torque plate
 

ok,

so as far as highest to lowest?
how's a #10 plate?

i was thinking that a #10 i would gain the leat from is this true?

the 10 plate is a good plate. if you compare a 10 to a 6. the 10 plate is smaller. they have an 11 and 12 also.

12 is bairly above a stock plate
0 plate is the full fuel holding nothing back plate.

i bought a 10 because i thought it was one of the smallest.

i have no upgrades on my tranny. and i didn't want to harm it thats why i ask.

I ran a #100 plate with a stock tranny for a long time. The little "hook" at the bottom delays full fueling so it's not as hard on the TC.

i have alomst 180,000 miles on my 1st trans. i dunno how much time she has left?

she doesn't slip or anything

the hp from each plate depends on what pump you have. what year is your truck? auto or manual?

i have a p7100 94' auto

Another important consideration is how far forward or rearward its slid.
For a stock auto my vote goes to the #10 as it comes on a little slower to help save the driveline.

a #10 plate will put you at about 200hp. that is with the fuel plate in the stock location.

thats fine with me. i'm not looking for anything big

200 hp up from 160. not bad at all. i am thinking about doing my fuel plate (just got my 94 last week) later on today actually, and grinding it down myself. +40 HP sounds like a more manageable mod than say +80-100 or so or whatever the #0 does.

might ask some more questions and read up on a site or two other than this one before going ahead with things though. :p:

oh, and warren, i just realized now me and you have the same truck, buddy :D

the 100 is the way to go....easy to grind yerself too , here is a good pic of a 100 on the right and a stocker on the left

as one image on another diesel site showed the 100 10 and 0 overlaying one another, i take it the 100 is the cross between the 10 and the 0... i have an image titled allplateprofiles.jpg that one user 12valve posted up, and from the looks of things my above saying is true, as the 100 just shaves off a certain notch the 10 has on it...

what exactly does that do for me? does it mean the 100 fuels harder/longer than the 10? im kinda confused on things, and an explanation would be great as i am wanting to tinker with the plate some time today or tomorrow at least....

you are absolutly right.........the 100 will allow full fuel all except right off the bat....this is better and easier on yer drivetrain

lets see if I can get ths pic a bit better

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/7949/100platelf6.jpg

I think this will help:

Attachment 61302

Whit - how smooth does that curve on the 100 have to be ? Wonder if it makes much of a difference ?

Far as I know Doc, it doesn't need to be polished, just smooth. You want the governor arm to be able to slide up and down without much resistance.

Have you personally done one and tried it?...I thought you were running a #10???


NEVERMIND...I see your sig now.

Doc, mine started out as a #8 and I reground it.

How much better is it? A drastic change?

pretty happy with my #100, but I came from a stock plate so of course it made a lot of difference.

George

I went from a #10 to a #100 and it wasn't a huge improvement.

would anyone advise to get a copy of my stock plate made, as i have access to a friend whom could make me a copy for dirt cheap, just in case? or what? i mean i am just being cautious as i am doing this before my planned transmission upgrade, and if its too much power for the tranny id like some way to be able to go back....

Doc, there was not a big change for me. The biggest change was a decent tranny.
Jeremy, you don't need to worry about a stock plate. If you need to tone down the power, just put the plate toward the rear and keep your foot out of it.

Id like to go with a 100 and 370's. But thats a LOT of fuel - dont think my turbo or tranny would be too impressed with that idea.....I better try the 370's first.

mt personal thoughts on that plate profile that Doc posted is that the 100 profile doesent have enough meat on it where it ramps up............I would leave more metal there ifin it was me

Guys heres the deal on these profiles........it aint rocket science and the profile doesnt hafta be perfect, dont be scared of cutting yer own plate it aint that hard at all

Hey Doc, I will let you know3 how much "improvement" there is on the butt dyno with 370's. I am gonna get some next month.
Tom

Tom, there is a set of used 370's on DTR classifieds right now. I think they were $200

what would be the difference between putting in bigger injectors vs?. grinding the fuel plate? that is to say, why would you do one and not the other?

Probably because I have a stock HX 35 and a stock auto transmission.

sorry, but what i meant was, why get bigger injectors rather than grinding the fuel plate? is there a difference, or do they both mean more fuel?
i'm asking so i can figure out the best move for me to make in this department.

Thats is a very good question...that I dont have a real good answer for.

But, I can tell you this...a buddy of mine is a mechanic and he started out with a #10 GSK and 370's. He went to DDP 4's and he couldnt believe the difference in the truck.

I suspect a fuel plate will not be the same as injectors. Injectors will add fuel at all power levels....not just when you get on the thottle, as with a fuel plate.

If anyone has a better explanation...post away.

Docs got it, here's my spin on it.
The thing is, quality injectors are very expensive but for the most part pump mods are very cheap (some free) so start out with the cheaper mods and work your way up. I'm not sure what your truck is for stock power but you can get quite a large gain from all of them by playing with the pump and keeping your wallet in your pocket. There will come a time that the stock injectors will need to be upgraded to handle the shot of fuel (in the necessary time frame) that a modded P-pump delivers but you shouldn't need to worry about it until you start changing DVs. IMO it takes very few mods to a P-pump to give you more fuel than the stock turbo can handle so unless your planning on changing turbos and doing costly transmission up-grades I would forgo the injector expense.

There you have it...