NEW BALL JOINT PROBLEMS
i just put in the upper and lower ball joints, i went to add some grease and the bottom took well but the top on the other hand is messed up. when i started to pump it in, the bearing started to come out of the top!!!!!!:argh::scare2::dang: i thought i had put to much in so i attempted to take the grease zert off and the ball joint SPINS!!! is it a bad ball joint? or is MOOG susposed to do that (i called O'rileys and they said some of them do that) or did i tighten it to much??????
|
Hopefully someone chimes in.
But the only other thing I can say is, MOOG wasn't a great choice in balljoints. :ouch: |
the reason i went with moog is bc a friend of mine replaces a ton of these in 03 cummins 3500 alot! not because there bad ball joints but because they have a huge fleet of cummins, and alot of the weight is up front, and that is all he recomends. but what do you recomend?
|
Can't say for sure because there a lot of mixed reviews on all of them.
When I do mine, I'm having the dealer do it. One, warranty (12 month, 12,000 miles), two I don't have time to do mine, three I don't have the tools. To me, the $1500 or so it's gonna cost is better than having me fight it and saving the $700 in labor. I'll be close to 140,000 miles on mine when it goes in. |
2 Attachment(s)
here is what it looked like after i added grease. before, they were all the way down!
Attachment 22893 Attachment 22894 |
Does it steer better, worse? Might have to give a new upper off the shelf a good eyeball, maybe a pic of it, see where things sit. :humm:
|
I am replacing both sides and The look the same. I had done this side just the same way it came out and the way the other side looks but I'm going to call moog tomorrow morning to see what they say.
|
Nooo there are suppose to sit tight not pop out loose either your control arms are out of spec or you have crappy Ball Joints
|
I hope it's the ball joints because i just took out the originals and the one I'm having a problem with now was a pain in the ass to get out, I had to use as much force as I could on the tool and then beat the side of the housing (it's a 3500 so it's got an AAM solid front end) I'm going to measure it tomorrow and see if it measures out the same as the old one
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- just got off the phone with moog and they said that they have not heard of this problem and the only thing that they can think of is that the valleys for the grease to run into the boot is clogged and thats why its pushing it back out. ---AutoMerged DoublePost--- just changed it out. must have been a defaulty ball joint bc the new one is TIGHT just the way i kike it! |
Originally Posted by helton87
(Post 822693)
I hope it's the ball joints because i just took out the originals and the one I'm having a problem with now was a pain in the ass to get out, I had to use as much force as I could on the tool and then beat the side of the housing (it's a 3500 so it's got an AAM solid front end) I'm going to measure it tomorrow and see if it measures out the same as the old one
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- just got off the phone with moog and they said that they have not heard of this problem and the only thing that they can think of is that the valleys for the grease to run into the boot is clogged and thats why its pushing it back out. ---AutoMerged DoublePost--- just changed it out. must have been a defaulty ball joint bc the new one is TIGHT just the way i kike it! |
I just exchanged out the part but ya im glad it wasnt the eyeball!
thank you all btw! |
Just read all this. Glad everything worked out! I dont think i have ever a Moog do that out of the box!
|
when i brought it back to o'rileys they measured it and it was off, im not sure by how much but the micometer had room to play! i also called federal-mogle and they said they have never heard of it either. one of the guys in tech support said and i quote "maybe one of the jurnals for the grease to go to the boot is clogged":lol88: if its new what is in there to clog it?????:lol88:
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Originally Posted by wildbill
(Post 822642)
Can't say for sure because there a lot of mixed reviews on all of them.
When I do mine, I'm having the dealer do it. One, warranty (12 month, 12,000 miles), two I don't have time to do mine, three I don't have the tools. To me, the $1500 or so it's gonna cost is better than having me fight it and saving the $700 in labor. I'll be close to 140,000 miles on mine when it goes in. i just realized this but are they charging you $800 for 4 ball joints????? because my total cost was $280 (i get a military discount) so your price is about $320 and if labor is $700 there taking about $480 and sticking it in their pocket. just thought i would let you know so you dont get screwed.:c: |
It's probably going to be more if I have em change the hubs and axle u-joints.
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:28 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands