P7100 Injection pumps differences.
 

I bought a 1995 dodge cummins :jump: yesterday with 113400 miles on it. Its a manual tranny cab and chassi. My question is whats the difference between the 175hp manual tranny injection pump in the 1995 and the 215hp pump in the 1996 and ups. Is it simply the delivery valves being 181's where I have the 131's :humm:. Or is there also a difference in the injectors too :humm:. Is there diifference in the pump that makes the difference in hp other than injectors and delivery valves.
Thanks for you time.

the cam shaft is the later pumps allows for a quicker rate of fuel delivery. so they make more power @ higher rpms. they flow a it more fuel, have 181 DV's and have something like 5x10.5 injectors where as you most likely have something like 5x9.5 injectors.
awsome score on the truck with that low of miles. do not get in your head that you ...little pump... cant make any power. the only reason to change it out would be to make power in the 700+ range or because you fried the original and have one laying around.

Thanks this helps me alot, The pump will do everything that i wanna do I plan on doing alot to the truck over time its not may daily driver. Its gonna be my tow rig primarily. I want a little more power and some fuel economy when towing.

the 215 personally are best for second gens, i'd sell the p7100 and buy a 215. but theres also the 180 that does well, what are you wanting to do?

The only real reason to get rid of the 175/160 pumps is if your trying to make power above 3500 rpm ... other than that reason I will take the 175/160 over the 180 or 215 anyday

nice set of Delivery Valves seemed to help me out quite a bit. make the flow real nice!

My goal is to build it to tow with. I want the egt to stay in good range. I will be pulling my rock crawler with it. I'm considering a set of budget twins. Maybe the stocker over an ht3b. I don't really want to have to o'ring, or fire ring the head and i'd like to stay with the stock head bolts. So twins might be more than the stock head gasket and factory bolts can stand. Any help with a configuration that will be good for towing will be appreciated. Whats a good set of delivery valves, injectors, fuel plate to run. Clutch will be upgraded when it dies. Have my gauges but don't have them in yet.

Unless you never use what you've got, twins will be too much for the stock HG and studs. I lifted my head with just the stock turbo @45psi.
How heavy is your crawler? I regularly hit the scales weighing over 20K, and that was before I did injectors and head work. I had no problem at all towing these loads (hundreds of miles a week) and maintaining at least the speed limit on all hills and highways, with just an exhaust, GSK, no plate and the AFC forward (and a damn good transmission, but with a stick truck you shouldn't have a problem). My EGTs never went anywhere near the red, 1200-1300 was high for me and I was never there for long. I average around 600-1000 pulling. You won't need DVs, injectors or a fancy turbo(s) to get this job done just fine. I do, however, highly recommend head studs at the very least. o-rings are great, but I've found that head work can become a domino effect that balloons faster than a spooling hairdryer...

You've got a good plan going on. Twins are a must for awesome towing capability. You can use bolts, but torque them to 125 lb-ft, or 150 lb-ft if you're feeling froggy. If one bolt turns way more than the others, replace it. As a minimum, get the head surfaced too, mine blew on my 95 even with studs, because it was so far off.

So with all this good info, whats a good fuel plate to run. Exhaust, exhaust manifold, and better intake will be in the works. I have 3 k gov springs, boost elbow, and gauges all uninstalled at the moment. I will eventually have the timing bumped to 16 degrees my fuel mileage is not that great above 55 mph only about 14.5 mpg. I have 4.10's so I guess this is to be expected. My rock crawler weighs 5000 lbs and I haven't purchased a trailer yet, still trying to decide on goose neck or bumper pull, cash is a factor on that. I know its expensive but I'm digging that pusher 3.5 mega twin intake. I'm keeping it below 60 this week and checking mileage again.

put your intake on, your gov springs in, and get a good exhaust system. Don't waste your money on an intake manifold or exhaust manifold, use the money you save there for a set of injectors and a supply fuel pump.

And exhaust manifold is only a bad investment until the crappy oem single piece casting warps and cracks your head.

If the wastegate is modified and its allowed to cool down before the motor is shutdown the manifolds don't seem to crack near as much

My manifold cracked because it was bolted to something else while it expanded. It expanded because it got hot, not because it wasn't allowed to cool before it... cooled. Before it sounds like I'm just being argumentative, I've learned a lot from you here and I'm hoping to learn something else now: I fail to see how modifying the wastegate has anything to do with when the engine gets killed. Or how it keeps the manifold from getting hot enough to expand at a different rate than the head in the first place, for that matter- although I might be able to logic that part out.

Most manifolds I have seen that crack either crack where the collector is or on the back three cylinders. Opening the gate up allows more energy and heat to bypass the very restrictive hx35 lowering the temps seen and relieving the pressure built up in the manifold.

:humm:

OK, that makes sense.
Still, small price to pay to not have to worry about it.

Thing is the aftermarket ones will crack as well. Had a T4 3 piece on my truck that cracked right at the divider less than a year of me having it. After getting the pressures and heat in the collector back in check have not had an issuse since

Huh, never heard of that. Well, not with a good one anyway. I've heard of cheap ones leaking.

Was a PDI t4 never leaked till it cracked