what turbo is best
 

im gonna run 5x14's competition dv's timing to 20* head studs all pump work and a 0 plate and get water meth in a month or two i haul around 3500 to 4000 pounds everyday in the summer and will a full ceramic 550 hp clutch hold up to all that

i wouldnt go ceramic for the clutch. they are really grabby, either in or out n if ya slip em, u can weld the disc to the flywheel, just ask nate (12valvetater). dont spend all that money buildin up the motor then skimp on the clutch or u'll destroy it. i love this dual disc, but u might wanna go with a higher plate load for what ur lookin at

heard t6hrough the grape vine a dual disk u cant change gears real fast and there really hard to push down

no i cant slam gears but i still have the stock hydraulics. im gonna order the upgraded set n see if that helps.

that sounds like it should help im shootin for 600 hp

upgraded hydro will help some ... but a dual will not shift like a single, slam shifting these 4500's is a great way to blow them up


why are you gonna run such a big dv? 181's would be great

smoke lol and a little extra power

smoke add's extra heat ... which is what your trying to loose lol the extra power will come from the bigger injectors and charger

im workin on that too ha ha 5x14's and pump work and ive heard timing will drop egts and timing will increase

timing will help but the larger dv's kinda defeat the purpose

im gonna sled pull too i need the extra power lol

sled pull? you never said anything about that lol don't even bother with a single disk if your gonna sled pull, still the 181's would work fine

ha ha yeah sled pull plus haul lawnmowers plus my grocery getter and rice burner killer i need some woompow

alright add your 4k's, rack plug, and injectors ... with a 64mm charger with either the 68 wheel or the 71 wheel and enjoy

should i go kore then 20* timing or even that high and i cant find a 64mm turbo for less then 1700 dollars

your gonna have to buy used ... and 20* is fine no need to go higher

1650.00 :hellox:

hey tater u messed my youtube page up but with my tenessee smarts i fixed it and thats way to high

I messed your youtube page up? :s:

yeah control + v zooms in

im not lookin to be able to jam gears, i'd just like to get rid of some of the notchy-ness that i have now.

control + V is paste

not on mine i guess cuz it zommed it in

You cant go cheap on a charger either. I would think with 5x.014's your gonna have all the smoke and power you want if you dont change the charger. The comp delivery valves are dirty and very hot let alone with a delivery valve of that size. I would follow 94 12valves suggestions as he is a smart guy, and a whole lot smarter than me. And also i didnt see anything about head studs or anything and at 20* you can pretty much kiss the head gasket good bye especially with the addition of that much fuel with out them. Just my .02

have head studs on thje way now all about that

You're gonna have to have a BIG single to burn all that fuel, probably at least a 66mm. And thats not gonna be a fun charger to tow with. Gonna spool slow, and EGT's will be high. If you're going to run that much fuel and tow, you really need a small set of twins. Probably a 62/(65 or 68)/12 as a primary and a HT3B or S400 series as the bottom turbo.

na lol a cam and water meth and im gettin quite a bit of head work done and its all in how u set ur pump and fuel plate bro

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like if im gonna tow how hard will it be to change a fuel plate and some afc adjustments little this little that and thats took care of and if im gonna go to a slep pull little this little that and thats tookcare of and runnin empty no towin or anything a 4gsk is gonna help keep my turbo spooled shiftin at higher rpms and thats took care of. secondly im goona do twins one day so ill take my 64mm whn i get it and do a nice trde in on a 62mm custom built from mcn diesel to wat i want then get a turbo to match up with that custom built so the will work good together :) plus im sure 5x14's from the good ole sdx will run alot cooler normal driving then my 370s and thats took care of ha ha

So why the questions? Seems like you have it figured out to me...

the question was wat turbo is best to run with all that the answer i was lookin for is a 64/71 or a 64/... etc or a 62/71 oe a 66.... but the post got turned around a little and started talkin about different stuff just like every other post on here it happens somebody asks about a tire it gets turned around shortly tellin them they need a new bulb in there brake light or somethin and wats ur question askin me y do i ask questions? maybe i wasnt sure which exhaust wheel i wanna run or inducer mm or exhaust housing to match up and work the best so if u aint gonna answer my first question on the thread dont reply at all :dang:

Get a 62/74/14 or a 62/71/14 get it tuned in nice and leave it. 62 mm turbos are great towing turbos

finally a answer with numbers lol thanks man and i was really lookin more on the 64mm side to move a little more air so when i adjust everything to full fuel for sled pull but would i need a 64 with a cam and water meth or would the 64mm be a little more hp on top of all that

I don't know why I said a 66, I meant a 64 lol. A small twin setup would be best, but if you're gonna run a single I would go with a 64/71/14 or so. But I think Scott@Alligator had a good suggestion with either the 62/71/14 or 62/74/14.

yeah a 62 is wat im leanin on for quicker spool but like with a cam and head work i think a 64mm would spool the same and have alot more hp advantages for now but i didnt mean to sound like a dick to bre just statin a fact and a water meth kit would keep it cooler running a bigger turbo plus like 100 hp

64mm with a cam gets my vote and leave the water meth off its not needed

Ever seen a 11k lb dually truck smoke the tires with just a 62mm ats 3000 turbo?? it aint cheap to achieve but i can, a lottttt of engine work, go with a haisley cam, i went a little to aggressive and had to change pistons to fly cuts, but it diffenently helped spool, and i think offset grinding the crank helped me out a little to, and when u go to sled pull just take the fuel plate out, dont run water/meth unless u plan on long hauling trips

ok a cam is gonna cost me 600 dollars then 299 for pushrods then anything else? how much are pistons if i need to change them

Im really toying with the idea of water/meth, but I would probably just run straight water (except in winter). Saw a vid on a thread on this site of a guy runnin straight water, and the EGT's started to drop when he started to goose on it lol. Just think its an innovative idea to help control EGT's.

i mean i dont see the harm in water meth when im tryin to get as high hp as i can and it seems klike it would help egts quite a bit plus do i have to refill the water or methanol i want some info on good and bad about water meth

changing pistons now? if you are looking for a cam I may be swaping mine out this year. if you can wait a few months I'll give you a good deal on a cam with lifters.


Just water will help cool things down ... I'm just not a fan of the water meth kits

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window washer fluid works well if you do get a water meth kit. most pulls don't allow water meth kits to be hooked up while pulling, for towing your gonna have tons of air flow with your charger and cam, and for street short burst's of high heat will not hurt.

washer fluid actually works for that? i had heard that once before but i was very skeptical, but not so much now hearin it from u dave