Gov spring kit tips
 

I just bought the 3G gsk from ddp, any tips on the ins:humm:tal? never did it before? my truck has a #6 fuel plate full forward,afc full forward,star wheel is full tilt, stock turbo, stock injectors and stock delivery valves. should the truck run ok with the gov spring kit.

Yeah... Uh... Where to start...

Alright, first off, remove the AFC and shutoff assembly, then duct tape the AFC housing closed to keep crap from getting in there. Pull the intake horn, and tube. You should be able to see the 21mm plug on the side of the pump. Pop it open. Oh wait... Your truck looks lifted. If it is, I advise you to pull the front wheels and tires, and rest the front end (rotors) on a few blocks of wood. It'll drop the front end and help you get to the pump.

Okay, so pull the plug, 21mm socket. You probably won't be able to see the retainers, so you'll need to take a 3/4" socket and put it on the alternator pulley and turn the engine over.

Once you can see the retainer, measure the stud protrusion. WRITE IT DOWN... :w2:

Now you'll need to remove the retainer. There are a few tools that will do it, I've found two that work the best. One is a set of needle nose pliers (not Leatherman's), the other is a Calk Wrench used for tightening calks on logging boots. Golf cleat wrenches might work as well.

Once you have the retainer off, pull the springs out, be careful not to let anything fall into the pump, its almost impossible to get it out if it falls in. Now put the new springs in, along with any spacers that the directions tell you to.

Re-assemble that side, making sure to get the same stud protrusion that was there originally.

Now turn the engine over and do the same to the other set...

Assemble everything back together, and fire the truck up. It should idle slightly higher, but not over 925RPM, if it does, open it back up, and loosen the springs 2 clicks. Eventually you'll get it to the right setting. Don't over-do it trying to set the idlea few clicks is okay... Too many and it might start to hang at high RPM.

Anything else? :U:

the thing i learned when i did mine was dont drop anything. i did and it took forever to get it out and i found parts i didnt even know i droped in there.
heres a good link how to CumminsDatabase.com :: Governor Spring Kit
in the 2nd pic there is a throdle arm i took it off to get to it. when you do there is a small key that keeps it from spinning. dont let it fall in the pump :argh: i also used a magnet to pull all the parts out so i wouldnt drop any more parts and to fish the ones i did drop out. have fun :c:

sounds like a bitch, i hope its worth the trouble, sounds like it is. Thanks for the information guys, i can't wait to try it out. i'll let you know how it worked for me. BTW, now that i am getting into it, what should i do next? DV, Injectors? turbo? i want power, 500hp and like 8-900 ft lbs tourque... respectable numbers for sure:U:

Its not as bad as it sounds... The throttle arm is the shutoff lever, and yes, it has to come off, just make sure the key doesn't come off when you pull it off the stud. Next thing would be injectors. You could step up to 181, or 191 DV's, but its not gonna get you much more power at the moment. Another thing... Move your starwheel back a bit, you're probably over fueling down low... It smoke like a beast, but it kills low end power by smothering the combustion.

my truck dont smoke really unless i hit the break and spool it up, or just give it a quick rev, my budies truck smokes way more than mine like a machine, mine will just puff a little under a load but clears up quick, maybe my pre filter is clogged? it shoud be fueling more. right?

it took me about 2 hours to figure mine out, READ THE DIRECTIONS make sure all springs get put in i forgot to install some and it ran like crap:argh:

Well, if your AFC is really all the way forward, and the plate is full forward, and the Starwheel is as loose as possible, then yes, it should be smoking a lot more. If you're at a stop, and you hammer the pedal, it should pour smoke, then eventually clear up. But that's not what you want it to do. With a set of injectors, you'll smoke a lot more.

well i am going to pull it apart to do the gov spring, and i am going to check the pre filter, i never knew about that till i read about it in DB, so once i get my gsk, i will get to work. see what i find.

I've done it twice... 3k then the 4k. It does sound like a nightmare - but it is quite the opposite. Don't worry. I think I could do it blind folded now. (Figuratively speaking....:w2:)

Here is what you should expect to see come out when you do the GSK... Take my advice and go in from the side 22mm nut. I couldn't imagine it being much easier - JUST DON'T DROP ANYTHING!:eek: Have a good pencil magnet. I dropped a washer and was being EXTREMLY careful... luckily it landed inside the large spring and I was able to lock on again with the magnet. I think I blew a snot bubble at that exact moment...

Get a set of dial calipers - Digital ones are available for around $19 or less at Harbor Freight - Northern Tool, etc.

The first thing you remove is the split nut that needs to be removed and replaced at exactly the same depth (.061 approx) from the top of the bolt that all of these springs slide over.

Once that is off you are home bound - just remove the parts and replace with the new. Put the nut back on to spec as mentioned and rotate the engine at the altenator to do the other side.

Yes - that easy.

Attachment 53548