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-   -   Long crank/ no start (https://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9-liter-cr-dodge-cummins-03-07/110362-long-crank-no-start.html)

Snowman 03-16-2013 11:33 AM

Long crank/ no start
 
Hey guys haven't been on here in a long time! But I got an issue with a buddies truck and need some help. It's an 03 cummins, truck is basically stock, except for an edge EZ, 4 inch exhaust. So the problem is the truck basically won't start when it's cold, but if you plug it in it some times starts. Very rarely. And when it's warm it has excessively long crank times, sometimes 30 seconds sometimes shorter. When running it runs great, good mileage, and good power. So far I found 3 leaking injector tubes and replaced those, no real difference, except when it's warm. It's a bit better when it warms up. I'm headed to the shop now to go and check a few more things out. Oh and it has one code. It's not recognizing the ignition key, but cleared it and now it's gone. Thanks.

97cummins 03-18-2013 01:32 AM

He may have an ecu issue:humm:

Snowman 03-18-2013 01:35 AM

I was wondering if it maybe needed a ecu reflash??

97cummins 03-18-2013 01:56 AM

Thats possable, on the big rigs we have to do updates to the cummins motors on them when the updates come out.

Snowman 03-18-2013 10:14 AM

Ill definetly check into that.

minncountryboy 03-18-2013 05:36 PM

Have you cleaned the battery cables? I'd give that a try to!

Snowman 03-20-2013 01:34 AM

So was working on the truck tonight and decided to cap off each injector line one at a time and found numbers 1,3, and 5 to be very weak and not even make a difference at all while running. So I know the injectors are shot then. But I also tested the intake heater and found that it had over 1 ohm resistance on the top grid and .4 ohm on the bottom grid. I found a test procedure while back and it said less then .2 ohms is spec. Does this sound right for the grid heater??

CHEMMINS 03-20-2013 03:40 PM

Grid heater shouldn't make a difference when it is warm. Many people remove the grid in the warmer climates.

upwfo 03-22-2013 01:57 PM

i'm going with the key,,,,, if you left it in when u cut all the power and hooked back up later like 12hrs later i would try a deferent key if you got one handie,,, i just learnd that on the other day put a new 48re in and it wouldn't crank :argh: ran the codes and had a key code show up well put another key in and old 315000mile girl woke up and was all normal and ready to work i'm not sure what i did wrong :humm: ain't had a bit of prob sense :tu:

Snowman 03-22-2013 08:15 PM

the grid heater is shot so i'm replacing that. i know it should still start without the grid heater but figured it may cause a longer then normal crank.

i cant see the key causing a long crank cause if you disconnect the intake heater and give it couple sniffs of summer air then she fires right up. It's like the fuel is bleeding back and it cant either build the pressure again or suck it up from the tank. LIFT PUMP IS GOOD!!!

But after capping the fuel lines it still cranks long, but found the capping 1,3,and 5 made no difference in running, so that means they are doing nothing.

I'm definetly thinking its injectors! I'm changing them right now, so we'll see what happens!!! :tu:


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