cummins pyrometer
 

hi, i have a 96 dodge with a 12 valve and im looking for anyone that has any tips for installing a pyrometer.
if anyone has done it and can post pictures or just help out id appreciate it.
thanks

:hi: use some grease so the metal shavings dont all fall in the hole and have a vacume on it. a magnet that will fit in the hole will help to get some out too. same thing when tapping.

:hi:

Take your time when using Tap

:howdy:

:hi: Welcome to DB!!

And run the tap in 3/4 of the way - no more.


I might be able to snap a pic for you tonight.

are they all threaded the same?
what size tap do they use?
anyoneknow exactly where to drill the hole?
i know theres a serperator in the middle and theres parts that are thicker than other?
any help would be appreceiated

Depends on your thermocouple. Some are 1/8" npt (the preferred one), some are 1/4" npt, and some are post turbo.

The site I usually refer people to is down right now.

its a 1/8" npt fitting.
so it will be a 1/8 tap?
where can i buy anti seize

The bit should be letter "R" for 1/8" npt and a 7/16" bit for a 1/4" npt.

Anti sieze is available from just about any parts store - I like the Nickle stuff myself.

When I drilled and tapped mine I had a buddy hold a shop vac close to the bit and I cleaned out unside the manifold with a Q- tip with grease on it. Its best to keep out and many chips as possible.

I know for mine they said to use a 21/64 drill bit for drilling the manifold

21/64" = 0.328"
R = 0.339"

YOUR GOOOOOOD:ouch:


















:lol88:

thanks for all the info guys.
ill probably go out and buy a brand new bit for the job.
i am also looking for a fuel plate for my truck..
i use it mostly for just driving but i want a little more power for heavy towing and just showing off everyone once in a while... what # should i buy?
thanks

Here the pics Dan:

Attachment 55379


Attachment 55380


Attachment 55381


As for the fuel plate, you can grind your stocker of get them cheap from e-bay - theres not need to pay $200+

Here the pics Dan:

Attachment 55376


Attachment 55377


Attachment 55378





Theres a good guide here:

PDR Diesel Inc. The turbo diesel performance specialists! - Pyrometer Probe Installation



As for the fuel plate, you can grind your stocker of get them cheap from e-bay - theres no need to pay $200+

thanks for the pics!
im planning on getting the plate off ebay..
what # should i get?
i dont want to have to make any modifications or mess with the governor.
i just want a direct drop in fuel plate to give me a lil more power! lol
please let me know what #:U:

Make sure you catch the guide I posted from the PDR site.


As for the fuel plate - Im no expert but check your other thread. Im sure there are more people that will make their recommendations.

k thanks

i got a 65 dollar #o and it was well worth it off ebay

i got the $65 one off ebay too, a #10. it came with the guide plate and all the screws and a elbow with it.

I see you have a 96 5 speed. Do you have a stock clutch? do you tow much? If you tow a lot and have a stock clutch i would say go with a #11 for the 215 pump in my opinion there is no better all around plate for a stockish truck. You can tow with the plate in the stock position with a stock clutch and tow with it slid forward if your easy on it. If you dont tow much i would go with the #10 or cut your own to a #100 and put them in the stock position till you have a good cluch. If you go this way be easy on the throttle down low or you will start slipping it. If you’re really easy on it slide tem forward but remember the #10 makes 350 and 750 and a stock clutch isn’t going to take that for very long. I wouldn’t go with a #0. If you wanted to run a #0 at Full Forward you would have to adjust your gov arm or risj it sliding under the plate. I have also heard that a #0 doesn’t add much if any more hp tan a #100 to a stock truck. Hope this helps a little

I have had a #11, #10, #0, #100, banks, pensacola, and many many other custom plates that i have made myself. If i were you id cut my own #100. Or if you dont have a grinder buy a #10 and stick in the stock location till you got a nice clutch.
:c:

You wont find much better info that that!

i just tried installing the fuel plate tonight and i couldnt break the stock tamper proof bolt with a chisel and its like destroyed.
how can i get it off?

There tuff. I always use a chisel then a flat head screw driver. You also might want to put something like WD40 on it to loosen it up some. Take a pic of it maybe we can give you some tips.

WD-40 is for lubricating stuff, use PB plaster its the best

Wd40 always works for me but penetrating lube would be better.

The only thing WD-40 is good for is displacing moisture and removing sharpie ink !!


Guys, check out KROIL - this stuff literally eats rust:

KanoLabs.com


Also, you can make a good penetrating oil by mixing ATF and Acetone. But be careful with it as its hard on rubber parts.

Can you drill it and use a screw extractor?


Some pics would be good.

theyre next to impossible to drill without taking fuel lines off i had the same thing happen to me i ended up taking the whole pupm off good thing to found the input seal was goin bad:argh:

i can try to take a picture but the screws next to desrtoyed i thought about drillin a hole in it putting a steel rod in the hole, welding the rod to the screw and then turning the rod hopeing the screw loosens too.
but my dad said theres a good chance it would pry just break at the welds..
i gotta get this thing off tho.
my local diesel injection shop said they could pry replace the whole thing in an hour but he said they charge 89$ an hour! thats more than i paid for the fuel plate!
idk tho but i gotta get it out one way or another thanks.

I dunno. You have to keep working at it. Have you tried penetrating oil?? Have you tried heating it? Sometimes heat helps.

Good luck.

I would try welding on it first. If that doesnt work try drilling out. However if your time is worth more than 89.00 an hour take it to the shop. But before you waste your money I would try and do anything to get it off.

Im sure doc knows a thing or three about rust.

well considering todays thanks giving the most im gunna do with it is try to go get a picture for you guys.
im not guna be working on it today..
maby tonight tho
i was getting so frustrated last night i about just puched a dent in the door.
lol

Try some KROIL...you can pick it up at most gun shops:

KanoLabs.com

ill call my local gunshop about that kroilmy point now is its not that the screws just stuck, it about destroyed there nothing left to hit on it but heres some pictures there not the greatest but i tried
http://http://i431.photobucket.com/a...n/103_0266.jpg

http://http://i431.photobucket.com/a...n/103_0267.jpg


http://http://i431.photobucket.com/a...n/103_0268.jpgthanks!

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http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/q...n/103_0267.jpg


http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/q...n/103_0266.jpg
maby these ones will work

Hey, you need to use the macro mode on your camera (the setting that has the little flower)...the pics will turn out much better.


Looks like you did a pretty good job on it. I think the next step is to to cut the head off the screw, lift off the AFC housing to get it out of the way and then probably drill out the rest of the screw (make sure you cover anything expsoed very well, you dont want metal inside your pump). You might have to drill a larger hole, tap it, and use the next bigger bolt/screw. Be careful doing this.

if i remember yould have to braze it not weld it mine was brass for some reason and like dr evil said if you can cut just the head off the screw there will be enough there to get some small vise grips on it and turn it out thats what the guys at cummins told me to do if i ever attemted doing one on a stock truck again

what would be the easyest wait to cut the head off the bolt?

Have you tried pinching it with a good set of vice grips?