Diesel Bombers

Diesel Bombers (https://www.dieselbombers.com/)
-   24 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 98.5-02 (https://www.dieselbombers.com/24-valve-2nd-gen-dodge-cummins-98-5-02/)
-   -   12valve or 24valve, what do you prefer? (https://www.dieselbombers.com/24-valve-2nd-gen-dodge-cummins-98-5-02/59500-12valve-24valve-what-do-you-prefer.html)

Chevy355mark 09-30-2010 02:41 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by 01ctd (Post 629403)
Heres the list of thing you should check or ask.

I had a 97 regular cab w/ 5speed:

KDP - leaking front timing cover
Solenoid cutoff fuse - fuse inside cab probably blown - mine keeps blowing
fuel plate or torque plate - did he add one or not - i added #10 plate which fried the clutch
Clutch - fried from #10 torque plate
lift pump - mine went out @ 200K.
exhaust manifold crack - check the block exhaust 1 and 2 for crack - mine did
check rear axle leak - mine did
check the front panhard bar - replaced mine few time - test drive it
check for fuel line rust - mine had a hole, stranded middle of nowhere bcuz of it
brake line rust - mine broke
I don't think they have cabin filter - check blower fan fuse - inside blower housing
Front unit bearing replaced mine @ 220K
Universal joints - replaced mine @ 160K
------
With all this problem to list, still I really like the truck.... missed her.

thanks alot, ill go over all that tomorrow. the guy called me back and said he needs it gone and that hel take 5300, i got a few pics of it, the paint and body is a little rougher then i expected, but it has some pretty fancy lookin wheels that i wasnt expecting to see. heres a few pics
Attachment 44967
Attachment 44968
right now im in love with this truck, its just what i was looking for, hopefully its in good enough shape and itl be worth the drive and the money.

casper83 09-30-2010 09:47 PM

The 24 valve is a scam I had a friend that happened to last year with the same divorce story

Chevy355mark 09-30-2010 09:51 PM

yea i know it has to be. ill be purchasing the single cab posted above tomorrow morning if it all checks out.

brian10 09-30-2010 10:18 PM

there is way of by passing the lift pump. i ran a fass fuel system that completely by passes the lift pump. completly not in use. i have the 2 big fuel filter canisters n that is plenty enough. jus add a fuel presure gauge n ull b good. im sittin at 16psi on fuel. if u moniter ur fuel pressure ull neva burn up ur injection pump m u dont have 2 worry about the lift pump anymore. so u can make the 24 valve more reliable basically comes down 2 if u want straight mechanical or more electronics in ur motor

Chevy355mark 10-02-2010 12:02 AM

well i bought the truck today, got it for 5100 bucks. the exhaust manifold isnt cracked, all the u-joints and ball joints are tight, it has a new pitman arm since the lift kit was just installed, the turbo has no play in the compressor wheel no rust in the brake lines or fuel lines at all. the truck drives strait down the road but the driver side sits 1" taller in the front, i thought the frame was bent but the distance between the axle and frame is 1" more on the high side like one spring is just stiffer, the bumper isnt strait so it could have been in a collision, who knows, doesnt really matter, its a pretty rough lookin truck, just a really good runner.

it runs great, pretty disapointed in its highway performance tho, 81mph is all she can do, it seems like it has some really tall gears in it, ill check them in the morning. i got 15mpg driving it 3 hours back pretty much riding it just a hair from the floor the whole way at 75mph which is fairly impressive in my book, i bet itl do better around town. i dont know whats up with its state of tune, it doesnt really smoke at all, which explains the fact that the clutch feels solid, doesnt shudder any as you let it out and it holds solid in overdrive. it has a boost and egt guage too. the oil leek is pretty excessive, a/c blows ice cold but it moves very little air and the longer you run it the weaker the fan gets. overall i think i got a real solid truck for the money, tomorrow ill do something about making it smoke a little and deal with the a/c.

Dr. Evil 10-02-2010 12:31 AM

Congrats...looks good...

wishlist 10-02-2010 08:52 PM

Same lady emailed me about a truck and it is a TOTAL scam.
Also had someone want me to ship my truck to Australia..HA what a joke

01ctd 10-04-2010 09:59 AM

you need a torque plate to bump the torque to 650lb-ft plus. that truck might have 4.10 gears which perfect for towing heavy load but not too will with mileage. Remember if you wanna play you will pay.

lechon 12-06-2010 04:17 PM

pumps
 

Originally Posted by Paco98 (Post 627738)
go with the 24V and if the vp44 pump goes out just P-pump it, and have the best of both worlds a 24v with the p-pump on it that is my plan when mine goes out anyway.:tu:


hi everyone,

i'm totally new in this forum and new diesel trucks..what is a p-pump?

sorry to hijack this thread...

my '00 24v is hard starting and i was told by a local shop mechanic that it needs a new VP44 pump. i recently replaced the filter, battery and starter and starting has improved but not at the first try.
i bought it used when it had 296K and it now has around 312K miles. it runs very strong and solid and my only concern is whenever i have to start it. if it sits for around 15 minutes or longer after use, it takes longer to restart.

any advice would be highly appreciated!

thank you!

Chevy355mark 12-06-2010 11:41 PM


Originally Posted by lechon (Post 662553)
hi everyone,

i'm totally new in this forum and new diesel trucks..what is a p-pump?

sorry to hijack this thread...

my '00 24v is hard starting and i was told by a local shop mechanic that it needs a new VP44 pump. i recently replaced the filter, battery and starter and starting has improved but not at the first try.
i bought it used when it had 296K and it now has around 312K miles. it runs very strong and solid and my only concern is whenever i have to start it. if it sits for around 15 minutes or longer after use, it takes longer to restart.

any advice would be highly appreciated!

thank you!

if i remember correctly its my thread so i give you permission to hijack lol.

the p-pump is the pump that came on 94-98 12 valve cummins, its the p7100, its simple and primitive, making the motor much like a generator or tractor motor but insanely reliable, its what makes these truck run for a million miles with no problems. the vp44 is a problematic pump, the main reason they fail is because the lift pump fails(the pump that feeds the vp44 injection pump). when you replace the injection pump also replace the lift pump with an aftermarket unit, just hit ebay and search and youl see there are 2 main companies that sell kits for your truck. it doesn't really make the vp44 as reliable as it should be but it makes it alot better, i wouldn't bother going back to a p-pump, alot of work for nothing. the vp44 is honestly a better setup aside from its huge lack of reliability, youv got a much more modern ecm controlled pump compared to the p7100 which is completely mechanical with fixed timing. when it comes to your average lightly modified, low horsepower daily driver the vp44 is better, it just sucks that its not reliable. just put a good lift pump on it and hope for the best, youl get another 100 or 200,000 miles before it breaks again, all trucks have their problems, unfortunately yours cost over 1000 bucks every time it fails.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:53 AM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands