and the upgraded 10* locks and retainers but the money spent here is better than a dead engine. Just my .02.
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when you use the term (float the valves) does it not do it on the intake side??? if so I would be more worried about the push rods leaving the came and re-striking it.does that not make sence :humm::humm:
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Originally Posted by Hightech_Redneck
(Post 755631)
Tork Tech sells a tool too for the springs... i just took off my head to do my 150lb valve springs... its game time
also there are much better choices of springs out there than the ole 60lbs springs |
yeah 150s for now lol .... got a dual spring set up on the other head so if i have issues its game
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how many rpm do you plan on turning and what kind of boost do you plan to see?
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i run mid 4500 rpms last year and i found 3 that were pulling thru the retainers. i upgraded retainers and locks and put a new set of 60 lb springs in.
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As mentioned, upgrade your retainers and keepers. Just had headwork done and put in titanium cause a couple were pulling through. Not inexpensive but you won't ever have to worry about that problem.
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