yea thats what my brother in law said lol

ya i was talking about the oil filler tube, some of the 24vs came with a tube ran like this to recirculate it thru the intake system, there are a few options, you can buy a new filler tube with a tee on it and get a piece of oil rated pipe and run it over to your intake, or i just took and made a new top for mine that the tube could connect to

you could also buy the catch can assembly that came on the 24vs and put on there, you would just have to get a different valve cover if you want to put oil in, lol

mine started pushing oil out the dip stick about 40ks ago and would still be running like that if i didnt pull it to fix other leaks

could you explain more are that tube idea?

well i did mine kinda getto but it worked and kept the engine compartment clean

i got a 1-1/2 rubber jim cab (used in plumbing stuff and it fits perfectly over the oil filler hole) i then cut a hole in the top of it and pressed a 1" barbbed 90* thru it (also used in plumbing) then siliconed around it for a good seal, then i got a piece of 1" ID oil rated rubber tubbing and ran it from there over to the rubber boot that connects the turbo to the air filter, i cut a hole in that and used a 1" straight barb and also siliconed that into place

the jim cab has a hose clamp that you can tighten around the filler tube, then you just loosen it and pull the whole thing off the side when you need to add oil, all that stuff can be found at home depote, lowes, etc. im a plumber so i just used what was handy around the house

I did something similar on my 94. I pulled the oil filler tube off and drilled and tapped it for a brass 90* fitting, then attached a 1/2 hose to it and routed that hose back under the cab. This allowed more blow by to escape the block and kept the pressure from pushing oilup the dipstick tube.

As for rebuild, absolutely rebuild it. I just finished mine, at 308,000 miles it was tired. More than likely you can just order a set of bearing and rings, and just rering it. You'll need a 4" ball hone to scuff the cylinder walls with.

I went way beyond just reringing mine, it got different pistons, balanced the rotating assy, ect......

how hard would it be too rering it without going to the shop?

My motor guy at machine shop says that inless you melt piston he usually only has to do rings and bearings.

Pull the pistons
Run ball hone through cylinders to scuff the walls
Install rings on pistons
Install pistons


I would recommend you check the cylinders for roundness and taper before reassembling. Simple check with inside mic would do fine.