CAN I MAKE THE HP WITH THESES MODS
 

IF I USE 140HP INJECTORS, WITH A SUPER B SPECIAL TURBO , SUBZERO INTERCOOLER AND STUD EVERYTHING AND USE A 180HP PUMP COULD I GET BETWEEN 600 AND 750? ADVICE WANT THANKS ALL YALL IM NEW BY THE WAY:humm:

no

no

good luck, I have been chaseing the 600 hp mark for a while now and I have more work done than what you are doing.

of course if your gonna spray it then yes you could hit 600 with thoes mods, just be carefull if you choose that route.

what advice do you have maybe twins and a 215hp pump and a set of 200hp injectors?:argh:

There is nothing wrong with the 180 pump. IMO yes twins are the way to go for 600rwhp, a set of 5x.014's ( 140hp) will do, the rest is gonna depend on how well you can tune one of these. I have found out the hard way its not as easy as one may think.

What truck year truck do you have and what is done to it already?

Not. sorry man but i don't think you'll get the fue"ll

with twins 5x14 injs 191 delivery valves and alot of tunnin youll hit 600 but you need a great port and polish a cam a spring kit a benched pump to go higher

its a 94 model motor out of a blue bird bus and im building it more for possible sled pulling but aint sure hoew to go got 60hp injectors right not and stock turbo and intercooler and pump. planned on taking motor out and having it balanced and groove the head for firerings and stud ti all and put in a main girdle to stillen the block up but would like to spend some money make it better with more power and torque the right way :humm:

with a 180 pump and 5x.014's he has plenty of fuel. The biggest problem is air flow

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what class are you wanting to pull in?

that has alot to do with how a truck is built and what mods to suggest. what all have you done to the trans? u can have all the power in the world, but a weak auto, or a slipping clutch will ruin it.

with sdx 5x.014 with a stock turbo i laid down 433. i figure with a bigger turbo i would be around 5 with that turbo. good luck with it man :tu:

i would do a set of twins.
hx35 or 40 over a 3b.

if you end up doing twins and just want to pull with it. i can hook you up with a big ht3b housing. it would be good for just sledpulling and would let the motor breath

he wouldnt be able to use twins truck pulling. probably 90% of all of them wont let them pull unless its exhibition.

usually theres always an open class, where anything goes. are local 4x4 jamboree has no runs even in diesel class. as long as you have a diesel engine, you can hook up. wether your stock or 1000hp on giggle gas

Up here the diesel 3.0 class allows twins as long as your biggest turbo is under 3" inducer size... And Ed I gotta beat you to the 500hp mark now :D

I would say the starter class, what ever that would be but i would still like to drive the truck on the street sometimes not a lot maybe once a month, so if twins then the setup for the hx40 over the 3b would be best but in single what charger would be the best appiclaiton for that? what work should be done to the head besides stud and firerings? just wondering but i do appricate all your alls advice:tu:

most places run a street class that means you have to have a sotck charger from a 1 ton or less pick up truck.

when you go swapping turbos you will most likely get bumped up to another class like 2.6. It all depends where you want to pull and what your rules are. you need to read them all and make your choice which one you wanna pull in.

If your looking to just get started do not put twins on. Keep your stock charger make a few hooks and go from there.

ok just want to make sure before changin stuff and wonderin what class i would be in id like to pull in the 2.6 class but will have to read the rules first but if i was going to pull in that class would the truck still be streetable to drive every now and again?

Sure would. Every one has a different idea of what streetable is though.

i would o ring it. not fire rings

i pull in the 2.6 class in my 97 cummins. i have a s400 charger and 5 by .016 injectors.

Same here

and yes it can be driven daily

ok that works, so oring it instead of fire ring how come? and do i need a different cam or use the stock cam and valve springs or change to 60lb? what about dv change them and make them bigger? and the last thing do i need to used 160hp injectors instead of 140hp to get the turbo spool up quicker? sorry its so long:humm:

It's not about more fuel to get a big charger to light. You have to feed it just enough to get it going to much and you'll drown it out. This is where proper afc tuning comes into play.

use o rings because they are more street friendly and can be reused. your stock cam will do fine for starters but I would use a bolt on retainer and better springs than the 60lbs springs.

For Dv's I have ran 131's, 181's, 191's and full cuts. by far my fav are the 191's they make good power and less heat then the full cuts ( which were my least fav set). your injector choice is going to mainly depend on the turbo of your choice, since you said your gonna pull 2.6 class it boils down to the housing choice, turbine wheel, and what frame charger your gonna buy.


Bingo on the dyno that is true. On the track I run with no afc, my charger lights very easy off the line.

so oring the heads, use the better valve spring then the 60lbs, keep the 140hp injector, use the 191 dv, and i thought about either a super b special turbo or a silver bullite series which would be better? what do you mean by a bolt on retainer?

about your charger choice ... the 2.6 rule states no bigger than 2.650 inducer. the super B is 64 mm which is smaller so that would work but you will be underturboed. The silver bullet is 66mm but is known not to pass the 2.6 plug. If you order a bullet make sure you tell them you want it to pass the 2.6 class plug.

I have ran a silver bullet and it is a blast on the street.

More fun than the 465?

pic of a cam retainer

it lit bout 100 rpm faster but did not pull as hard up top.

If I were to DD my truck I would have kept the bullet

I been thinking of which charger would be what I want this has me thinking now. I was thinking about a 465.

if you plan to tow anything stay away from the s400 single lol

I did tow quite a few single car trailers with my bullet no problem. I have read some interesting threads on the silver bullet vs the a5000. The a5000 spooled quicker and made more power on the dyno than the bullet did.

Well this is going to be a 2.6 truck when I get it back together. Looking for 600 to the ground and maybe a few trailers puled here and there. Do you know the specs on the 5000 or where you saw that write up at?

it was some thread on comp D

the a5000 is a 71mm compressor so it will not pass the 2.6 plug.

ok as far as turbos im going to check on the silver bullet and see some specs, as far as cam retainer im stupid because the bus motor all ready has one and came stock with a 190hp pump. but i believe 140hp injectors and that pump messed with alittle and a good turbo i could make 600 to 650 possibly i believe what u think

I don't know much about the 190 hp pumps.

For that HP goal its gonna take some time and tuning. Having the fuel is never the issue its alway the air. with a 2.6 charger its gonna take a good cam and some head work to get you where you wanna be

what type of head work ? and what kind of cam? i would like to still be able to drive it on the road some but mostly just haul it and pull it. what kind of cam would you buy?

I run hamilton cams big stick in my truck, big fan of there cams.

As for head work good set of valve springs, port and polish, good valve jod, and o ringed. The port and polish will depend on how much your looking to spend on a head. There are other things you could do like mill off the intake and really port the intake side ... but like I said how much are you willing to spend on the head?

what type of vlave job just sealing or bigger valves? and what kind if money is it to mill it and then really port ?:humm:

for every thing I posted and a milled off intake ... bout $4k.

Bigger valves are always a plus and a 5 angle valve job is a good valve job.