48RE Transmission problems
 

When a take off from a stop if I drive easy it wants to shift back in forth from 1st to 2nd. Also there is a more than normal lag time on down shifts when I got on it. I have a stock tranny w/ a Goerand triple disc converter. Any of you guys have any ideas. Also do you guys know a good shop around OKC, OK to start taking my truck to get work done?

you'll have to adjust your bands around 30k. What you'll notice is a lunging at low rpm's in 2 gear, it'll feel like it is shifting in and out of gear. You have two bands on that tranny, (48re) 1/2 and reverse, only the 1/2 is externally adjusteable. That is the one you probably need to adjust. On the drivers side of the tranny just above the pan you'll see a torx head with a jam nut, back off the jam nut, the torx should tighten freely by hand, tighten by hand until it stops, torque to 72 INCH POUNDS, NOT ft lbs. Then back off 1 3/4 turns, tighten jam nut, being sure that the torx bolt doesn't move from its 1 3/4 turn out position. I don't want to step on any toes here, but adjusting your tranny bands is a MANDANTORY service, and not doing so WILL effect the life of your tranny. If you refer to your owners manual it shows it as a required service interval at 30k along with a new tranny filter and fluid.

ADJUSTMENT - BANDS
FRONT BAND
The front (kickdown) band adjusting screw (2) is
located on the left side of the transmission case above
the manual valve and throttle valve levers.
1. Raise vehicle.
2. Loosen band adjusting screw locknut. Then back
locknut (1) off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting screw
turns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screw
threads if necessary.
3. Tighten band adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in. lbs.)
torque with an appropriate Torx™ socket.
CAUTION: If Adapter C-3705 is needed to reach
the adjusting screw, tighten the screw to only 5
N·m (47-50 in. lbs.) torque.
4. Back off front band adjusting screw 1-3/4 turns, for
diesel vehicles, or 1-1/2 turns, for V-10 vehicles.
5. Hold adjuster screw in position and tighten locknut to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
6. Lower vehicle.



REAR BAND
The transmission oil pan must be removed for access
to the rear band adjusting screw (1).
1. Raise vehicle.
2. Remove transmission oil pan and drain fluid.
3. Loosen band adjusting screw locknut 5-6 turns. Be
sure adjusting screw turns freely in lever.
4. Tighten adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in. lbs.)
torque.
5. Back off adjusting screw 3 turns.
6. Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten locknut to
34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
7. Position new gasket on oil pan and install pan on
transmission. Tighten pan bolts to 17 N·m (13 ft.
lbs.) torque.
8. Lower vehicle and refill transmission with MoparT ATF +4, Automatic Transmission fluid.

Normally that is the gov solenoid not funtioning properly. Pretty easy to change during a service. Might want to at least check your band adjustment if it has never been done. Carefully follow all instructions and double check it. Mess it up and it will cost you a rebuild.

I apologize for leaving a few things out, It downshifts a little firmer coming down into 2nd and 1st. Also when I put it in tow haul it downshifts so hard it scares me. I totally forgot sorry. Does that change anything? Thanks again for all your help.

Running tow/haul increases line pressure, in turn increasing pressure on the clutch packs so they don't slip under load.

Just points more towards the gov pressure solenoid/transducer. Change them first before chasing too many ghost problems.

Would this maintenance be covered under the factory warranty?

There is a TSB for it and they should cover it under the warranty if you still have it. However, don't tell them you have an aftermarket TC or they will deny warranty on your whole truck.

Go complain about shuttle shifting, harsh upshifts and down shifts. Take the tech for a ride and show him what it does, don't let them look for it or they won't find it. You might get lucky and they will treat you right.

I still have the factory warranty :ok1: on the truck so instead of driving down to VA this weekend I might be driving to the local stealership. My truck shifts hard every once and a while into overdrive so maybe that will be fixed by this adjustment. But if not I might just have to try this adjustment myself. Thanks for the info.

Do you happen to know which triple TC you got?

FYI, the trans will shift harder with the triple than the single because there is NO slippage in there and th epulse to unlock the TC between drive and OD doesn't unlock the TC. Does it rattle your teeth with the OD shift-lock with TH on?

FYI, the triples are hard on input shafts just in case nobody told you. It gets worse when you add a shift kit and raise the line pressures. From what I have seen, a billet input is almost a must if you have a good triple disk TC.

Take a run at the dealer and see if they will help you out. If they don't/won't post back and I will give a couple links to the aftermarket pieces that are much better.

For all I know the TC in my truck is the stock one. I am the second owner though and the original owner just used the truck to pull a 5th wheel camper (or so I'm told). I don't remember the shift into OD being hard when I was towing and when in TH the shifts still didn't seem excessively hard. I'll give the dealership that I bought the truck a call tomorrow and see if they can shed some light onto what has been done to the truck as far as TSBs are concerned. Today when going to and from work everything felt fine, I think the hard shift only comes when I'm accelerating hard.

No kiddin'. It's called the 1-2 shuttle shift, due to a run of some cr@p-azz solenoids that got installed at the factory. They tried to tell me there was nothing wrong with mine after I left it there with a copy of the TSB and detailed verbal description of the symptoms I was experiencing. I had to suggest a talk with the service manager before the dimwits agreed to do it as a "customer courtesy." Bastiches. :bat:

Why in your first post did you say it had a Goerends Triple disk????

I didnt, my truck is still stock to the best of my knowledge. Murphystrut said his truck had one, I just made a comment that my truck shifts hard going into OD.

Woops! Sorry, I missed the name and post combination. :ouch:

I have the same prob... The story is long and drawn out but they put new gov silenoid, new TQ converter, new bands, new valve body, and re flashed ECM and TCM before telling me the Dyno trailer I pull was 200lbs over the rated weight...:argh:
So, I still have a warrwnty on this 2007 5.9L. You think the dealer would know if I changed/tightened the bands up? Just the one on the outside of the trans, or is that even doable without adjusting both?

I was reading a thread wear Irishman85 was experiencing some of the same problems. Another guy was saying something about how he got 2 other trucks that were experiencing the 1-2 shuttle shifts re-flashed at the dealership. I ask because I asked a diesel tech at the dealership and he said that re-flashing wouldn't fix the problem. Is that true. I ask because I've got some time this week and I'm gonna replace the solonoid and adjust the bands and just wanna make sure that it's not in vein. Once again you guys have been so awesome, I appreciate all your help!

make sure that if you change the transducer that you do not bump it or drop it it will ruin it

Been fighting that for 212,000 miles. Truck is down again, third time. Had enough.

I have the same thing. I was told Band Adjustements, Governor Pressure solenoid and transducer. I already bought everything, then I get told about the Borg Warner upgraded Governor Pressure solenoid. So when you go to get anew solenoid get the Borg Warner or Suncoast one, not the mopar.