Headgasket Let Go.... Pics
 

First I want to thank BBram and Cshafer for helping when I took the head off to have it O-ringed. if not for there help I would have taken another 3 hrs to get the head off this time around

I had everything off in just over 4 hrs! The worst part was taking the studs out since they were covered in oil and hard to get a hold of.

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Twins still on
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more pics
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table of parts:argh:
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DAMN IAN !!! hope you know where all them parts go back in there .. :D

Looks like you guys did an awesome job

DM

haha thanks! it was pretty straight forward. it was just about a year ago that I had the head off for O rings when Brian and Cade helped...:argh:

WOW man she really let go huh? I never got to see that mine didnt leak any oil or coolant. Are you gonna O-ring the block too?

It didnt blow too bad just the fan made a mess of everything!!! I was going to pull the bumper/rad/IC but we got some ive up here so ive been sliding around and salting:argh:

Sorry to see your truck down with a blown HG... Hopefully all goes well and you'll be back up and running soon...

Thanks!

its been setback after setback with things up here

Ian

Ian, is that a stock exhaust manifold?:w2:

lol ian that looks really familar! i still ahvent goten mine back together yet though =(

i hear you in that dept. but she`ll purr again. now about that front license plate you got ... cough husqvarna... :poak:

Husqvarna.... ya might as well buy a Poulan!!:wacko::tttt:

What was the cause? To much fuel? Boost Spike?

nope, its a HTT 3 piece manifold

Failed gasket, not quite sure why... could just be a bad part or I didnt have enough pressure on the gasket itself.... When we do the head this time were going to drop the O-rings protrusion 0.005 to get a little more clamping on the gasket.

or a craftsman

more pics from today:

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That doesnt look like my kind of fun....good on ya tackling a job like that...:up: Good thing im not there helping...we'd still be talking about how to do it lol lol

Geez!!! :w2:

You sure did tear the nose of that truck of yours!!! I thought you blew the head gasket???

Oh as for you radiator... You might want my Crankcase Vent bomb to fix that problem...:poak:
Crankcase Vent

I want to do a cam if the head checks out OK, plus this way I can get to the motor to clean it.

I took the canister off last year and ran a tube straight down but It was too late, Ill have to clean the radiator. I didnt realize how bad it was until I pulled it!!

I would definitely recommend a cam now if you ever considered it. It's an easy job from this point out.

Dave

yes the crankcase vent mod is a good un


Stock breather issues...
The main issue with OEM crankcase vent is it is nothing more than a piece of hose mounted to the front of the gear case. The piece of hose elbows over the case and points down towards the ground. There are two versions of this crankcase. One involves a drip bottle mounted on the end of the hose and the other does not.

A Technical Service Bulleting (TSB) was released on this issue as well: TSB (09-002-02 Crankcase Breather Overflow). This bulletin warns of potential of extreme loss of oil from a truck descending at to steep of a slope while off-roading. During this loss of oil, oil also has been known to scatter all over the engine and radiator. This scattering of oil causes the collection of dust and dirt in the face of the radiator. This collection causes overheating issues for your truck.

Even in with normal use, the cases that include a breather bottle, can emit enough oil vapors make the radiator gunky with the collection dirt and dust.

Another TSB on this issue is: TSB 09-02-00 (A Heavy Oil Or Fuel-Like Odor Coming From the Diesel Engine Compartment). This bulletin was written about the foul heavy oil smell after a oil change. Although it is normal for some brand of oils to have this heavy smell anyway.

My own personal fix…
To fix this issue, I personally created my own venting system for 2nd generation Cummins’ engines. Since my design I have never lost any oil while off-roading.

When I first started creating my vent, I looked at one main simple principal. If the front of the truck is facing down hill, then the vent pipe end needs to be higher than the oil level at any angle. I did this by running the pipe up and over the top of the engine. Then I ran it back down the back side of the engine. So now, no matter how steep the hill, the end of the vent pipe will be higher.

Since the end of the pipe is under the truck by the transmission, there are no problems with cooling or radiator plugging. The heavy oil smell is also gone since the pipe is now under the truck.

I do not use rubber hose in my creation. Rubber heater hose will eventually break down and collapse. This will cause a build up of crankcase pressure and start oil leakage around seals, which is not a good thing!

One other thing to be aware of if creating your own is the length of the vent. If the vent pipe is to long, it might start freezing the water vapor in the hose/pipe before it exits the pipe. This can once again cause problems with crankcase pressure

another f'n fantastic weekend, sat worked 12 hrs on a job that was supposed to take 4, and today.....

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11 days to IRP.... the green rig wont make it this year:argh:

Dang dude that hurts to look at after reading all of this.

U blew another headgasket?

you got it bud!

thought you o-ringed and studded it?

Damn that hurts to look at:ouch:

did you do your retorque before slinging it to it?

damn man wtf........maybe you need to go back to a single?

stupid question time...

if you are blowing HG's what boost are you running in these twins? anything over 52 without studs and this will continue to be an issue. give one of the sponsors a call for ARP studs (or equal) and a new (better) HG.

Just my thoughts.

He has Studs and O-Rings :humm:

NOT again...you poor bastard !

By now, you should be able to swap that headgasket with your eyes closed.

maybe he needs to just weld his head on for good

Ian this sucks so bad to hear. If it makes you feel any better I just got mine back from having the billet output done and shelled out for a complete rebuild on my 1 1/2 year old tranny :(:argh: I cant wait till you finally have it back up and running. The 24v guys seem to be coming back along now, at least you will be towards the top of it when your done.

studded
O-ringed
stock 24V gasket
wire NOT tapped... the box was actually turned off

Id say 40lbs it let go

Im guessing its because I didnt take the studs to 140 like I did the first time around with the truck (single HTT 66)

I had a quite a few heat cycles and 2 re-torques on it... it was going good all morning, I wasnt getting into it hard either... just rolled into it to pass a couple people and KABOOM:ouch: My initial thought was another innercooler boot.... Once I saw the exhaust I knew I was F'd

Im at just over 3 hrs to tear down and remove the head:yeah: All this on the way home from spending 3k on a engagement ring:argh:

Were the nuts still moving on the last torque ?

nope

I would contact PDW for a marine gasket to go with those o-rings. When you hold it side by side with a stock gasket you will see what I mean :D

I've been putting nearly 60psi through it for almost 2 years now and its doing great.

Also when you get it apart check where the gasket blew out and see if there is anything wrong with your o-ring in that location (protrusion, knick, gap in ring etc) and if all seems good there, get the ole straight edge out and check your block to be sure its perfectly flat.

O-rings held up

what started this whole mess was a Marine +.010,
block is straight, I took a straight gauge block and a .001 shim to find a low spot but couldn't.

talking with Darryl and EEP we might just pull the motor and fire-ring to fix the problem for good.

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Damn Ian !

Glad to Hear EEP helping ya