4k gsk problem
 

I installed a 4k gsk on a buddies 12 valve and now its breaking up like crazy at about 1800 rpm. It ran great before and its his daily driver so hes not happy. I double checked and there are no shims left. The adjustment nut was at .04 stock, and I put the new ones to the same. Ive adjusted a few times and they are now at .015 and still doing it. It Idles perfect but when free revved at 17-1800 it breaks up and the black smoke is followed by lots of white. I thought about giving more fuel so we turned his starwheel full forward and no change. I was going advance his timing but i wont have an extra helping hand until the weekend.
Thoughts???
Thanks

To start make sure the fuel filter is fresh and the lift pump is working like it should.

lift pump is pumping good. Theres no fuel pressure gauge so I don't know any numbers, and the filter is said to have about 1500-2000 miles on it

Shut off solenoid binding and not pulling up all the way?

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Just went out and checked that and its coming all the way up, and it sounds nice and strong until you throttle up. But at like 1800 it acts like its red lining. I don't get it. I know the springs aren't too tight, and I figured that's what is was the first time we cranked it.

If anything I'd think your too loose.

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Try backing the springs off ... than tighten till you feel the first initial click and add 4 more to it on both sides

Great way to set them if you question your numbers! At least gets you a spot to tune from!

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Ok ill try that tonight. I think that was about how many clicks it was at, at .04 but not positive. I find out though

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Hmm... Just a thought. I dont remember having a washer type shim as the very last in my pump but his did. I wonder if i just missed mine? Or is it supposed to stay? It wasnt anything like all the rest, looked like a standard wide washer

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no change going to the first small click plus 4. Other than it seemed to idle back down a little slower. :s: :argh:

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how does the tightness effect the fueling?
Tighter =higher rpm fueling?
and looser will not allow it to fuel as far correct?

Tighter should fuel harder down low and rev out higher and low is the opposite, and your sure all the springs are in there? idle spring inner and little spring right?

3 came with the kit plus the biggest one that was already in there

when you did the spring swap did you come in the side plug or through the top where the afc is?

came through the side. Stuck a magnent to the stud and grabbed all the shims with a pick and pulled them out over the magnent so nothing could fall inside the pump

if you slowly bring the rpms up does it rev up well?
if you however smack the throttle you get a big studder and lots of white smoke?

i take gov springs all the way down and loosen if i have to i normally can get six clicks after initial.

i just had a mack in the shop that ran well started in sub zero weather without being plugged in but white smoked like mad and broke up if you smacked the throttle. we just rebuilt the pump a few weeks back and had turned him up just a bit. found out that we had the pump gear a tooth off and had timing around 5* it wanted to be at 11*. my point is your situation sounds incredibly similiar. i would pin time the engine and pump and see if it has slipped. it wount take you but a few miniutes and you can mark that off your list. i bet your timing tab is pointed to the top of the window though, and just a few * out.

well I just got a timing kit and I got everything where I need to be (accessably and ready to time) but I just need that extra hand to turn the engine over under the truck.

And yes if I slowly rev its smooth. If I mat it it pours black for a sec and then solid white. but both ways about 18-2000 its popping like hell.

I was thinking that on the 6 clicks, I was tempting to just start clicking away until I got it up. Only thing that stopped me is. considering the big spring or idle spring I guess... If its real tight will it still idle right? OR can I add some stock shims back into the other springs. This kit was from PEAK performance. Id never heard of them

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as far as timing being set, the videos of "timing in 40 mins" is it a pretty accurate video or is there anything I should do different?

mine are peaks, from years ago and are shimmed out. to tight on the idle spring (largest) and it wont idle right.

just pin the engine and pump and see if the timing pin is in the window. you might not need to piddle with it. extra timing WONT fix this problem if it hasnt slipped. DONT FIX WHATS NOT BROKE!!!! find this problem then mess with some extra timing if you so choose. i want you to simply check the current timing to see if it has slipped.

and i use you-tube for music not for turning wrenches? cant help you there

but timing from the balancer takes about 15min and timing from the plunger takes and hour or so.

I know you said the shutdown goes all the way up but does it stay there after the truck starts?

We'll I got it straightened out finally! I haven't had much time off work until today. After turning to 6 clicks it still ran the same checked timing and it was fine so i added 3* timing and put her up to 3800. It still breaks up just a tiny bit at about 2500 if I am slowly free revving. But, I've got some chewed up DV Orings and a leaky 1 injector at the horse shoe washer. I didn't think about getting any until I had it all apart. But 10 times better!