A Documented Rebuild?
 

Anybody interested in a documented rebuild, I have a 01 3500 that had a oil pump lock up so I will be going throught the entire engine. If there is enough intrest I will provide some pictures and posts of the progress. It will basiclly be a stock rebuilt and I hope the damage is not to bad in the bottom end. This is my first Diesel rebuild.

Absolutly.....take lotsa pics and post em up daily with good verbage to explain it all man:U:

whitmore; ya need more than verbs to communicate... add afew nouns to get some broken english going on atleast that way we know what your hammering on :D

Of course, I plan on doing as much of my own engine as I can. So I wanna see, oh make sure you mention exactly what curse words made the bolts break free. :U:

I think it'd be pretty awesome :U:

OK than let the fun begin. first of all what are the limits for posting pictures? I might have to use a photo hosting service if I run out of attachment space. The Project: I purchased the truck off of craigslist for the messily amount of $1850, It's a 2001 3500 6-speed 1 ton with 236000 miles. its a dually of coarse and it had been jack knifed so the bed and portion of the cab is damaged. the seller provided the replacement parts to repair the cab. Here is my reasoning for doing this. I purchased a 04 GMC Dmax crewcab a couple of years ago and I really haven't been happy with it. for one its black hard to keep clean in my neck of the woods, second if you don't have air running through the grille the A/C doesn't cool very well, and third it's not a manual (I'm a stick man). Did I forgot to mention it goes into limp mode when you need it the most like on the interstate in 5:00 traffic.:booo:I intend on rebuilding the motor in the Dodge to get me by so I can sell the max. Now I know what your going to say, Why don't you just buy a Dodge ready to go because you'll end up investing the same amount of money and time with this project. And you are probably right, But at least I'll know what I have.
*On to the project. I did a little searching online and found a 2001 Dodge Ram service manual in pdf format. you might be able to find one for other years as well. It was from one of those file hosting sites. I have already removed the bed, and all the accessories from the motor. non of it to difficult, the hardest wrenching was the removing the fan from the hub those are left handed treads and I'd already removed the belt but I managed to get a large pipe wrench on the fan belt drive(The service manual calls for using a screwdriver to catch the 10mm bolt heads on the fan belt pulley). the motor is ready to pull. But I don't have my engine stand yet. Theres a guy in Pilot Point Texas that make these monster Cummins stands It's call the beast, anyhoo I'm wanting for him to get the latest run of these finished. so I'll be in limbo until I get that. I will also use the stand for another project that's on the back burner, a 71 Chevelle Cummins. Well on the the current project. The Dodge I bought did not run and the seller said its locked up. But after I got it home I installed some batteries the fired it up only problem no oil pressure. I found later that the oil pump had siezed because it ingested a little piece of metal, Locked the pump and broke the idler gear. There was the other half of the piece of metal right at the inlet of the pump that didn't get ingested. actually the pump may have sheared the little piece of metal in half and left the other half lying right at the inlet of the pump on the block side. I'll post some pics soon of the piece of metal in question and maybe someone may recognize it. That is all for now I Will keep you posted on updates.

I'm from Ponder, Tx close to Pilot Point/Aubrey :U:

Some pics of Project
 

The first pic is the current state of progress. The next 5 are the pictures of the truck.
Following are pictures of the metal that locked the pump up, The pump(notice the crack in the outter section. Thats where the metal lodged, and the idler gear which broke off after the pump locked.
The engine is ready to pull, I should have my stand this weekend. One reminder Don't ever try to mount a Cummins 5.9 on a one of those 2 ton chinese stands IT WILL NOT HOLD!:ohno:
Oh and by the way the half of the piece of metal in question is about 1/4"x1/8" and its aluminum. Why didn't the pickup screen catch it. And it also appears the someone has been in the bottom end as there was some ford blue rtv all around the oil pan gasket. hmm interesting?:humm:

the blue RTV was probably just a previous owner fixing an oil leak around the pan...i dont ive seen one second gen that doesnt leak around the pan gasket, there is probably one out there but i aint seen it yet


Keep up the good work of the rebuild and keep us posted:pca1:

