High Idle ?'s
 

I have been hearing about the high idle for the 24v's and from what I understand it is controlled through the ECM. But my question is how do you program it in? have heard can be done with smartys or the dealer. I have a buddy that owns his own shop and I belive he has the DRB II or what ever the dodge scan tool/ computer is (cant remember what its called) So was going to check with him on programming it in to mine. My next questions is those who have it do you like the high idle and the 3cyl warm up or do you not. And also does it only do it when the temp is below a certain temp? My truck that I drive for deliveries is a 08 KW with a cummins and does that you start it up and after awhile it idles up on it own (when the ambient temp is below a certain temp) very nice for it. Thanks in advance for any input guys. :c:

As a warning on doing any re-flash to your truck by the dealer. Sometimes this process does some bad things to your truck. Been several cases of guys losin fuel mileage after having this done along with several other problems. Not just the re-flash for the high idle but any of them. For most it turns out just like it's supposed to but it's a gamble and if it goes wrong it's not reversible. They don't know why this happens, it just does.

Here's a thread on this with some good info: https://www.dieselbombers.com/dodge-...l-warm-up.html

also you can check this out by the mopar man https://www.dieselbombers.com/24-val...nder-idle.html

Thanks guys im seeing all of the high idle stuff surface here now thanks for the help though. It sounds like finding a smarty or ugh :argh: buyin one I want one but not in the budget right now. :dang:

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BTW no body around southern CO. that has a smarty I could use for a few min :w2:

Here is a thread that I posted to a while ago:


Alright, here it is!! I used resistors to set my RPM where I wanted it, more resistance will be less RPM, less resistance more RPM. You could put a rheostat in beside your switch, and run a wire from the relay, to the rheostat, then back to the other two wires. Yes, it is necessary to have 2 wires there.
I also bought the proper wire connectors, pins, and insulators to plug into the engine harness and APPS.

:redx:

This is on a 2001 Dodge, should work for anything with an APPS.

Thanks RA this seems from what im following by the schematic that this is something that is wired in and that the ecm does not need to be flashed? Thats pretty cool set up I love doing automotive electrical work and would really enjoy to build this high idle set up pretty cool stuff thanks RA for the schematic :tu:

No problem at all. I love this set up so much. I have replaced the resistors with a potentiometer for infinite adjust ability. I also had my remote starter installed so the Auxiliary function applies power to the switched side of the relays, enabling it! I start the truck and let it run for 2 or 3 minutes, then hit the Aux on the remote, and since I have the potentiometer adjusted to 1200RPM, warm up is accelerated. Kind of a must, as it is -30 Celsius here.

:humm: now ya really got me thinkin/excited about this venture remote start with high idle too :yeah: had been thinking of a remote start setup too for my truck. Man so much to do so little $$$$:dang::argh: The high idle set up would be no prob for now have the wire, resistor and even a few pots lyin around so needin to get to work on that anyways.
So the pot would need to be around a 0-maybe 280k somewhere in that range ?

I am using a 0 to 500K Pot, as it's sweep will do the entire RPM range and beyond. 0 to 280 will not let you idle less than the 1250 range. More voltage is less operator demand to the ECM. When my engine is at idle, I have the full 500k Ohms of resistance.
Which 2 of the 3 wires to use on the Pot will be determined of which way you want higher and lower RPM's, clockwise, or counter-clockwise.
I also used Deutsch electrical connectors and pins in my circuit. It can be removed at anytime without trace. Also makes for a very clean install, and of course won't damage the factory harness.

Oh yea ok the 0-500k does sound right cool thinkin if i can get some connectors ordered im going to start work on it. And i like the connector idea a lot cleaner setup instead of scotch locks or butt connectors or something like that:nope: Again thanks RA