Here's all the info you need for this. https://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-2...fix-guide.html

well i have a 12v that the dowl came out on. it caught the cam gear and found it way throw the housing the fix cost me about 1700 parts and labor and i was lucky it didnt jam between the gears. but thanks for the info gonna head to his house and do a lil checking

Really ?

Couldn't someone with a little bit of skill just gather those items and do it for like 30 $ ?

Which seals are those ? And all i need is a little piece of sheet metal cut into a little egg like shape right ?

Who knows, i'm to poor to buy things any more, all i want is the " Home made " setups

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

" Dieselnerd: I bought a bolt that was about 1/4" longer and used high strength Loctite on the bolt. I made the tab out of a 2" fender washer with a 1/4" hole, had to use a rat tail file to enlarge it slightly to fit the metric bolt. I used a hacksaw to cut the tab to size. I used a new gasket and seal on the cover. I used Permatex spray on both sides of the gasket. The seal was a real pain like Rebel said. Kept going in crooked. I finally bolted the damper back over the seal tool that came with the seal and pressed it in that way. That method pushes it almost all the way in to where it should be. The cover is bolted on but not tightened down. You put the seal installer into the cover to center the hole in the cover over the crank and then tighten the bolts. The service manual is very specific about this. Then you slip a plastic sleeve into the seal to keep it from deforming as it slips over the crankshaft end. You tap the seal with the installer to get it started and then pull out the sleeve. "

Found this on another site, i like it !

The tab is $1 at Cummins. I will let them make it instead of trying to save .24 cents and an hour of time. The seal comes from Cummins as well and is around $40 depending on your pricing. The seal installer comes in the seal and is a breeze to install. I have never had to use the damper or anything special to get the seal on. And you'll need a little locktite and some UltraBlack. Done.

It's easy to over think this stuff. BTW, the stock bolt works just fine with the Cummins tab.

Dave

just left his house he blew the head gasket in the very front, from what it looked like after we cleaned it up. so its getting pulled this weekend and studded and o ringed. And i am gonna tap it while we are waiting on the head to get done

The seal and tab kit from TNT are like $20. It was worth that to me just so that after I had the truck apart I wasn't sittin there tryin to make a tab. It was ready to put back together within minutes, no questions asked.

I would suggest that with the liquid gasket on the cover you let it set for a while to get tacky before you put the cover back into place on the truck. For me anyway it took some movin around to get the cover in the right spot and i jacked up the gasket seal some doin it. If it would have hardened up little first I would have had the problem.

Quick question, semi-hijack:

My instructions from TST say to put the crank seal in with some red threadlocker on the side that goes against the metal front gear cover.
I've read elsewhere that the seal should be installed dry.
Which one is it?

I won't claim to be right but I didn't use anything on the seal. Never even heard of usin threadlock on a seal myself.

seal goes in dry and can be tricky to get it in there.

It's installed dry,it has I film of Teflon on the inside of the seal,and if the cranks not clean you ruin the seal.

And don't bother trying to put the cover back on without a new seal,it will leak.