Update on teardown
 

OK boys and girls we have completed the tear down of the 01 Cummins. Got the engine stand in last night and pulled the motor today.
First of all It appears that someone had run this engine without oil, also they also tried to put a band aid on as the rod bearings had been replaced, Most of them look new to very little wear. Rod #5 spun. Main bearings 3,4,5 spun. There was quite a bit of metal shavings beteen main cap 5 and 6. One of the cam bearings and jorunal was in bad shape as well.
Pistons look decent showing signs of normal wear with a few scuff marks on 2 probably from all the metal circulating in the oil but will have to clean them up before I can tell. I will drop the block, crank, head, and pistons off to my local machine shop that does diesels for evaluation. I hoping the crank can be cleaned up, Their is one piston that has just the slightest hint of play in the wrist pin but I'll let Farris make the cal on that. Cam will need to be replaced. over all the process went rather well without any major snags. This vehicle hasn't been on the road since 2006 which means it had only seen 5 years of service.
I will get back with more details covering the rebuild after the machine shop assesses the damage. Oh almost forgot the cylinder bores look really good and still show signs of the cross hatch pattern and I don't think there's a ridge,just some carbon buildup.

Nice,keep us posted!:c:

Rebuild update
 

OK not much else going on just waiting for the machine shop. So far the bores checked out good and the piston and rods are OK, Waiting for them to vat the block to evaluate the mains.
The crankshaft had to be sent to Wichita falls to have it turned. I purchased a complete Fel Pro rebuild gasket set off of fleabay for 250, not bad considering rockauto wanted almost 600. Found a new Cummins camshaft from the same place for 220 wow Cummins wants about a 1000.
I will go ahead and replace the seals in the vacuum/power steering pump while it's out and accessable.

I have been cleaning parts with a power washer, and the rusty cast parts I cleaned using the electrolytic method. I will clean ever part prep and paint, I thinking a nice fire truck red to complement the truck.

The link for that process.
Rust Removal by Electrolysis

I use a 55 gal metal drum cut in half for the anode/container creates a lot of surface area and works well with a standared battery charger.

OK a few questions, When adding a fuel pump do you remove the original lift pump on the block? I have a procomp 130-140 gph 18 psi pump I have been wanting to try out along with a homemade filter housing for the CAT spin on 2 micron fuel filter. I currently run one of these with my Dmax. I also will install a Asmoil Bypass filter system. the one on my Dmax works very well. I also made a custom adapter to use the amsoil bypass filter for my wife's jetta tdi.

The turbo needs replacing, so I'll be looking for a good used one , a new one isn't in the budget right now but If I can find a good used one that doesn't have too much side play I'll go that route.

I'm guesstimating about 1500 for the engine build. may be a little more with the turbo.

Should I buy a new oil pump for 89 +shipping or a used one for 24. from a 80,000 mile truck. I don't think these are high wear items and if it checks out with the factory tolerances I think It would be OK, What do you think?

Also do you have to replace the tappets with a new cam, Because I'm reading a lot of People use a new cam with the old tappet lifters? When building gassers I always replace the lifters with a new cam, but with diesels I'm not sure.

keep it coming:pca1:

I would buy a new oil pump,as for the lifters I would also buy new.These I consider wear items to me.I seen to many motors go south because someone reused a oil pump that worked on a old motor meaning many miles,but not to well on a new one because of the tighter clearances. Dont go cheap now.As for a turbo I have a HY35 off my 01 that has 74,000 on the turbo when I took it off the truck.

well no one said anything about the tappets... some places online sell resurfaced tappets with the new cams... just take the old ones off and have the machine shop take the mill to them and take off just afew thoundths and polish them up so they dont scuff your cam... i cant believe cummins wanted 1000 bucks for a new cam. the "big stick" is 100% new for under 500

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and mobetter; thanks a mil for the link to the electrolysis cleaning. i had heard about it from a friend in high school about 2 1/2 years ago, but we had no idea where to get the washing soda

Thanks for starting this thread...

Latest progress
 

Machine shop called and the crankshaft successfully turned to .010, The block has been vatted and they are going to check the mains and deglaze the cylinder bores. They must really use some good paint from the factory because even after the vat most of the paint is still intact. The block shows no sign of crackage in the 53 block area so I think this one may be OK. Actually somewhere I heard that the 53 block affected less than 10% of all production, and this ones made 236k without an issue so fingers crossed. To clear up earlier post the camshaft from Cummins stealer is $559 not $1000, although I have a source to pick up a new one for $220, but I'm also thinking about this local used one from a low mileage wrecked truck for $80. I might have it mic'ed and if its with in tolerance I could go that way. Picked up a new cummins thermostat form flea-bay for $20 shipped Stealership wanted $33. Now I'm trying to find out what the part number it is for the so called steel piston cooling nozzles used in the marine version, I have my local Cummins dealer checking on that on but if some one here knows please send that info this way. I hope to get everything back from the the shop this week so I can start prepping the block. That's all for now Cheers!

Dont skimp on the thermostat, lots of them go bad and the rubber ends up jammed in the middle of it.

As far as the cam goes, I would seriously consider getting one with a lift pump lobe on it from an aftermarket supplier and running the lift pump off that. MUCH more reliable and trouble-free.

Rebuild update
 

Sorry about the update delay, But I've made a career out of building my house and had to get that back on schedule, Plus had a my back up truck go down the Trans Shelled so I had put my Baby (02 Camaro SS) out in the cold to have access to my lift. My cummins rebuild is taking place at my ex neighbors shop. He has really been generous allowing me to occupy his space for this.

As far as the update, I was unable to find the metal piston cooling nozzles so I purchased the plastic ones for .46 each. the original block which is a 53 casting was going to need an align bore and that was going to cost $350 so I found a 56 casting block with a cam and oil pump for about $600 it was a low mileage under 50k wrecked truck that was dismantled. the oil pump was well within tolerance as was the camshaft. I had my machine shop polish the tappets. and although the 53 block didn't have the infamous crack I decided to go with the newer block. So I have a clean 53 Block if anyone should need one
The crankshaft turned .010 .010 but had to return it to my machine shop because the machine shop they farmed it out to chucked the crank on the journal area that the front seal rides and it left some light marks where the seal seats. the crank was to large for my machine shop (Farris Racing Engines Azle TX) to turn. that took 2 weeks, the other machine shop was in Wichita falls. so I got everthing back and its time to start assembling.
I chased all the threads in the block and power washed it. I then air dried it with compressed air. I installed the new piston cooling nozzles which i lightly seated with a transfer punch of the same diameter. I set the main bearings in place applied a thin layer of assembly grease and lowered the just cleaned crankshaft in place using a engine host and strap. I used painters tape to protect the journals from the lifting strap. I installed the main caps and torqued to specs and in sequence in three steps 37-45-66 ft/lbs and then additional 90 degrees using a calibrated torque wrench, and torque angle guage.
I then cleaned the piston assemblies and installed the piston rings starting with the oil ring followed by the 2 compression rings keeping the ring gaps 120 degrees apart. My rings have a small dimple which should face up. I dunked the piston in a coffee can with 1 qt. of rotella and installed the bearing on the rod. I installed the pistons with the aid of a ring compressor, Installed the cap bearing, and torqued to specs 22-44-57 ft/lbs. Oh and I did lube the bearings before assembly.

I prepped the block deck by wiping the mating surface with several alcohol wipes to remove any oil. I Placed the head gasket and lowered the cleaned head using a engine hoist. I reused the head bolts after checking that the length was within tolerance. I lightly oiled the threads and installed the head bolts followed by torquing to specs. 59-77-77 plus 90 degrees and I mark each bolt. sorry about not getting any pictures of the head.

I cleaned the block and masked block and painted. I then installed the gear housing, oil pump, and rear seal housing. I used thread locker on all bolts inside the gear housing. Also I like to use pematex gasket sealer on gaskets like the rear seal housing and the timing gear housing. its just my preference I have heard a lot of people talk about problems with oil leaks on these year models.

If this is too detailed let me know and I'll be more brief with my descriptions.

That it for now, give me some feedback.

Oh also does anyone know what covers the manual fuel pump opening. its been over three months and I forgot to take pictures as I was disassembling.

A few more pics
 

Here is fa few more pics of the progress

does the lift pump bracket cover the manual fuel pump area?
Also my # 5 injection tube seems to interfer with the rear lift bracket, does the line go in front or behind the bracket.
one last question, does the 01 use a speed sensor on the rear drivers side of the block or is it just blocked off?

there is an issue about the above quote. these cranks are chrome or electro plated to make'm last longer. Not a lot of ppl know about that.

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the lift pump ?

