High Idle
 

I went to the dealer today and had my high idle set. $84 But i was reading more about it and it says
intake manifold temp must be inder 32 degrees
coolant temp under 140
I guess what i am asking about is there any way to fool the intake manifold temp. So i could get heat faster when the temp is below 140.

Well thats the part that sucks you have to meet all the permissives for it to kick in. I would think there would be a way to fool it - but arent smart enough to know how.

Just sit tight, I'm working on that :)

All I need to find are the connectors for the IAT and ECT to finish the project.

I've got my wiring diagram worked up to where you can select high idle or 3 cyl shutdown at any temp as long as the other parameters are met.

im just waiting for one of the brand name companies to come out with a plug in box that just plugs into the APPS and is a high idle controller

The other kicker is that if you have if plugged in at all for a while before you start it up, the high idle doesn't come on.

At least on mine it doesn't. So that leaves me with the stick in throttle option....

I have one - a local guy used to make them for the local Cummins shop - Id hook you up but he doesnt make them anymore.

These guys have them but they are stupid expensive for what you get: http://www.dieselservices.com/html/d...e_ram_p137.cfm

Why muck with the electricals? Just install an exhaust brake. Idle all day with it engaged.

Or an ESPAR or Webasto heater.

Good call on the exhaust brake - much better than the high idle since they actually put a load on the engine.

But again, not cheap and not exactly good on autos.

some guys on DTR were building them last year.

i want a one that comes ready to plug and play tho, those guys had to go in and tap a few of the APPS wires, and i dont like that, i want a male-female type plug that goes inline on the APPS

DR. Evil, sure but for $1300 or so you get the high idle AND a break. Otherwise you spend $500 + to just get heat and potential of electrical error.

It would work with an auto if you put it in neutral? I thought this was the case but maybe not.

I want the cable type high idle myself so I can set it at what ever RPM's I need at the time. I just haven't figure out how to route it through the firewall so it lines up with the throttle controls without kinks in it.

Why not just drill a hole in the bracket above the go pedal? Ive started this on my 12V - need to find a 1/4" eye bolt. Ive got a cable as well. IMO, theres no real need to go right through the firewall.

Yes it would work for warmup (you could probably let if run all day if you had an exhaust brake) but if you want to actully use the exhaust brake to slow the truck its hard on the input shaft (they recomment a billet input shaft with an Exhaust Brake) as well ther is some kind of lockup controller required.

be nice if there was some way to trick the cruise control and just set rpm with that.

We aint that smart

The newer trucks do this, don't they.

Yes they do...

I have the wiring drawn up but I cant find connectors for the IAT and ECT sensors. Other than the connectors, radio shack has all the parts needed

Yeah here is the tough one... IAT sensor...

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...n/DSCF2443.jpg

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...n/DSCF2444.jpg

I've been looking for the connectors... I know someone makes it...

But what BossHogg is trying to do is create a fooler box that fools the ECU to thinking the truck is cold (<140*F) and IAT (<32*F) and cause the high idle software to come on.

What I do know that if you unplug your IAT lead and put a 65K resistor in it (Blue, green, orange, gold) it will kick the 3-cyl high idle. With a exhaust brake it wil drive the Pyro as high as 800*F-850*F right now!

Now that will keep your truck warm no matter what! :w2:

In my field of work I respond to may fire calls sometimes with my own truck. Lot of times I got to leave it idling with the beacon lights running but that worries me about gumming up the valves... The fooler box would be worth it... :yeah:

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Yea I do but my pyro sits at 250*F maybe 300*F...
With just high idle and a exhaust brake I get about 500-650*F in pyro...
With 3 cylinder idle and exhaust brake I get about 800-850*F in pyro...

Personally I would like to keep it above 400*F knowing that most all oils have a flash point about 400*F...:w2: So high idle and a jake would do it...

I like that Idea.:U:

I found an inexpensive extension IAT cable w/connectors from this Pontiac site http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_p...=184&catid=108
I think it was less than 15 bux. I did this to move the IAT into the air feed horn above the grids. I have truer air temp readings and serviceability is very easy now. Tapping the aluminium air horn was very easy.

William

This High Idler will save you lots of money. Just "dial-up" the RPM you want.
This is from the TDR.

William

Cool idea and thanks for the info. Now what the hell does it mean. I'm sure everybody else on here will look at it and have it all mapped out on the spot but I'm scratchin my head. I wanna do this if I can find out what goes where.

Uncle B.
The circuit is very simple (Radio-Shack stuff) the double pull double pole toggle activates the relay and allows the input DC resistance of the APPS to be modified by the pot. The ECM thinks you have your foot on the accelerator holding it at a set RPM level. The LED activates to let you know you have it engaged. Splicing into the APPS leads can be done in a clean fashion with heat-shrink tubing.

This package looks factory, boxed correctly and I think this is what some guys are charging $500 bux for:deal:

William

Any pictures to help out here. Or maybe you could just put a starter kit together and post it for sale in the "Basement Enterprises" section of the site. Make a few dollars off your efforts.

Sorry...my explanation was without coffee...I'm on the west coast.
The single toggle switch activates the double-pull double-throw relay. and places the dial-up resistance in-line to the ECM.

Uncle B...I wish I had time to provide the service but, I work many hours and I wouldn't be able to do this correctly if requests came to me. It is so very simple to do and I share this with fellow CTD 2nd Gen owners because some of what I've seen in the past regarding High-Idle mods are way over priced for what you get.

BTW...Mike...Mopar1973....good to see you here....I've followed your threads else where. I'm 2 cycle adding all the time now and my trip to Utah and Montana really proved your findings to me. Nice work old man!

William

Well I got more update to my web pages concerning the high idle now...
http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/2002%2.../high-idle.htm

Here is thew schematic for the high idle function...

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/2002%2...e%20fooler.gif

I'm really curious about what BossHogg will build for his version...:w2:

Mike, I like your's better then mine due to simplicity. I assume you have this installed now....how does it perform?

William

I've been involved with similar on both the TDR and the DTR. Here's a link to the DTR thread where we made the most progress: http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d...d.php?t=123156.

I ended up dropping out of the discussions after getting an exhaust brake. Those guys carried it through and got it to work though.

Sorry not yet... I've done all the raw testing and was waiting for the plugs to be found. Now I found a cable with the plugs I can oder it and start building the final version...

It sucks to unplug the IAT senosr and hook in my tester setup (a single resistor) but it works great... :w2:

Mike...I know the Christmas Holidays are upon us but, did you get a chance to wire up your mod yet?

William

After New Years I'm ordering the parts...:pca1:

Hang in there... I need it really bad here...

Like today I was out playing mith my snowmobile and the truck sat for about 4 hours but the coolant temp was below 140*F but the IAT temp was 112*F... DARN!!! :map: