Going to the dyno
 

I have never been to the dyno with my truck, i am going this weekend and want to get a higher score than my buddie, what can i do that will make good power really easy? do you guys think if i pulled my air filter off for the 3 runs the truck would be ok? and would it be worth it for the power gain? the kids got a 215 pump 97 with stock injectors,timming and dvs, the only thing hes got done to it is the 3000gsk, which i had to do for him. hes got a 0plate, bhaf, and stacks. you guys think i have a chance to even come close? I want to beat him bad bud i don't know if my ole girls gonna have the sack any suggestions would be good. I am going this weekend so i need info fast. I am going to clean the pre filter and put all new fluids and new fuel filter. what other things can i d0:argh:

Bump your timing, That Converter is gonna help you out alot, TRy Draging the brakes to get some boost built up in teh engine. I would not be worried about taking off the air cleaner, just make sure there is no lose dirt or pother crap under your hood that can get sucked in.

why wouldnt you beat him? just from reading your signiture it sounds like you would beat him

pull your plate out

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make sure you run with over drive off converter locked in 3rd

brake boost the hell out of it, i have been on 2 dynos and the frist one i was running 7 to 10 psi and put out 370hp and 900ftlbs torque the 2nd time i played on the dyno (same dyno) rode the brakes hard. boost went from 10 to 45psi and put down 440hp and 1200ftlbs torque. Also was on a Dyno jet dyno, they dont load the turbo.

want to hit the dyno agian since installed injectors and changed the timing to see what i can put down.

If you have a little time, pull the afc off and do the mods to it. Grind the angle on the foot flat, and switch the washer around the diaphragm. Then pull the plate out and run plate-less. Doing this will definitely give you the edge over him. I think you'll be surprised by how much advantage you'll really have. Also like said above, make your Pull in 3rd with the converter locked and ride the brakes a little to help build load. You should have him beat for sure.
Sean

switch the washer around the diaphragm??? whats this

If you take the AFC apart, there is a diaphragm inside. On either side of the diaphragm there is a washer. 1 of the washers is cup shaped switching the cup shaped washer with the normal washer will allow for increased rack travel. However, it is kind of like turning up the smoke screw a little as it increases low/0 boost fueling. Replacing the cupped washer with a modified flat washer and leaving the other washer in place will give you the best of both worlds.
Hope this helps a little, I'll try and dig up some pics if you want.

Also, once you have the AFC off the truck, disassembly is pretty easy. If you are pulling the AFC to do the plate, its not going to take that much more time to mod your afc internals as well. Many people will completely gut the AFC which will give you full rack travel (the same as modding it). But that limits smoke control and actually tuning of the fuel:boost ratio.
Sean

o ok... well mines gutted at the moment bc i ground the foot and i havent got around to puttin it in yet, so basically its like being able to turn the smoke screw more towards the engine than it will actually go?

Not really. Switching the washers around the diaphragm allows everything to travel further and ultimately gives you more rack travel where as screwing in the smoke screw only gives you more fuel at zero boost. The thing about switching the washers around the diaphragm is that if the cupped washer is still used it doesn't allow for the foot to return all the way to the stock position at zero boost. This has a similar effect to turning the smoke screw in.

So switching the washers has the same effect as turning the smoke screw in a little bit, but also allows for more over all rack travel as well. Running 2 flat washers and ditching the cupped washer, has no effect on zero boost fueling and still allows for increased rack travel. The purpose of flipping the washers is for rack travel not zero boost fueling, but it has that as an unintended consequence. The next limiting factor to rack travel is the foot of the arm, and then the rack plug at the other end of the pump. However, rack plugs require removal of the pump, and are detrimental to performance in the 215 pumps.
Sean

so r we gonna gain a noticable difference if we put the 2 washers in w/ the foot ground but the stock rack plug?

Dyno run was a little disapointing, i couldn't drive it, so i didn't ride the brakes, it was boosting @ 40psi and the egts went to 1600* i hit 130 mph and made max tourque of663.67 and max hp of 276.71. The transmission seemed to not be slipping, but i was not happy with how hot the egts got and how low the power was. i didn't run an airfilter. i left the set up in my sig so i could have a bases. i got schooled by my friend he had 377 hp and 840 hp. well next step is going to be grind the foot on the afc control and flip thoes washers, i want to see how that drives, then when funds come into the play upgrade the turbo, and get some 90hp stick from ddp. i hope this will up the power. Cause i was very disapointed with these numbers, i didn't even get my score on the board.:ouch:

grind the barrel not the foot of the afc this will give you less low end fueling with more top end.

change you trubo housing to a 16cm, 18.5cm,21cm, or upgrade the turbo. that little 12cm housing is chokeing you on the top end. remove fuel plate, adjust gov arm all the way up, tune the afc, add rack plug, add head studs, set timing to 19*, and try dyno again :U:

All the fuel tricks in the world does one absolutely ZERO on a dyno without the turbo to make efficent use of it.

40psi is about at the end of the rope on a HX35 and once you cross that all you do is heat the air instead of cooling it.Couple the amount of fuel you have with the 12cm exhaust and you will see the extremely high temps your seeing.If you do not have the coin now for a charger look for a used 16cm housing and it will take some temp out of the deal and allow you time until you can afford a aftermarket turbo.

The first mod I said was a bigger housing or turbo if he can. with the extra air the fueling mods I said will make a great combo. Its all about when you bring the fuel on for the dyno to early lost of heat and little power to late no power at all. you have to play with it and find a good balance. I'm not saying air is not important because it is that determines how much fuel you can throw at it and still make power.