The nimber 5 line goes in front of the pick bracket.

and the rear drivers side is the crank sensor.

looks like your doing it too it and thumbs up on your explanation and pictures job well done in my opinion so far :yeah:

job well done. thanks for the pics

Waiting for a couple of items
 

Almost ready to install the motor, waiting on replacement fan clutch hub bearing, ordered from motion industries it's a NTN brand part #DF0766LLUACS32 they charged me $69, cummins wanted around $140 and the dodge stealer want $226 this is just for the bearing. While I'm waiting I decided to fab up a swanker clone intake have the flange made from 1/2 steel and I have 2 90. 3" fittings on the way. Also I fabracated a oil cooler bypass plate to tie into a ext cooler I have, a bypass oil filter adaptor plate and a cat fuel filter adaptor plate. I'll post some pics of these soon since my iPhone won't let me post my saved pictures.
Almost forgot I have to get a Hx-35 rebuild kit before I can fire this dude up.
Hope everyone has a good one!

mo pictures
 

Here are the latest pics. the gray intake is the swanker intake the flange plate is the start of my swanker clone.

1 week before lift off
 

I'm almost finished. I have installed the rocker arms, pushrods, and the crossheads (the saddle that sits on top of 2 valves) Does it matter which way these are installed. The manual doesn't specify. there is a mark on the side that's enlongated. I installed them with the mark towards the drivers side.
The turbos installed, adjusted the valve lash, and installed the valve cover.
installed the heater grid delete plate and swanker clone inlet. filled the crankcase with rotella and filled and installed the wix oil filter. the only items I'm waiting on are the an-10 fittings, and ext oil cooler.

I'll let you know the starting results this week.

Great job:tu:! I would like to do a diesel rebuild, just starting to really learn about them.

Just wondering, is that paint any kind of special red?

Found the loose gnd wire, it ties to the lift pump bracket. Got fuel pumping now. 2nd issue, I having problems getting the oil pump primed. I have crank on it for probably 60-90 seconds total maybe more. cranked the motor in 5-10 seconds burst allowing starter to cool in between. I have been told that the oil pump should be packed with vasoline to assist in priming. I finally pulled the oil filter bracket and my homemade oil cooler delete plate. I pluged the small hole on the block (this is tied to the oil pump inlet) and put a vacuum on the larger outlet hole til oil pulled through. Cranked agian and now this babys pissin oil like a big dog. at least 1-1.5 quarts in 5 sec of cranking.
The 30 row external oil cooler I purchased was to large to fit in the area in front of the cooler beside the condenser so I purchase another 19 row unit. Still waiting for it to come in.
I did happen to pick up a nice flat bed for 400 from craigsy. It has two tool boxes and is in very good cond.
Maybe this weekend I'll get this baby fired up.
Any Ideals for a inexpensive DIY single stack?

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the paint I used was dupli color high heat engine paint Red from Oreallys There are two other red colors Ford Red and Chevy Red. the one I used is just Red . and the silver on the exhaust parts is Dupli color Flame proof ceramic paint, suppose to be good up to 1500 f. I have used this paint on a set of headers and when applied to a properly prepared surface, discolored very little and did not burn off. We'll see how well it holds up in this application.

01 cummins rebuilt
 

After a long hiatus, I have got back on the finising the rebuilt. last year while i had the engine up and running there where some issues. mainly the dead pedal. I verified the fuel pressure and it runs at 15 at idle and aboult 12 at wot. After replacing the VP44 which I thought was bad because of the 0216 code, It still has dead pedal issues. and it keeps throwing a p0236 code. after digging around I discovered something about the oil pressure sender and the MAP sensor. when I rebuild the engine I stripped everything from the block. when reassembling I ran across two sensors that looked Identical the oil pressure sender and the Map sender look the same have the same connector and I got these 2 sensor swaped. I swithched them back and now no codes. I havn't takin it for a test drive yet.
Another issue is with the boost pressure. measured at the intake I only get 3-5 psi and it doesn't increase any til I get in the 2000+ rpm range and then i can onlyt get about 10-12 psi. is this normal for a stock cummins.

ur getting 10 - 12 wot at 2000 rpms?

distilled white vinegar works great for rust removing. not sure how long the electrolysis process takes but the vinegar takes 1-3 days depending on the amount of rust, and its cheap